Reviews of Herod by Parfums de Marly
I've expanded my current interest to locate a tobacco-centric fragrance I can love. Of course, it was suggested I try Parfum de Marly "Herod."
A few people mentioned how this fragrance might be a lovely on a woman. I must respectfully disagree. For me, Herod performs as a rather linear, VERY smoky, tobacco-forward fragrance that wears quite masculine.
On my skin, I detect more incense, cinnamon and ashtray smell/smoke more so than any other notes. Any tobacco I detect is burnt, ashy and very bottom-of-the ashtray smoky.
It's an easy pass.
A few people mentioned how this fragrance might be a lovely on a woman. I must respectfully disagree. For me, Herod performs as a rather linear, VERY smoky, tobacco-forward fragrance that wears quite masculine.
On my skin, I detect more incense, cinnamon and ashtray smell/smoke more so than any other notes. Any tobacco I detect is burnt, ashy and very bottom-of-the ashtray smoky.
It's an easy pass.
Parfums de Marly Herod is definitely one of the most accurate interpretations of a smooth, pipe-type (but with a further more sophisticated glorious floral-woodsy articulation) and subtle soapy-floral tobacco's acception out there. This fragrance firstly strikes due to its claim to represent an idea of super silky (almost rubbery in one of its fleeting effects as well as we see in the central Gianfranco Ferrè for men's stage of development) vest/consistency of pipe tobacco-dominant fragrance which in this case projects also the luxurious (almost liquorous) noble facet a quality tobacco tends as well to express (namely a sparkling/intoxicating, super sophisticated, kind of aristocratic and baroquely floral sort of aura). Soapy frankincense, mild-freshly peppery spices, smooth vanilla, cypriol oil, a silky and languid osmanthus and a general widespread muskiness are all key elements revolving around this dominant pipe-soapy tobacco and working sinergically in order to turn it as a musky, well rounded and soapy affair. I have to say anyway that this rounded tobacco (and I suppose a tobacco flower works as well on its side) is really central in this fragrance and is supported by floral patterns, a touch of toasted smoke and fluidy-mild spices (cinnamon and cardamom in particular) in order to switch a sophisticated and prickly kind of velvety floral undertone under our noses. I don't get in particular any vetiver or patchouli but more properly a sort of suedish/pipe/soapy/plummy-figgy/rubbery/musky woodsy aura which is particularly chic as I equally perceive on others glorious spicy tobaccos a la E. Marinella Tabacco Imperiale (or several floral decadent tobaccos). Vanilla and cinnamom in particular provide an almost gourmandish honeyed twist a la Tom Ford Tabacco Vanille (in particular along the central stage of the trip), turning the tobacco in to an almost edible form (but never overwhelming the final dominant pipe tobacco vibe). I have to say anyway that Herod is more subtle, sophisticated and well calibrated than the more yummy/vanillic Tobacco Vanille under my profane nose. Along dry down the floral notes recedes and a drier noble (vintage and "cultured") pipe/cigar tobacco vibe (a la Teatro Olfattivo di Parma Bell'Antonio or Montagne Tobacco Noir) keeps lording alive and kicking. Performances (in particular its projection) are moderate on my skin. An adulthood refined fragrance perfect to be worn in front of a fireplace while reading a book with a glass of whisky and talking confidentially with profound and learned persons.
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I’m sure many can relate to having that one fragrance that just does it for them. I don’t care what anyone else thinks when I wear this. Fortunately, it has a very appealing vanilla base and is inoffensive.
I get that not everyone loves tobacco as a fragrance, but there is just something mesmerizing about the way this is constructed. The bottle is gorgeous too. I know PDM is expensive, but if you watch for it on the grey market, there are occasional steals. I got my backup bottle for an insanely cheap price!
I get that not everyone loves tobacco as a fragrance, but there is just something mesmerizing about the way this is constructed. The bottle is gorgeous too. I know PDM is expensive, but if you watch for it on the grey market, there are occasional steals. I got my backup bottle for an insanely cheap price!
