Fleurs de Rocaille
Caron (1933)

Vintage parfum: sparkling floral. My first introduction to aldehydic florals was Chanel no.5, so my first association when I smell an aldehydic floral is to compare it to no.5, but the vibe here is quite different.
Fleurs starts off with a blast of soapy aldehydes and the most cheerful flowers. I get an image of a grand white room filled with vases of every type of flower so no single one stands out.
From the outset this is not no.5. This is innocent, pure, sheltered femininity. Whereas no.5 has a haughty edge, Fleurs de Rocaille has people and walls to keep the unwashed masses away.
The sweet warmth of the Caronade joins in the symphony over time, but does not disrupt the Golden Age scene. I can hear Edith Wharton narrating...
Beautiful and of another time.
This was my grandmother's signature when she was young. It gives me insight into who she might have been before the burdens of womanhood.

I think I don’t like aldehydes, all I smell is soap and not a soap I really like. I truly couldn’t smell any of the other notes, so sad

Aldehyde floral classic construction, Jasmine, Rose, soapy sandalwood etc..
Caron sure does like it's carnations, most I've tried figure this note prominently, it is present here as well, most noticably in the heart, and gives it that classic Caron signature. It has also one of the most shocking and seriously animalic civet I've had the pleasure to encounter, progressively toning down amidst the splendid bouquet and musks.

It is so... beautiful.

Sampled from a very old and bruised up top pure parfum.

By now, almost everyone knows that the times have not been kind to the house of Caron – too many of the current offerings are shadows of their former selves. I can only guess what vintage Fleurs de Rocaille smelt like, but the current EDT offers little to recommend it – ‘inoffensive' being the kind view here.
After touches of lilac, carnation and mimosa done in a light air-whipped style, it shifted into an ambiguous floral foam – both soapy and watery at once – but with an unappealing resinous squeal emanating from its base reminiscent of preparations used to treat wood floors. Fortunately the latter didn't last long, but the feeling of a needlessly buttoned up floral remained.

A slightly sweet, nicely glowing jasmine is the core top note - and top in quality it is indeed, with a hint of gentle sweetness. This as well as the drydown is chracterised by an overarching abundance of aldehydes, giving is a crisp side. In the base a sandal appears, and I also get a honeyed creamy impression that at times takes on ambery characteristics.

All this is beautifully blended of ingredients of highest quality. I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and six hours of longevity. Strangely though, after six hours a slightly powdery resurgence of the honeyed amber provides pleasant transient reminiscences, which last another five hours, albeit extremely close to my skin. And have to apply it very liberally, otherwise it last less long.

A classic of simple structure but of the highest quality. 3.5/5

Yet another super classic floral bomb, with a lot of jasmine, lavender and heliotrope; earth, pollen, aldehydes, sumptuosity and femininity at its best. Slightly honeyed, and increasingly soapy as minutes pass - a floral, rich, powdery and slightly metallic kind of soapy. A hint of citrus at the opening, camphoraceous resins and benzoin on the base. Can't get any more classic than this, in a totally good and compelling way: a safe, confident, classy, well-aged and even kind of austerely majestic floral chypre for elegant ladies (and men). Perhaps unoriginal (or a bit washed-down in the current version), but a solid one.

7,5/10