Bogart Citytower
Jacques Bogart (2008)

Bogart Citytower by Jacques Bogart (2008) came at a time when everyone was going nuts for spiced woody-ambers in the 2000's, thanks to Tom Ford when he was still at Gucci and YSL. Mr. Ford pushed out both M7 by Yves Saint Laurent (2002) and Gucci pour Homme (2003), featuring scratchy, medicinal agarwood accords generated from pure artifice, while in the case of the Gucci, the scent was swaddled in a heavier spiced amber to match the guaiac wood accord (effectively the same material in the M7 under a different note name). The boys went nuts for these, and eventually everyone from Parfums de Marly, Kenneth Cole, Calvin Klein, Bvlgari, and Prada on down to Avon and Jacques Bogart was playing with these materials, built mostly from aromachemical woody-ambers. Jacques Bogart in particular must have thought they had something special here, as they released this in matching body care products: 100 ml after shave balm, 100 ml after shave natural spray, 200 ml shower gel and 150 ml deodorant. All of that stuff is gone now, and this scent is just about extinct too, since Bogart flushed it out for sub-$10 prices for years until it was gone from discounters.

The bottle is notably inspired by architecture, and takes a nod from Dior Homme (2005) with the straw shroud in the middle. Later, Bogart would re-use the bottle for the Riviera Nights and Arabian Nights (2011) pair, if curious. All signals point to this being the first attempt at a sedate, dapper, office-safe signature fragrance from Bogart since maybe Force Majeure by Jacques Bogart (1998) or even further back with Bois de Vetiver by Jacques Bogart (1985). Closest comparison to me for any other competing fragrances from the day would be Kenneth Cole RSVP (2006), which has a similar labdanum-rich woody-amber base with a touch of dusty/scratchy spice. I got rid of my bottle, so that tells you where we're headed here. The opening is quite sedate for a Bogart, with the norlimbanol scratch coming in soft, rather than rakish as we'd see in later woody-ambers using it. Cardamom, nutmeg, and pink pepper bring this a 90's oriental feel, like Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron (1997). Eventually, this fragrances reaches a more-ambery accord, but remains dusty, a bit clean, and warm, with a nuttiness that lasts. The "oud" here isn't, and the dry down is most reminiscent of the much more-expensive Ispazon by Parfums de Marly (2010) that would launch the brand at decade's end. Longevity is amazing with these tenacious AC's, but that's about it.

Ispazon goes further into bay leaf and shaving foam notes to make its take on the woody-amber phenomenon more cheerful, versatile, and overall balanced than Citytower, so this is one rare time I will recommend the upmarket take over the more-economical option; this is especially given that both fragrances are discontinued anyway, so if you're going on a hunt-and-spend whack-a-mole mission for something you're likely obsessively overpaying for to begin with, might as well get the bigger 120ml bottle with the better juice. I understand the love for this one when it was a cheaper alternative to all others in its respective field, before this nutty/woody/spicy/ambery style of fragrance dried up into the 2010's with discontinuations nearly across the board (except the Kenneth Cole, which hangs on for some reason). Calvin Klein's late-coming Encounter (2011) was the best of these synthoudy-amber office scent type things, and Prada ultimately made it sexier with the also-discontinued (surprise) Luna Rossa Black (2018). This one goes into the archives for me because I have a special place in my heart for Bogart, although I won't kid myself or any of you by calling it particularly noteworthy. Neutral

I really like this. A dusty, powdery, cardboard kind of smell. A musty leathery base combines well with the nutmeg. The rumbling oudy incense is blended beautifully with the geranium and cardamom - little hints of spicy pepper pop up from the smoky wood. It's vaguely medicinal but not to the extent of Guilty Absolut's cough-drop leather. A little hint of rubber maybe? But this pulls me in, it's cosy and warm, reassuring. As usual for a Bogart you can smell it and it lasts. A radical idea for a perfume it would seem.

Bergamot, Incense, Pink Pepper.
Nutmeg, Geranium, Cardamom.
Agarwood, Labdanum, Musk, Leather.

