Beyond Rose
Clinique (2014)

Clinique Beyond Rose is an accessible yet fine-tuned and expertly blended rose oud, where the oud doesn't command but plays a supporting role (for once, as I tend to avoid the bombastic oud notes that have saturated the market in the past eight or so years, screechy clodhoppers that demand attention with near hostility). I felt like once I had Beyond Rose in my possession, there wasn't much need for another rose oud. The funny thing is: according to the note pyramid, there is no oud, so perhaps we have some sort of illusion of oud through the marriage of all other components.

BR sings, it doesn't scream and there's a dryness and sheerness that makes it a comforting wear on cold mornings. There is a natural quality coming from the herbal mate note in the opening that counterbalances the pepper and rose, while the heart really reveals the mildly sweet sheerness that can be attributed to the osmanthus and freesia, two notes that experienced noses know can go in very different directions depending on the fragrance. Here, they are nuanced, yet lively, imparting a lift to the deeper richer elements that are the foundation of the composition. The rose itself is sustained through much of the development; solid, reliable, more green than luscious, but vibrant.

The base is where BR reveals itself as a true Arabian delight: the styrax, benzoin, and labdanum are create an accord that is arid and leathery, exotic and something that one would not expect from a Clinique release (apparently this was intended for the Middle Eastern market and we are lucky to have it within reach in the states at least while supplies last). Its quality is something that could be expected from Serge Lutens or dare I say, Frederic Malle, as it is just so cohesive, no rough edges, so pleasing to the nose, and a true joy to wear. This is definitely unisex, leaning masculine at times.