Jammy tobacco. Dried figs dusted in cocoa. Chewy and sweet, powdered. Rich, warm and pleasant.
UPDATE: Three hours in and I’m addicted. The initial splash of dense sweetness has given way to sexy woody man musk. I smell like I’ve been making out with a sweaty, pipe-smoking lumberjack and I AM HERE FOR IT.
UPDATE: Three hours in and I’m addicted. The initial splash of dense sweetness has given way to sexy woody man musk. I smell like I’ve been making out with a sweaty, pipe-smoking lumberjack and I AM HERE FOR IT.
A cinnamon soaked flower surrounded by plum-tobacco on a bed of earthy vanilla and spiced transparent woods.
Intoxicating.
If this is what osmanthus smells like, then I want to smell more osmanthus: sort of like animalic jasmine.
Surprisingly, Herod smells less like an edible confection than I feared. It is sweet, but the depth and complexity of the fragrance stop it becoming sickly sweet.
For me, any more than four sprays is overwhelming. Longevity is about ten hours and projection is good.
If Red Tobacco by Mancera is too much for you, or too synthetic smelling, then give Herod a go.
9/10
Intoxicating.
If this is what osmanthus smells like, then I want to smell more osmanthus: sort of like animalic jasmine.
Surprisingly, Herod smells less like an edible confection than I feared. It is sweet, but the depth and complexity of the fragrance stop it becoming sickly sweet.
For me, any more than four sprays is overwhelming. Longevity is about ten hours and projection is good.
If Red Tobacco by Mancera is too much for you, or too synthetic smelling, then give Herod a go.
9/10
Parfums de Marly has REFORMULATED Herod. I own an older formulation which has an alcohol concentration of 78%. The new formulation I see in stores has 81% alcohol. My formulation is a dark orange / amber color. The new formulation is a very light, faint orange in color. The new formulation does not last as long and it smells different. Parfums de Marly fragrances are ALWAYS getting reformulated and become much weaker than their ORIGINAL releases. Parfums de Marly HAS NOT been transparent when it comes to the reformulation of their fragrances. Carlisle, Layton & Oajan have also been reformulated and have 3%-4% more alcohol in newer batches.
A light and fresh vanilla with a bit of tobacco and a bit of spice, but doesn't come off 'edible' or gourmand to my nose - mostly like a bright, pale yellow color.
As it dries down, some of the heartier notes come up - the tobacco becomes more prominent, there are mild hints of vetiver. But I think the note I notice most is Iso-E-Super.
If you're into thick, rich tobaccos or creamy, dreamy vanillas, Herod will surprise you with its softness and subtlety. The note of Iso-E-Super means that you will get a nice, pleasant sillage. But when I put almost any other scent on one wrist, and Herod on the other, after smelling the first wrist, and then smelling the wrist with Herod, I smell almost nothing at all - it's that light. Yet I will draw compliments wearing this. So again, it's a very Iso-E-Super experience in that respect.
I think I just expected slightly more from PdM. The tobacco is very light. The vanilla is very soft. And the Iso-E-Super gives it that sugary cedar vibe. To my nose, it's not a wonderful blend. Just ... well - I think 'bright, pale yellow' is the best I can do to summarize Herod.
As it dries down, some of the heartier notes come up - the tobacco becomes more prominent, there are mild hints of vetiver. But I think the note I notice most is Iso-E-Super.
If you're into thick, rich tobaccos or creamy, dreamy vanillas, Herod will surprise you with its softness and subtlety. The note of Iso-E-Super means that you will get a nice, pleasant sillage. But when I put almost any other scent on one wrist, and Herod on the other, after smelling the first wrist, and then smelling the wrist with Herod, I smell almost nothing at all - it's that light. Yet I will draw compliments wearing this. So again, it's a very Iso-E-Super experience in that respect.
I think I just expected slightly more from PdM. The tobacco is very light. The vanilla is very soft. And the Iso-E-Super gives it that sugary cedar vibe. To my nose, it's not a wonderful blend. Just ... well - I think 'bright, pale yellow' is the best I can do to summarize Herod.
