Aoud Orchid
Mancera (2017)

A sweet and fruity fragrance presented as unisex (but much more suitable for women in my opinion) based on a dominant accord of fruity-tropical notes (with a hint of coconut and a peach as juicy as a ripe mango), synthetic woody resinous notes, a patchouli centerpiece and on a powdery/musky vanilla-finish with a warm enveloping final embrace. It's a simple, well-balanced fragrance, with a fruitiness that has a vaguely banana-like undertone, all quite sweet but not overlwhelmingly sweet and never cloying. Mancera Aoud Orchid was launched in 2016. The nose behind this fragrance is still the tirelessly hyperproductive Pierre Montale. Mancera Aoud Orchid is a a flori-oriental woodsy fragrance with a opulent character. Designed for lovers of exotic depth and rich-sensual warmth, it leans toward the evening and colder seasons-side, though it can be worn confidently year-round by those who embrace its intensity. The opening is an immediate blast of slightly syrupy tropical fruity sweetness, led by a sort of apricot/mango-like synth peachiness and by a luscious coconut note, which blends with the slightly sharp richness of mandarin. This intensely fruity accord is quite bold and gives way to the fragrance's luxuriant floral woody heart. In the mid-phase, the perfume reveals its real protagonists namely orchid and patchouli laced with a deepening floral warmth, gradually introducing a final layer of amber and synth oud. The oud note here isn’t smoky, medicinal or animalic, on the contrary it's smooth, silky and woodsy-musky providing a mysterious oriental twist. As the drydown unfolds, the base becomes silky and resinous, dominated by vanilla, musk and woody resins plus patchouli. The scent turns finally encompassing and darker on creamy vanilla like the aroma of a vanilla/honey-candle with the comfortable "scented" atmosphere enjoyed by candlelights. It lingers for hours, leaving a trail that’s both exotic and comforting. Mancera Aoud Orchid draws definitely strong parallels with Laurent Mazzone Parfums Sensual Orchid 2012 - that is anyway sweeter with a almond's slightly liquorous presence plus a floral bouquet dominating more uniformly - being both kind of exotic flori-oriental, both based on a heavily use of orchid in the heart, accompanied by lush floral notes, both including vanilla in the base and leaning into creamy/gourmand sweetness, though balanced with woods or musk. Mancera Aoud Orchid draws (but in a less strong way) parallels even with the fresher muskier Tom Ford Black Orchid (2006) especially in its opulent structure and dramatic floral-oriental blend. Both fragrances share a dark gourmand floral heart, a lavish use of orchid and patchouli and a velvety drydown. However, Mancera’s take is sweeter and tropical fruitier up top, thanks to the tropical coconut and peach, while Black Orchid veers more into earthy, musky, truffle-laced territory. In conclusion Mancera Aoud Orchid is a silky midnight-like robe whispering tales of forgotten middle oriental palaces where orchids bloom under stars and oud smoke dances through warm, perfumed air. It is definitely a opulent dark scent for dreamers cloaked in mystery but is on another hand even a brighter tropical fragrance with a special sun-drenched fruity opulence.

Fruity punch, bordering on a suntan oil vibe. Everything mixes well, top to bottom. Equal parts of a creamy orchid balanced with sweet, musky-earthy patchouli. One of the better Mancera frags.

Later a mild amber accord, musky droplets, and creamy vanilla. Overall, pretty nice. Leans towards feminine.