Reviews of Cuir / Cuir de Russie by L.T. Piver

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Just a word of warning:

The reviews here are a jumble of reviews about two different scents, and as such, they talk past each other.

Piver makes _Cuir_ ga somewhat modern, "updated" scent. However, they also still do make _Cuir de Russie _ - with all the honey, animal funk (tending towards the animalic-ness of Givenchy Gentleman and then some).

Personally, I love the Cuir de Russie. It's not an "easy wear" - but then more are new Tricker's boots, or real wool dressing gowns. But f*-+ me, it's worth it. For anyone in a scent journey, Cuir de Russie is a honey, civet, castoreum bomb that will take you straight to paradise when you detonate.
12th March 2023
270522
Stardate 20190130:
Vintage Version:
A nice musky/animalic sweet top. Pyramid says honey but I get something more.
Then it develops to birchy floral goodness. I like it more wearable than Chanel's version.

Recommended
30th January 2019
212401

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Honey & warm sweet Leather... gorgeous!!
L.T. Piver is a very old French perfume house comparable to Guerlain in that it served the Royalty of France in the 18th & 19th Centuries.

The perfume Cuir was inspired by the French fascination with all things coming from Russia and the East, this included the smell of "Russian Leather" or "Cuir de Russie" made famous by Chanel and previously Guerlain. This is the smell of "Cossack" boots, which were meant for horseback riding, and in which birch tar was used to give the leather a less "animalic" smell.

This is such a beauty for me because it has an unusual combination of honey & leather, followed by warm spices, oakmoss, amber, woods and resins... what more could you ask for? In fact, every time I spray this it makes me smile! Such a warm and happy vibe!

The honey note is done very tastefully and is sweet but also dark and spicy at the same time. The whole fragrance actually reminds me of hot black tea with honey and spices... as I sometimes drink tea without milk and just with cloves and cinnamon, and sweetened with either sugar or honey! I can imagine a scene in old Russia of a noble soldier who is returning home after a long journey with his horse tired from riding many dangerous miles through forest and snow... he reaches a typical wooden house not far from the forest which is warm and has a fire... and on the fire there is hot tea waiting ready for him, and maybe some meat, bread and honey for him to eat after his long and exhausting journey. It is the smell of warm, genuine hospitality and human comfort against the bitter cold of nature outside. To me this is the perfect winter fragrance but could be worn on formal occasions at other times of the year.

The whole fragrance has a "refined" and "classic" quality which is good for many different occasions. I'm grateful to the person who allowed me to sample this because without it I probably wouldn't have discovered this perfume house on my own! I'm very grateful to them!

I'm recommending this one to all who love the smell of warm, winter spices and honey, with a touch of leather. I'm very impressed by this creation from L.T. Piver., and will try more from them in future... well done!
28th October 2014
147878
First Edit: My iniitial review was of the re-issue (see text below). I gave it a neutral because it was merely a wood, not a leather. I have just purchased a bottle of the 1939 vintage and what a world of difference.

The original is true Russian leather: birch tar with animalic civet, castoreum and ambergris, tied together with the darkest of musks, and only slightly lightened by tonka and amber. Truly masculine and truly great. By all means seek out vintage on this one. Avoid the re-issue at all costs.

Initial review of the re-issue follows:

First, a blast of cedar wood with a light, pleasant turpentine moment, then it settles down to be a very light wood scent with a touch of bergamot.

In other words, I get no leather at all.

The great leathers in my book are: SMN's Peau d'Espagne, Chanel's Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten and Parfums d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman. These run the gamut from strong to light, from tough masculine to elegant gentlemanly sophistication. If you had these four on hand, your leather moods would be secured.

L. T. Piver's Cuir is a pleasant wood, not a leather. Okay, but no prize winner.
16th April 2014
190544
The first sensation i felt in a while few instants after the first inhalation of this fragrance was the laundry smell of clean and wiped hotel rooms of the old city. Someting clean, soapy and talky-fresh whirls  in the air. This is the first effect of the combination of bergamot, aromatic resins and honey few instants after the  spray. With the time the soapy laundry feel evolves towards a soft ad aromatic leathery smell with some mildness made of balsams and  powdery woods. There is a boise', resinous and aromatic vibe exuding from the juice, may be coming out from  birch resin. A luxurious leathery  and honeyed fragrance very discreet, balanced and restrained.
11th December 2011
102149
Well, I don't get a birch note and I don't get a leather note.
What I do get is a very -- very -- sweet, powdery fragrance. Aromatic at first, develops a tinny/metallic twang.
Certainly does not ring my chimes.
This is the vintage version: Cuir de Russie.
12th July 2011
94256
This is a great fragrance - I think it is really geared towards men, but it could work on a woman too. I am currently wearing the new version "Cuir". It went on as leather/honey, and stayed with me all day. I wore it on wrists and neck. It stays very close to the skin and I never felt I would have to "explain" myself with this one. It's very classic, non-controversial...there is almost nothing to dislike about this and it's extremely wearable. That might be it's slight downfall for me! It's so self-assured, plays well with others it's not terribly interesting unless you want to gaze into it's eyes. It's subtle, manly but not "butch". A man in a suit who is a banker, not a broker. There are some other layers there - carnation - that add depth but nothing really stands out to me that much; almost predictable, not boring though, just enough to interest. This is a good work fragrance. I do wonder how it compares to the original. Very safe choice I would say.