As someone who thinks PDM is an overrated brand that came out of nowhere and became popular in high-end department stores, I find this fragrance to be pleasant with its vanilla tobacco scent. However, the cinnamon note doesn't sit well with me. The performance is impressive, which is typical of most PDM fragrances. But if I were to spend PDM prices, I'd prefer to go for something like Tobacco Vanille or another vanilla-ambery scent.
Ultimately, it's your money, and you have the right to hype up this brand if you so choose.
Ultimately, it's your money, and you have the right to hype up this brand if you so choose.
Bold gourmandish opening. In lines with hanae mori. Gets dollopy sweet towards mid notes. Basenote is, much more tolerable. Nice in fact.
I do not prefer these type of gourmands..however I can imagine how this is more of personality based choice than anything else. Would smell great in parties and on females
I do not prefer these type of gourmands..however I can imagine how this is more of personality based choice than anything else. Would smell great in parties and on females
A very generic vanilla tobacco gourmand scent, not much different than other vanillas scents but for the price. The tobacco pipe is sweet and aromatic and blends perfectly well with the vanilla and the spices. There is a warm filling around which makes it very cozy as if you were sitting in your armchair in front of a fireplace reading a book with a glass of cognac. The scent warms up after a while and projects a nice pipe vanilla scent. Not a groundbreaking scent but a very nice scent to wear.
Sweet cinnamon, vanilla, tobacco scent that fits into the TF Tobacco Vanille genre, but less powerful and easier to wear. This is leaf moist tobacco, leaning gourmand as it opens. It has a earthy, vetiver-patchouli base which comes forward late in the dry down. Very pleasant, crowd pleaser, niche quality tobacco scent. I like it, but prefer a less sweet and more aromatic type tobacco fragrance, such as Creed Tabarome. Still a Thumbs Up and worthy option.
This scent is another essence of sex fragrance (Boomerang film reference). You have tobacco, vanilla, cinnamon and it just smells so good. It's masculine but also sweet and sexy. It is a bit more subdued in power than Tobacco Vanille. I consider this one more medium powered but my girlfriend loves this one too and says she ranks this one alongside Tobacco Vanille as the sexiest scent I have.
ordered a bottle of Percival from the same house, and a sample of Herod was included in my package. I was familiar with the scent but had never worn it, and had only been quickly introduced to it. At the time, my first impression was that this was way too sweet/gourmand for my personal taste, with obvious prominent notes of vanilla and tobacco.
Well, when sprayed on my skin, the first minutes took me on an odd world of childhood memories, as this smelled somewhat like vanilla play doh, but in an inexplicably good way. I do get somewhat of a metallic aspect to the scent as well, especially within the first few minutes. When Herod dries down, it however becomes much more interesting: warm spicy accords blend into the mix, and give it some depth, especially through the amber note.
Anyone familiar with the PdM "DNA" will find itself in familiar territory, here, with this strong, well-built, somewhat-sweet-but-not-quite-gourmand creamy vanilla-driven base that bears and effective spicy accords.
I couldn't help but think about Carlisle (from Parfums de Marly as well), which is one of my signature scents (during fall and winter), which also has a strong vanilla note and accords that do bear some similarities with this. They are distinct scents without a doubt, but those who say that Carlisle smells like Herod and Layton's love child are not totally wrong.
To me, Carlisle is such a more complete fragrance, in that it takes you on a journey where notes that would seemingly make it a plain gourmand scent instead blend unexpectedly (green apple and vanilla, nutmeg, rose and tonka bean) and give you this warm feeling that's both mesmerizing and comforting, but that also makes it so much more sophisticated than some super sweet, one-dimensional "apple pie" scent.
Herod is no one-dimensional "apple pie" scent, and in no way smells sweet in a cheap way, but to be honest, everything I like about it, Carlisle does better. Or, at least, Carlisle takes you to a similar place at some point through its dry down, then takes you to even more enchanting places. So, where Herod settles down an unveils its depth, Carlisle is just passing by, and its journey then goes on towards a much nicer destination with much more to see (to smell, actually). Again I need to insist that Herod is not a shadow of Carlisle, but the DNA and fundamentals have indeed a lot in common.
