Reviews of Bigarade Concentrée by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle
Bigarade Concentree sees Frederic Malle and Jean-Claude Ellena doing a take on Eau d'Hermes and Ellena's own Declaration for Cartier. Even if Malle decided not to credit Ellena for this composition and left it a mystery, there would still be no doubt that this is Ellena. His trademark weightless, airy, luminous, and minimalist style with a love for cool spices, shimmering citrus notes, and sawdust woods, is on full display with Concentree. The top is plenty of citrus, as expected and stated, in addition to cool cardamom, which is also expected, but Ellena does something a bit more interesting with the cardamom than we would expect in that he pulls it through from the top to the heart where it combines with a caraway note to give a cumin like accord. Cumin is also nothing new for Ellena, it was present in huge quantities in Declaration, but the way he strings the cardamom from the top to the heart to achieve it doesn't ring any memory-bells in my mind. I'll have to go back to Declaration and give it another sniff to see. Anyway.... Thanks to the addition of a buttery orris, the cumin accord comes across as rich and decadent while also maintaining Ellena's signature minimalist and airy style. The base is also as you would expect: mossy and spicy woods. I smell a young green cedar type accord.
This is so much like Eau d'Hermes and Declaration that it's hard for me write any new thoughts, and I'm generally not a fan of repeating myself, so I'll highlight the differences: the biggest difference between Concentree and Declaration is the lack of vetiver in the base of Concentree; the biggest difference between Concentree and Eau d'Hermes is the lack of florals in Concentree. You might think these differences are enough to set Concentree apart from either one but, honestly, the similarities are so uncanny that I cannot help but recall one or both of the other two perfumes while smelling Concentree across its life stages. It would then be easy to conclude that Concentree is too derivative and therefore not any good. I would agree that it is too derivative, unless you strongly dislike vetiver or florals, in which case you would find Concentree the best out of the three, but I cannot say that it isn't a good perfume. It's a great perfume - of course it is; it's a winning formula that works every time. But, seeing as how I already own Eau d'Hermes (both vintage and new), and a vintage Declaration and a couple new flankers, why would I buy this? I would not, especially since Bigarade Concentree is more expensive than the other two even for vintage bottles. It's a very good but pointless perfume. It's a thumbs-up, but I'm right on the neutral line.
This is so much like Eau d'Hermes and Declaration that it's hard for me write any new thoughts, and I'm generally not a fan of repeating myself, so I'll highlight the differences: the biggest difference between Concentree and Declaration is the lack of vetiver in the base of Concentree; the biggest difference between Concentree and Eau d'Hermes is the lack of florals in Concentree. You might think these differences are enough to set Concentree apart from either one but, honestly, the similarities are so uncanny that I cannot help but recall one or both of the other two perfumes while smelling Concentree across its life stages. It would then be easy to conclude that Concentree is too derivative and therefore not any good. I would agree that it is too derivative, unless you strongly dislike vetiver or florals, in which case you would find Concentree the best out of the three, but I cannot say that it isn't a good perfume. It's a great perfume - of course it is; it's a winning formula that works every time. But, seeing as how I already own Eau d'Hermes (both vintage and new), and a vintage Declaration and a couple new flankers, why would I buy this? I would not, especially since Bigarade Concentree is more expensive than the other two even for vintage bottles. It's a very good but pointless perfume. It's a thumbs-up, but I'm right on the neutral line.
It takes incredible restraint to remain civilized around this scent - I want to roll around in it like a dog on a particularly compelling patch of lawn. I NEED this smell on me. Bright, bitter, spicy, salty, funky. Lime peel rubbed over sweaty armpits in the best, most addictive way possible.
