Cuir de Russie
Guerlain (1872)

Guerlain CDR proceeds to florals like rosemary, lavender and powdery iris. There's some undertone of oriental and resins that are present - a little bit of amber and vanilla. The birch and styrax can be detected in the blend but it's never truly in the forefront of the scent at anytime. There's a present of musk and civet that exists throughout most of the scent's duration. Very natural smelling, smooth, with the highest quality ingredients observed. The resins, musk, and civet linger into the base where they're met by some hints of oak moss which makes for nice finish. While this has the accord of leather, it lacks the actual note. The performance was excellent with great longevity and moderate silage early on before staying closer to the skin. A very elegant scent overall. Any individuals who have an admiration for classic Guerlains and/or leathers should smell this!

It is my honor to be the SECOND reviewer of this amazing scent from the house of Guerlain! A good friend has a bottle of Cuir de Russie which has been in his household for many, many decades; I handled the vintage bottle with the utmost of care, for the cause of sharing my experience on this site.

Just like a vintage liquor, my initial impressions of CdR was how silky smooth it came across...like a precious wine aging and just getting better, not losing its traits at all. Birch seems to jump out from this otherwise well-mixed potion, as does the wondrous civet musk and my all-time favorite note, iris. Honestly, little else of what is listed in the basenotes triangle above was obvious from the dab I placed on my wrist, though there is a gourmandish sweetness that I would attribute to benzoin. The fact that there was pre-2001 oakmoss in this fragrance was a most fascinating thought, as I could barely detect the earthy-mossy note.

The age of the liquid within had to be a factor in how this was perceived by me. I could only imagine how this bottle of Cuir de Russie must have smelt like in its initial creation and opening: Perhaps brighter, more crisp and sparkly. Now, it is a dense, powdery wood-spice-amber potion that sort of resembles leather that was covered in a sweet oil. And given its age, the sillage and longevity were quite low.

I like what remains of this bottle of CdR. Most old, old bottles of cologne or perfume that I've encountered deserve to be tossed promptly into the trash, due to the expired, spoiled ingredients within. I can't say that this particular scent is in that same category, even after sooooooooo long! A testament to the quality materials and craftmanship of the original scent.

I consider it a great honor to be the first Basenotes reviewer to address this classic scent from the 19th century and one of the greatest fragrance houses.

Basenotes has 98 scents listed with the name “Cuir” (leather) and 10 listed as “Cuir de Russie” (Russian Leather).

I am experiencing pure parfum from a bottle of the Guerlain Cuir de Russie, which according to its design was created between 1872 and 1910.

Top notes are: Lavender, Rosemary, Thyme
Heart notes are: Iris, Styrax, Labdanum, Benzoin, Birch
Base notes are: Amber Musk Civet Vetiver Oak Moss

A reviewer on Fragrantica reminds us that this is a decade before the creation of aldehydes and that her impression of it from a sample at the Osmatheque was that of a powerful leather with musk and civet dominating. She also mentions that it reminds her of Desprez' 1962 Bal a Versailles.

I am very surprised therefore upon application that it is to my nose extremely smooth, not at all harsh. All the notes are superbly blended so no one stands out.
Its lack of strength may be purposeful or due to age. Sillage is not really evident.
It wears very close to the skin

The musk is very vanilla-like and the civet is smooth and rich. Styrax and birch are there, but in the background. A soft, powdery leather to be worn by a gentleman. For the Tsar, not the Cossack.

A true treasure from the past!