Absolue d'Osmanthe
Eau de Parfum, Perris Monte Carlo (2016)

If you are looking for a fragrance with a regal dominant sweet floral note of osmanthus with a fresh, vaguely almondy-balsamic-heliotropic performance (at least in the effect produced), vaguely greedy fruity and finally suavely creamy (almost tasty-edible), silky and graceful, you cannot miss out on this irresistible fragrance of extreme elegance. Perris Montecarlo Absolue d’Osmanthe does not follow properly the trend of the super refined and languid winning duo osmanthus/suede supported by green-musky floral notes (a la Byredo Bullion 2012, Parfum d'Empire Osmanthus Interdite 2007, Sentire Suede Osmanthus 2023 or Estée Lauder Paradise Moon 2021) or the example of green musky translucent watery Osmanthus-dominant accords a la Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus 2006; it is actually rather focuses on a creamier and vaguely heliotropic balsamic sweetly spicy version (a version vaguely almondy or simil almondy in vibe, vaguely reminiscent of the great Etro Heliotrope 1989 which is less fruity and more focused on iris and ylang-ylang) of the dominant osmanthus note in order to achieve an impeccable stylistic perfection combined with an irresistible creamy, semi-gourmand, glamor-chic sensuality. Absolue d’Osmanthe Eau de Parfum by Perris Monte Carlo (launched in 2016) is a unisex fruity-floral-ambery-vanillic fragrance built around the precious osmanthus flower. It is a refined perfectly unisex fragrance centered on the osmanthus flower, blending fruity-floral brightness with ambery-woody-vanillic depth plus a tad of spices. This fragrance captures both the juicy, apricot-like facet of osmanthus and its creamier velvety (simil suedish but also powdery) undertones. It highlights the central osmanthus note exalting both its fruity side (reminiscent of apricot-prune) and its more silky, suave leather/suede-facet (by implementing soothing raw materials as labdanum, balsam of Tolu, vanilla and creamy powdery woods). As usual for a Perris Montecarlo's fragrance the high quality of raw materials is undebatable. The opening is bright and uplifting with a burst of luminous osmanthus combined with apricot-prune and a touch of energizing pink pepper. As it evolves, jasmine sambac and balsam of Tolu emerge in all their syrupy creaminess, softening the fruity vaguely acid juiciness into a smooth floral-balsamic heart. The dry-down is warmer and warmer with a velvety embrace of labdanum, vanilla and creamy woods, leaving a resinous, elegant trail where the note of osmanthus still lingers elegantly. Absolue d’Osmanthe is a particular creamy fragrace which is hardly reminiscent of other assumedly really close creations. It vaguely recalls fragrances like the less creamy/balsamic and finally more leathery Hermès Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan (2005), the greener and more leafy-floral The Different Company Osmanthus (2020) or the plummy-peppery but finally less creamy and more leathery Byredo Bullion (2012). Evocatively, this perfume feels like a twilight stroll through an osmanthus garden. As well as the great Etro Heliotrope it is sensual, decadent (in a vaguely victorian vest) and poetic, it’s a fragrance (definitely modern despite its vaguely retró taste) that whispers rather than shouts, a soft, luminous and quietly magnetic waft. Excellent performances, especially duration (hours and hours).

Petal to the Metal

This note is often used in a delicate, fleeting way, as in Hermes's Osmanthe Yunnan which smells like a cup of lightly scented Chinese tea. Absolue d'Osmanthe, however, as the name suggests and particularly in the eau de parfum concentration, is a pedal to the metal, goes to eleven, foghorn of an Osmanthus perfume. Guilin on a high pollen count day. The Osmanthus note is combined with jasmine sambac, sandalwood, vanilla, labdanum and Tolu balsam. It is difficult to determine how these notes stack up in a pyramid as this is a linear perfume–all of the notes are present, all of the time, although Osmanthus is the queen of the show and never once relinquishes her throne. Princess Turandot has nothing on this queen.
Heavily floral and resolutely fruity, Absolue d'Osmanthe strikes me as decidedly feminine and rather perfumey. It definitely smells of apricots. Dried, fresh, confiture d'abricots--they are all there, swirling around with a tea-like jasmine and vanilla, floating in the air, waved on by a fan of carved sandalwood and wrapped in a gorgeous silken robe. The balsam and labdanum add a slightly salty, vegetal note of olives, which is fitting, given that Osmanthus fragrans is also known as “sweet olive” or “tea olive.”
Fruity, floral and strong, Absolue d'Osmanthe Eau de Parfum is the powerhouse of the Far East by way of France. Think Amarige in a cheongsam. At once dense and yet billowy, ancient but modern, oriental and still occidental, this perfume is perfect for the inner empress in all of us.