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Bigarade Concentrée is Jean-Claude Ellena's typically severe tribute to Eau d'Hermès. The Frédéric Malle blurb describes it as "embellished" by cardamom and other spices. However, the cardamom isn't a mere embellishment, but a virtual scene-stealer from the titular bigarade. The net result is not, as the blurb goes on, "purity, like a crisp white shirt…for those who believe that seduction is found in cleanliness and perfection…an ocean of sophisticated freshness." Rather, it's a white shirt ironed with citrus-scented starch, but unwashed. It's neatness, but not cleanliness; a dash of sophistication (perhaps), but not an ocean of freshness. To be fair, the blurb also promises mischief and sex appeal, which it delivers if the sweaty funk of the spice reads that way to you.
Once you know what you're in for, BC definitely has its appeal; how much depends on your proclivities. But I think Ellena has worked this theme to better effect—and for less money—elsewhere. While I do like it, my 10ml spray is ample supply when I already have big bottles of Cartier Déclaration and Terre d'Hermès.
Once you know what you're in for, BC definitely has its appeal; how much depends on your proclivities. But I think Ellena has worked this theme to better effect—and for less money—elsewhere. While I do like it, my 10ml spray is ample supply when I already have big bottles of Cartier Déclaration and Terre d'Hermès.
Very similar to Cartier Declaration. The opening is Lemonheads candy sweet but quickly gives way to the peppery, body odor musk that some really like or dislike. I find it to be pretty linear during the first few hours but eventually, the muskiness fades. Overall, a mature, clean scent that feels best for daytime and professional settings.
Average projection for maybe 3-4 hours and then it hangs around much closer to skin for about 7-8 hours on my skin.
Average projection for maybe 3-4 hours and then it hangs around much closer to skin for about 7-8 hours on my skin.
Opens as a very realistic orange smell, but there's something else there too. It goes for a similar vibe to the dirty orange of TDH but replaces the earthyness with some cut grass greenery. Funny that, since the perfumer behind this one did TDH as well. Seems he's put out a lot of citrus scents over the years.
The performance on this is lacking. Immediately after settling on the skin it becomes a skinscent, no big wafts of this are going to come up throughout the day. I cannot fathom spending hundreds on something with such subpar performance. If you like the opening of this, try TDH Parfum, you'll get a lot more mileage at half the price.
The performance on this is lacking. Immediately after settling on the skin it becomes a skinscent, no big wafts of this are going to come up throughout the day. I cannot fathom spending hundreds on something with such subpar performance. If you like the opening of this, try TDH Parfum, you'll get a lot more mileage at half the price.
Bigarade Concentrée (2002) is so Jean-Claude Ellena that it honestly hurts. For those unaware, this is a perfumer pretty much obsessed with transparent citrus and floral notes, almost a lean and mean cyberpunk Edmond Roudnitska if you will, stripping that perfumer of his risque leanings to focus on purity. Never more clear was this than on Cartier Déclaration (1998), an ode to Roudnitska's Eau d'Hermès (1951), with Bigarade Concentrée being something of a continuation. Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle doesn't let their starring perfumers run entirely free however, so any significant changes in direction from Déclaration are likely at Malle's behest. The smell of Bigarade Concentrée seems to ditch most of the cumin, florals, and leather from Déclaration, excising the parts of that formula which were most comparable to the Roudnitska style to leave behind more of Ellena's personal vibe.
There is still plenty of bergamot and bitter orange up front, but the initial cumin blast is subdued, quickly shifting into dry rose much like the later Cartier Déclaration d'un Soir (2012) by Mathilde Laurent, which may have been likely inspired in part by this. The dry rose core seems to posses a minty ghost note which works with the spiced citrus top on a base of cedar, Iso E Super, coumarin, and Haitian vetiver, giving this a mown grass feel in the end. Despite the name, Bigarade Concentrée is not massively strong, and will fade in mere hours, much like many of the various eaux Jean-Claude worked on for Hermés. Wear time is maybe six hours max and sillage is booming for the first 30 minutes, then a whimper thereafter, which is also a hallmark of the most recent iterations of Ellena style. Keep this to casual summer use. I like what is presented, but the quality and performance does not leap out at me like many Creed and Xerjoff citrus florals in this price range.