That's just my opinion, and seeing how popular Herod is (moreso than Carlisle, it seems), maybe Herod yet has to grow on me some more. But, again, frags that are mainly of the gourmand type are just not really my cup of tea in general.
Performance is good, although a bit sub-par compared to other outings from this house. Percival and Carlisle both perform tremendously better than this. That's not to say that this is not decent-lasting, or that this does not project satisfyingly. It does.
Overall, I'd say that this is a very good sweet/spicy fragrance that is too gourmand for my personal taste. If that's your thing, tobacco, vanilla and cinnamon blend delightfully, and spicy accords jump into the mix a bit later to make things interesting. However, you should absolutely give Carlisle a try before spending a couple hundred on a bottle of Herod, because I really have a hard time trying to even imagine that anyone who likes this would not absolutely fall in love with Carlisle.
Well, when sprayed on my skin, the first minutes took me on an odd world of childhood memories, as this smelled somewhat like vanilla play doh, but in an inexplicably good way. I do get somewhat of a metallic aspect to the scent as well, especially within the first few minutes. When Herod dries down, it however becomes much more interesting: warm spicy accords blend into the mix, and give it some depth, especially through the amber note.
Anyone familiar with the PdM "DNA" will find itself in familiar territory, here, with this strong, well-built, somewhat-sweet-but-not-quite-gourmand creamy vanilla-driven base that bears and effective spicy accords.
I couldn't help but think about Carlisle (from Parfums de Marly as well), which is one of my signature scents (during fall and winter), which also has a strong vanilla note and accords that do bear some similarities with this. They are distinct scents without a doubt, but those who say that Carlisle smells like Herod and Layton's love child are not totally wrong.
To me, Carlisle is such a more complete fragrance, in that it takes you on a journey where notes that would seemingly make it a plain gourmand scent instead blend unexpectedly (green apple and vanilla, nutmeg, rose and tonka bean) and give you this warm feeling that's both mesmerizing and comforting, but that also makes it so much more sophisticated than some super sweet, one-dimensional "apple pie" scent.
Herod is no one-dimensional "apple pie" scent, and in no way smells sweet in a cheap way, but to be honest, everything I like about it, Carlisle does better. Or, at least, Carlisle takes you to a similar place at some point through its dry down, then takes you to even more enchanting places. So, where Herod settles down an unveils its depth, Carlisle is just passing by, and its journey then goes on towards a much nicer destination with much more to see (to smell, actually). Again I need to insist that Herod is not a shadow of Carlisle, but the DNA and fundamentals have indeed a lot in common.
That's just my opinion, and seeing how popular Herod is (moreso than Carlisle, it seems), maybe Herod yet has to grow on me some more. But, again, frags that are mainly of the gourmand type are just not really my cup of tea in general.
Performance is good, although a bit sub-par compared to other outings from this house. Percival and Carlisle both perform tremendously better than this. That's not to say that this is not decent-lasting, or that this does not project satisfyingly. It does.
Overall, I'd say that this is a very good sweet/spicy fragrance that is too gourmand for my personal taste. If that's your thing, tobacco, vanilla and cinnamon blend delightfully, and spicy accords jump into the mix a bit later to make things interesting. However, you should absolutely give Carlisle a try before spending a couple hundred on a bottle of Herod, because I really have a hard time trying to even imagine that anyone who likes this would not absolutely fall in love with Carlisle.
It starts with a cinnamon blast combined with a wood note in the background. After a shike the tobacco develops, a tobacco not very strong, a bit sweetnand blending in well. Some incense arises , with labdanum and osmanthus adding more gentle spiciness.
The base adds a vanilla-base sweetness that enhances the caramel, with a woodosness lingering in the background, including a cedar impression. Some nagarmotha adds a more spicy note again, with a soft patchouli-vetiver duo adding a green and slightly fresher and green touch. Some iso e super adds freshness, which is given added depth by lashings of white musks.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and an impressive eleven hours of longevity in my skin.