When the need arises to revisit a fragrance and I find I like it more now than I did years ago in the review, it's only fitting ( and fair ) to change the review, in order to reflect your new found appreciation. Now, in my initial review, I gave City Tower a thumbs up. This time around, I find it more nuanced and contemporary than previously perceived.

For whatever reason, memory serves City Tower as being stronger than what I am presently wearing. I still experience the suggestion of Tonka, although it's not listed. However, 5 years ago it seemed more pronounced and I now concede that it must be the balsamic quality in the Cardamom rendition interacting with Nutmeg and Labdanum.

In the end, who cares what's giving me that impression. It happens to smell very good and side steps the generic-chemical label so common in fairly recent releases.

Upon initial application, I cannot say I get the typical Bergamot, but there is a subtle sweet in the mix I attribute to it. It's simply tuned too low to be heard over the Spicy Incense. The floral and spice interplay lend an interesting edge to an otherwise placid accord. It manages to puff it up a bit and give it some character.

On my skin at least, the spirit of City Tower lies in its heart. It's here where its strength resides and its here that its steadfast and unwavering personality greets you, not with a smile, but with a nod of acknowledgement. Yes, City Tower is linear and strong like the name suggests. Like a landmark that happens to catch your eye, it lets you know it's there. It's powerfully understated and won't get in your way. It lends enjoyment by simply being there to experience.

I don't experience transitions or shifts in the fragrance except to say that it morphs into a lower gear after 45 minutes or so. It's seamless enough to where I can never genuinely tell when it begins, but once I do take notice, I'll begin to smell that suggestion of Tonka I mentioned earlier. There's also very subtle hints of leatheriness to augment the balsamic accord that's still thriving.

Truth be told, Oud never comes to fruition on my skin when wearing City Tower. Whatever wood I perceive doesn't represent oud as I know it. It's rather indistinguishable, but completely appropriate and complimentary. The resin is also a nice accent.

Sillage is good with longevity approximately 4 hours on my skin, plus the same amount of time or longer as a skin scent. Thumbs up from SS for City Tower by Jacques Bogart. I should mention that this has weather versatility in spite of being substantial. As always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase if at all possible.

Bogart Citytower is a well appointed fresh oriental, candidly powdery but never "balmy affected", delicately spicy, sharp, minimally peppery incensey and finally woody in a talky chypre way. Spices and incense are in substance soft and mild, just for a while minimally resinous. The fresh cardamom is a key notes noticeable till the end. The mildness level is keen, really balanced, never beyond the acceptation limits. The final talkiness is pure soft windy delicacy and the synthetic vibe is quite under control. I see points in common with several far more expensive juices around, for instance from Tiziana Terenzi (partially with Ecstasy), Farmacia SS Annunziata (Takis for instance) or Piguet (Casbah, which is far more spicy, incensey, resinous and stormy). Citytower is anyway more than decent despite a cheap price and the "ordinary" implemented materials. Frankly I don't feel the floral accents while a initial wet hesperidic approach is undeniable. The dry down is really pleasant since you detect a really realistic leathery touch swirling over musks, powdery woods (a touch of synthetic "uncreamy" oud) and talky amber. A likeable fragrance finally even fresh and virile till the end.

The drydown is a bit powdery and subtle..
All of the basenotes remain close to the skin while the top notes remain constant. The oud/musk basenotes are very subtle as mentioned but sillage is ok.. Not worthy but at least the price is in the same line as other Bogart offerings..

A very pleasant, long lasting scent, that is very close to the skin.
Incense is the dominant note with some tobacco in the foreground. Oud is well back in the background and it is barely perceptible, but it does make a difference, without it it would be a completely different scent.
The drydown is musky, spicy and sweet, it has to have either Tonka Bean or Vanilla, although they are not mentioned in the pyramid, but you can not deny their presence, it is too sweet to attribute the sweetness just on musk.
It is completely different to any other Bogart I have tried, although I can see a little similarity with Bogart pour Homme.
I do like it and I think it easily deserves a thumbs up