I'm left wanting and questioning the price point, which is honestly something that seems to happen often when I test the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle lines. Not to house-bash, but a great many of the creations coming from the brand seem to be mostly of the standard quality and performance that the designers who employ these same perfumers display, so I'm left scratching my head and ultimately conclude it's another silly Veblen goods pride of ownership head trip that sells this stuff. Although I'll admit Malle isn't without its spectacular marquee creations which tempt the coinpurse. You can certainly buy something under the Hermés label and get a similar experience, or even roll back to Cartier Déclaration if you don't mind the sweaty aspect, but otherwise Bigarade Concentrée is an expensive hat trick from Ellena that leaves me feeling indifferent. Try for yourself if you're unsure, as my opinion here goes counter to popular consensus. Solid neutral.
There is still plenty of bergamot and bitter orange up front, but the initial cumin blast is subdued, quickly shifting into dry rose much like the later Cartier Déclaration d'un Soir (2012) by Mathilde Laurent, which may have been likely inspired in part by this. The dry rose core seems to posses a minty ghost note which works with the spiced citrus top on a base of cedar, Iso E Super, coumarin, and Haitian vetiver, giving this a mown grass feel in the end. Despite the name, Bigarade Concentrée is not massively strong, and will fade in mere hours, much like many of the various eaux Jean-Claude worked on for Hermés. Wear time is maybe six hours max and sillage is booming for the first 30 minutes, then a whimper thereafter, which is also a hallmark of the most recent iterations of Ellena style. Keep this to casual summer use. I like what is presented, but the quality and performance does not leap out at me like many Creed and Xerjoff citrus florals in this price range.
I'm left wanting and questioning the price point, which is honestly something that seems to happen often when I test the Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle lines. Not to house-bash, but a great many of the creations coming from the brand seem to be mostly of the standard quality and performance that the designers who employ these same perfumers display, so I'm left scratching my head and ultimately conclude it's another silly Veblen goods pride of ownership head trip that sells this stuff. Although I'll admit Malle isn't without its spectacular marquee creations which tempt the coinpurse. You can certainly buy something under the Hermés label and get a similar experience, or even roll back to Cartier Déclaration if you don't mind the sweaty aspect, but otherwise Bigarade Concentrée is an expensive hat trick from Ellena that leaves me feeling indifferent. Try for yourself if you're unsure, as my opinion here goes counter to popular consensus. Solid neutral.
The opening is very nice with juicy bitter orange that is paired with cumin and green notes. It goes to the classic eau de cologne style, but smelling contemporary, not dated. The smell is very satisfying but surely the cheaper alternatives like Hermes as just as good.
Immediate connection to the BO floral citrus of Cartier Declaration, but alas without the projection of the clean floral that happens in the later scent's classic 2nd stage. Somewhat of a disappointment.
This is a borderline thumbs up. It can be very good in moments, such as the opening, or smelling it up close during the mid. Something about the way it develops, though, disappoints me. I'm conflicted because the good moments are so very good, but I'm giving it a neutral.
At its best, it's a beautiful take on a Cartier Declaration type fragrance. At its worst, it's flat and dull, and doesn't deliver on the promise of the opening.
At its best, it's a beautiful take on a Cartier Declaration type fragrance. At its worst, it's flat and dull, and doesn't deliver on the promise of the opening.
My scent tastes range from bright clean colognes to darker, bolder scents like Noir Epices or Chanel Sycomore. As far as colognes go, this is my favorite. It lasts a very long time (only Chanel eau de cologne competes) and the drydown is just wonderful.
An orange eau de cologne formula with increased concentration. There's a slight earthy edge to it, that actually makes the composition rugged and interesting. It is very fresh, uplifting, and calms down to dry woods in a couple of hours.
Bigarade Concentree is effectively a more concentrated version of Malle's Cologne Bigarade, and is relatively better value, especially if one is after something with more than one hour of duration. However, it's also in the same family as some other colognes (Eau d'Orange Verte, Concentre d'Orange Verte) and perfumes (Declaration, Declaration Essence). The former two colognes can sometimes have a pissy aspect which Bigarade Concentree doesn't have. The latter two are more opulent studies on orange-cumin-woods, and I find those more engaging.
