Fantastique
D'Orsay (1958)

[Parfum de Toilette] Gosh, did perfumes give so much FLAVOR at one time. Fantastique is at the other end of the 50s portal, before a priss passage, where sensuality was at a maximum. Bitter galbanum bite, mushroomy gardenia and lily of the valley purity tropes taste so much better when there's a hunk of Animalis base (hat tip to J Wearscentient for his own Cafleurebon review of Fantastique). The classic Synarome concoction of costus, cedar, and proprietary goodies meant to simulate tonkin musk is here, hot and heavy. Growl.

The opening blast combines fruity notes - I get mainly dried prunes and apricots - with fresh hesperidic impressions in a lovely way. The drydown sees a gradual increase of floral components, on my mainly gardenia with some violet; this turns a bit darker and more somber, taking in a velvety texture. A transient powderiness wanes as the times goes on the the development continues.

The base notes include a fairly deep musk note that it accentuated by a slightly harsh mossy and earthy undertone; hints of amber shine through at times too. Towards the end a gently woodsy undertone is discernible.

The sillage is moderate with good projection and seven hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely spring creation composed of ingredients of impressive quality and nicely structured. 3.25/5

I have a vintage formulation of this - from probably the early 60's. It's in a wasabi colored rubber-coated bottle, much like those light blue colored Youth-Dew bottles. It's marketed towards women, but I find the scent quite rugged and masculine. It reminds me of L'air du Temps or Avon's Topaze, but without neither's sweetness. There's a soapy-mustard smell to it, which just might even be wasabi ( hence, the color of the bottle?). Very fine quality ingredients used here, for sure.