Epices Exquises
Eau de Parfum, Guerlain (2022)

For starters, this review is based on Épices Exquises new edition, re-released in 2024 as part of the Absolus Allegoria collection and replacing the previous Épices Exquises 2022 as part of Absolus d’Orient Collection. Actually I've never tested on skin the 2022-version and so I'm unable to argue on eventual differences.
This super spicy-woody elegant Guerlain's fragrance is based on a fluidy/fresh main accord of humid cardamom, well calibrated toasted angular coffee (going demeaning itself in intensity along the way), dusty sweet spices and liquid oudh. Cardamom is probably the main actor in here (noticeable and dominant as well as the way it performs in Costume National Homme Edt 2009), a huge amount of fresh fluidy exotic spiciness utterly supported by black/pink pepper and aromatics. Thierry Wasser has created an extremely fresh and wearable four seasons spicy oudish unisex perfume. Épices Exquises by Guerlain is definitely a spicy oriental creation for women and men (despite it fits more properly on a feminine woman imo). This is an extremely soapy/resinous fragrance with a translucent spicy aromatic aura finally sweeter, spicier and spicier. There is a certain subtle sophistication in its spicy wake and the coffee-note smells kind of shadowy and piquant. What does
Épices Exquises smell like? Hard question to answer at, definitely about cool cardamom and resinous/incensey woodiness well rounded by a touch of dusty shadowy coffee-note (along the way fading down) and by a incresingly soapy and sweet (vaguely candied) spiciness (intense, kind of subtle, lip-stick and refined). The intense spiciness produces a quite intense somewhat candied/fruity (in perception) velvety vibe (it seems to detect something like cherry or blackberries but it's just the spicy vibe combined with something vaguely suedish, coffee-note and the resins). Coffee and sandalwood are refreshed by slightly saffrony cardamom and soothed down by resins with a final soapy/spicy/slightly suedish/candied (leaning to feminine side imo) subtle wake slightly conjuring the 2011 Le Labo Santal 33's one (in a slightly more candied/soapy/cardamomish way) as ideally combined with Cartier Declaration d'Un Soir (2012). The bottom line is that Épices Exquises is a subtle sophisticated modern soapy/candied elegant creation (with a woodsy/slightly incensey aura) due the wearer to stand out in spring time outdoors events or ideal for cozy dinners in elegant restaurants. Performances are more than good, especially projection.

A light aromatic woody scent. There's a bit of a peppery vibe in drydown. I don't really detect a strong presence of oud or patchouli. It's just light sandalwood laced with pepper. There are far better offerings from Guerlain.