Among other concentrated colognes, Bigarade Concentree smells much more natural than Cologne Indelebile and Neroli Portofino, but lasts much less than either of those two.
Nice, but what's the point of dropping $$$ on a cologne?
3/5
Bigarade Concentree is effectively a more concentrated version of Malle's Cologne Bigarade, and is relatively better value, especially if one is after something with more than one hour of duration. However, it's also in the same family as some other colognes (Eau d'Orange Verte, Concentre d'Orange Verte) and perfumes (Declaration, Declaration Essence). The former two colognes can sometimes have a pissy aspect which Bigarade Concentree doesn't have. The latter two are more opulent studies on orange-cumin-woods, and I find those more engaging.
Among other concentrated colognes, Bigarade Concentree smells much more natural than Cologne Indelebile and Neroli Portofino, but lasts much less than either of those two.
Nice, but what's the point of dropping $$$ on a cologne?
3/5
After a short orange/citrus opening, Bigarade changes quickly to an unmistakable generic Ellena scent which could be anything from the Hermessence range. I like it but it's too expensive.
Yup, summer, summer, summer. Orange/lemon with Bigarade-type bitter tartness but a touch softened. Very lean. Very refreshing. Very convincing. This phase lasts an hour.
The drydown exudes a dried grass aroma with woodsy undertones. Less exciting but pleasant.
I get moderate sillage initially, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on the skin, with most of it being very much a skin scent.
A typical Cologne. Less intense but tarter than Creed's Citrus Bigarrade and with a less interesting drydown, but overall with better longevity - the latter is very good for a summer Cologne. 3.5/5.
The drydown exudes a dried grass aroma with woodsy undertones. Less exciting but pleasant.
I get moderate sillage initially, adequate projection and five hours of longevity on the skin, with most of it being very much a skin scent.
A typical Cologne. Less intense but tarter than Creed's Citrus Bigarrade and with a less interesting drydown, but overall with better longevity - the latter is very good for a summer Cologne. 3.5/5.
In its simplest form, this is what you get when you cross fresh orange with cumin. But there's a lot more to it than that. There's other citrus up top (bergamot and lemon), but it's the hidden synthetics that make the magic really happen. Basically, the citrus burns off fairly fast, leaving behind the chemicals that were making it so juicy and pulpy. Meanwhile, the cumin sinks into my skin, simulating sweaty body odor. And it's there that the magic happens - juicy, pulpy body smell. It's gross, but also weirdly sexy and a deceptively brilliant piece of perfumery.
Honestly, I find Bigarade Concentrée difficult to wear for the same reasons I find it kind of brilliant. As such, I'm voting neutral because I just don't have that much use for something that makes me smell like sweaty, juicy body smells, but I do think this is artfully conceived and fun to try.
Honestly, I find Bigarade Concentrée difficult to wear for the same reasons I find it kind of brilliant. As such, I'm voting neutral because I just don't have that much use for something that makes me smell like sweaty, juicy body smells, but I do think this is artfully conceived and fun to try.
Editions Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentree opens with a deep warm orange aroma with just a touch of tart orange bite and then lots of sweetness and depth of rose and various bigarade orange notes. I am guessing it is a combination of orange fruit, leaves and woods. Dry sun aged hay and mild herbal bitters element is noticeable and then a super cedar underwriting of the whole melange which adds dryness and lasting power. Bigarade Concentree is not just a stronger concentrated version of Cologne Bigarade, the first Ellena iteration which has more herbal astringency than this concentrated version, but there is a different aroma here as well as more strength. Gone is much of the dirty underside of Cologne Bigarade, but the Concentree definitely has more lasting power and is a more pleasing generalized Bigarade that includes many parts of this fascinating and mesmerizing evergreen orange plant. Bigarade Concentree is one of the my favorite orange fragrances and is hard to improve upon its simple but well rounded perfection.