12th July 2011
94283
This has been re-formulated and repackaged and re-named. It's now just called Cuir. It's a sweeter leather and I like it very much. Honey is tricky to achieve in fragrances as it smells a lot like piss, but it's done well here. What with all the makeovers, you would expect the price to rise also -- it has.
6th June 2011
92445
I don't know why this kind a leather evaporated so quickly. It just a trace, a bit trace, of leather after all. It turns into deep spicy scent that embrace me of opium. I'm not a leather expert, but Tuscany Leather and Knize Ten are the best in genre. Piver CdR in adj:Level 1: back rub Level 2: shuttle spiceLevel 3: wayang
23rd February 2009
59279
A simple leather that just feels perfectly average.
11th October 2008
48246
Wonderful birch high note but it lasts only seconds on me before heading straight into quite a sweet powdery carnation, honey, leather melange. Give it an hour or two and on me it develops, with the occasional spicy note along the way, into something reminiscent of Habit Rouge but in my opinion not as balanced, interesting or sophisticated as that and certainly a million miles away from the masterpiece that is Chanel's Cuir de Russie. I tried the re-issue and not the original/vintage stuff. I can imagine an earlier version being a fabulous 70's French gay brew, as eluded to in other reviews here.
8th October 2008
57047
a perfume that smells of muscles, leather, the scent of manhood.PS: the new version is crap. Try to get your hands on a vintage bottle.
24th May 2008
55488
Griff calls the overwhelming mandarin "metallic"; I'd say it's more blunt and fuzzy, like a skein of polyester yarn wrapped carefully around a ball-peen hammer. The carnation is squashed to a sad pink pulp (some of its clove seeps out, however, in the squashing). The rich or ancient leather-or-wood notes that others have found I can only discover after hours, long polyester-hammer hours, sitting very close to my skin, almost as though it were a postcard sent from the gift shop of the antique sawmill Quarry so beautifully describes. "I wish I were there, too," I say sadly to Quarry; but my nose will not take me there.This is a good fragrance to have on hand if, for instance, you are staying in Paris in the winter in an apartment with no hot water, where you consequently bathe perhaps not as often as you might like to. Piver's Cuir de Russie is so powerful, so straightforward, and so absurdly durable that you will never walk out of the house feeling unkempt. Not fascinating, perhaps, but certainly presentable.
11th April 2008
53190
The manufacturer's website makes it clear that this is an updated version of the 1939 scent. Despite it's current Basenotes unisex classification, the manufacturer has it unambiguously as a masculine scent.When I first tested it I didn't know what to make of it - honey and leather is an unusual combination. The scent lasts all of a working day, and the honey retracts somewhat, leaving an extremely pleasant sweet leather scent that keeps wafting nicely. I'm generally not much of a fan of rough leathery scents, but I am a fan of Curion, and now of Piver's Cuir de Russie.Renato
7th February 2007
18887
This CdR has generated one of those opportunities to say I, a woman, wouldn't wear this scent, but I have to aknowledge its distinction. When I close my eyes and try to follow this scent to its source, my mind conjures a visit to an old sawmill with decades of pugency. This mill offers historic reenactments, so I can smell the large metal sawblade glistening with oil from a recent sharpening, and there's just a bit of burnt odor from the enormous leather belt that chafes on and turns the sawmill's flywheel. I'm not sure what kind of wood they're cutting, but it has a mildly spicy content.This is an attractive scent that I'd prefer to encounter as a foyer potpourri.
11th October 2006
17985
I have a Barbershop in the Netherlands.Whe sell the most of L.T Piver fragrance,s.im happy there are a lot of people they like L.t Piver.At last the Cuir De Russie Lotion is back for over 50 years.www.barbershopclassics.nl
31st March 2006
1406
Although I'm not really fond of leathery scents on my own skin, I have a high regard for Chanel's Cuir de Russie. I don't wear it, but I can imagine wearing it! I'd say Piver's version is quite a bit more masculine than Chanel's and it would surprise me if there were any women who really wanted to wear this one. I'm embarassed to admit, I bought it for the bottle and the label, which always reminds me of Stravinsky's Petrouchka ballet.
29th October 2005
16625
This is a review of both the recent and older formulation.

Recent formulation: A solid-if-flat concoction of honey held aloft by a weak, patently synthetic leather. ("Birch?" What "Birch?" A hint of lavender perhaps, but no birch to this nose). At first, it is nearly identical to Michael Kors Michael for Men. This formulation also has a hint of aldehyde. Meh. Barely a thumbs up (Not an aldehyde fan).

Older formulation: Still reminiscent of Michael for Men's honey accord but stronger than the newer formulation. No detectable aldehydes, more birch tar, more leather overlayered with tobacco leaf, a hint of lavender and a bit of patchouli. If Michael for Men and Knize Ten had a love child, this would be it.

23rd August 2005
266121