Eau Sans Pareil
Penhaligon's (1870)

Honestly, I can't quite believe that I rated this as neutral. The original ESP is easily in my top 5 frags of all time. Truth be told, this reformulation is probably a thumbs up on it's own, but here's the deal... They have obliterated the original Eau Sans Pareil. For all of a fleeting second, one gets a hint of the ethereal, confident, mysterious, and commanding scent from 30 years ago. Yes, 1988-2018, time flies. Alas, just as quickly, a soft, powdery, dusty Sweet Tart (American candy) scent takes over and the hypnotic power of a headier, aldehydic potion becomes but a mere waft of flowery poof. What was more akin to a classic Chanel, Robert Piguet, or Guerlain (the wicked, feisty ones) is now in league with contemporarily sweeter sorts like, Prada, Arpege PH, or (forgive me) The GAP.

Having said that, it is a pleasant enough frag on it's own, but doesn't fill the original's shoes. It's in much the same way that the reformulated Esprit Du Roi is delightfully nuanced and pleasant but doesn't have the pungent thwack of the original. Frankly, Tralala feels more like a reformulated ESP than this reworking. Sure, not so much in terms of actual accords, but in overall impact- the new ESP just doesn't have the command and power of the early twentieth century innovators which original ESP referenced in feel , if not formulation.

It's pleasant. It's classy. It's transitional. It's everything beautiful, basic, and neutral one could want. Probably more decidedly feminine than the original.

Good Fun Sadly I haven't ever sampled the original Eau Sans Pareil, which sounds sublime, however the current version is actually a whole lot of fun. Sweet fruits dominate the initial zingy opening, but unfortunately also seem to dominate the flowery heart, which is difficult for me to pick out. The warm woody base works well to ground the scent without being at all cloying. This is a gorgeous scent for summer days and nights, but probably a bit too fruity to wear in the office if you're an XY Pros: a lively fruit punch Cons: too playful for work chaps

I can't compare to the original as I never encountered it, but I found ESP to be the nicest of the anthologie series -- the top notes are a really wonderfu melange of peppers, fruits and citrus, which are surprisingly mellow. The floral notes are mixed nicely with the woody base. Not sure how the mossy ambience is achieved, probably due to the musks used, so not strictly a chypre. I don't get the reference to Hypnotic Poison, i.e. I can't detect any mimosa/heliotropin at all. I am pleased to see it isn't categorised as 'feminine' as it does veer that way slightly and I have already purchased.

I don't like to write negative reviews. But this scent it isn't original at all. And for a parfum called "without comparison" it is a paradox! Sorry but it strongly reminds me of Hypnotic Poison. I never tried the vintage version, but this modernized version is really too fruity and sweet to be smart. Strange for Penhaligons that is such a brave company.

The original Eau Sans Pareil is an absolutely beautiful fragrance, truly elegant and evocative, combining a vague barbershop feel with a beautiful perfumed air of distinction. Woody and aromatic in feel and a very slight powderiness giving it a dry but sweet edge.

The Anthology series version is nothing at all like the original.

I am really quite shocked that Penhaligon's would issue what you would expect to be a "re-release" edition of a former scent, that bears no resemblance to it's forebearer at all. Don't get me wrong, it's pleasant enough, just not exceptional, which the original most certainly is.

So, thumbs most definitely up for the original but only a neutral for the Anthology release and a thumbs down for Penhaligon's for what I feel is a piece of commercial sleight of hand.

The 2011 Anthology re-issue of ESP is pleasant enough, but there really isn't anything to distinguish it from the endless stream of washed-out florals that seem designed specifically to serve as gifts for those characterless nieces you see only once a year. The official notes call it a chypre and perhaps there is a drop of oakmoss somewhere in the deepest recesses of its construction, but I can't see any Mitsouko-lovers clamouring to get their hands on this one.