I like the smell.
It's citrusy cologne crossed with a touch of Cartier Declaration, and not too far off from Frapin L'Humaniste.
It's citrusy cologne crossed with a touch of Cartier Declaration, and not too far off from Frapin L'Humaniste.
Edgy orange. Up close, it's a little rubbery on the open and into the heart. I enjoyed the sample but Declaration is still my go-to for this type scent and is a much better value. No need to overthink this one.
OFFICE TEST:
Female 1: 2.5/5, Impression: Tropical, fresh, holiday feeling
Female 2: 2/5, Impression: refreshing orange, but too sweet
Female 3: 4/5, Impression: very nice, summery smell
Male 1: 4/5, Impression: reminds me of the old CK, bit too citrusy though
Male 2: 3.5/5, Impression: smells OK for a woman's perfume
Male 3: 5/5, Impression: a very fruity zesty smell
Projection: average
Longevity: Reportedly average. Has a life span of an ordinary non-niche frag.
My opinion:
Starts with an extremely visceral and evocative bitter orange you can almost see and touch it. For those who love oranges this must be a delicious sensation. Luckily for me, very soon an additional note, I can't really identify emerges, and it's steers the fragrance away from the straight-forward, edible character.
It's definitely orange for as long as it lasts, it gets slightly more abstract and a lot more sophisticated in less than an hour.
Fresh, pleasant and clean, but still pretty original.
I'm sure anybody could wear it anywhere without a problem. I'd be really surprised with strong negative opinions. It just can't possibly be offensive to most people, unless they hate oranges for some reason.
Would I wear it? Sure, why not, especially on a hot day. Would I buy the entire bottle? No.
Female 1: 2.5/5, Impression: Tropical, fresh, holiday feeling
Female 2: 2/5, Impression: refreshing orange, but too sweet
Female 3: 4/5, Impression: very nice, summery smell
Male 1: 4/5, Impression: reminds me of the old CK, bit too citrusy though
Male 2: 3.5/5, Impression: smells OK for a woman's perfume
Male 3: 5/5, Impression: a very fruity zesty smell
Projection: average
Longevity: Reportedly average. Has a life span of an ordinary non-niche frag.
My opinion:
Starts with an extremely visceral and evocative bitter orange you can almost see and touch it. For those who love oranges this must be a delicious sensation. Luckily for me, very soon an additional note, I can't really identify emerges, and it's steers the fragrance away from the straight-forward, edible character.
It's definitely orange for as long as it lasts, it gets slightly more abstract and a lot more sophisticated in less than an hour.
Fresh, pleasant and clean, but still pretty original.
I'm sure anybody could wear it anywhere without a problem. I'd be really surprised with strong negative opinions. It just can't possibly be offensive to most people, unless they hate oranges for some reason.
Would I wear it? Sure, why not, especially on a hot day. Would I buy the entire bottle? No.
I have to agree with the reviews that mention a sharp BO smell thanks to the cumin note. Too bad since this scent had great potential as a sparkling bitter citrus.
Bitter orange, cardamom, cumin and cedar in quick succession. The orange is a big, beautiful wedge rather than the razor-thin lemon of an eau de cologne like Chanel's; the cumin provides a welcome swarthiness in the same way it does in Ellena's earlier Déclaration for Cartier. It's a brilliant little arrangement that shamefully fades to beige in under an hour. Curse you, Ellena.
A 'toned-down' version of Cartier's Declaration, with more bitter citrus, less cumin and a well-blended rose note to add a bit of body (an exercise Ellena later repeated to greater effect with Voyage d'Hermes parfum). Declaration is my drug of choice in this vein, but if you find that earlier work too rich for your blood, do give BC a shot.
Jean Claude Ellena is obviously master of the orange citrus scents. But this one just smells like overpowering body odor, even worse than Terre d'Hermes Pure Parfum (which is already too much like BO to me). I realize Luca Turin loves this stuff, but I think it's rank.