This is a pleasant autumn gourmand, reminding me of similar products other houses. Less intense than Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford, a bit less spicy than L' Occitane's Eau de Beaux, it is more linear and somewhat more generic testimony to such types of gourmand scents. 2.75/5
The base adds a vanilla-base sweetness that enhances the caramel, with a woodosness lingering in the background, including a cedar impression. Some nagarmotha adds a more spicy note again, with a soft patchouli-vetiver duo adding a green and slightly fresher and green touch. Some iso e super adds freshness, which is given added depth by lashings of white musks.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and an impressive eleven hours of longevity in my skin.
This is a pleasant autumn gourmand, reminding me of similar products other houses. Less intense than Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford, a bit less spicy than L' Occitane's Eau de Beaux, it is more linear and somewhat more generic testimony to such types of gourmand scents. 2.75/5
Test wearing from a 5 ml decant -
I wouldn't categorize this as a masculine tobacco frag. For me it is just another overpriced unisex, sweet, honey, tobacco, blah blah blah...add it to the long list of frags riding the coat tails of Tobacco Vanille. I am a huge tobacco fan, so this has been on my list for a test drive. No doubt this will garner many compliments, so if that is your goal, go for it.
2 stars.
I wouldn't categorize this as a masculine tobacco frag. For me it is just another overpriced unisex, sweet, honey, tobacco, blah blah blah...add it to the long list of frags riding the coat tails of Tobacco Vanille. I am a huge tobacco fan, so this has been on my list for a test drive. No doubt this will garner many compliments, so if that is your goal, go for it.
2 stars.
A middle-ground sweet tobacco fragrance, both in quality and composition, offering a step-up for those who want a little more tobacco and niche-y flair than that offered in the likes of Spicebomb.
To me, it's closer to Chergui than just about anything else (Chergui both more vivid and more cloying than Herod, though they're both on the "too sweet" side of things for me), but without the not-very-mainstream hay note. So what you get is an ambient honey-sweet fog without much definition. Herod needs a stronger central accord to distinguish itself in the sweet tobacco category, because otherwise it feels like a Rorschach blot in which you can glimpse many other tobacco fragrances but lacks identity of its own.
To me, it's closer to Chergui than just about anything else (Chergui both more vivid and more cloying than Herod, though they're both on the "too sweet" side of things for me), but without the not-very-mainstream hay note. So what you get is an ambient honey-sweet fog without much definition. Herod needs a stronger central accord to distinguish itself in the sweet tobacco category, because otherwise it feels like a Rorschach blot in which you can glimpse many other tobacco fragrances but lacks identity of its own.
What to say about this one. At first, smells similar to Reyane Wild Insurrection II and Mugler Pure Havane.
Contrary to those, it does morph, away from gourmand, rolling tobacco, honey sweetness and liquor into a more classical, cigar like tobacco with myrrh and a mild, but still churchy incense.
In a late stage an ambery cypress comes in, and a surprising heavy black vanilla deep down below. The cigar note that I felt could get troublesome because it's quite pungent, diminishes just enough at just the right time. Crazy.
Even later you get a fruity note, likely the "iso E super". Then a nice animalic musk.
I was not expecting that this late so many notes could still pop up. For me this is the first scent ever that does this. Like some chemist was hired and engineered these unveiling processes into Herod. Just based on that alone, it's already a positive from me.
I wonder if now this vetiver that I'm getting over half an hour in will really be the final note to come out?
Contrary to those, it does morph, away from gourmand, rolling tobacco, honey sweetness and liquor into a more classical, cigar like tobacco with myrrh and a mild, but still churchy incense.
In a late stage an ambery cypress comes in, and a surprising heavy black vanilla deep down below. The cigar note that I felt could get troublesome because it's quite pungent, diminishes just enough at just the right time. Crazy.
Even later you get a fruity note, likely the "iso E super". Then a nice animalic musk.
I was not expecting that this late so many notes could still pop up. For me this is the first scent ever that does this. Like some chemist was hired and engineered these unveiling processes into Herod. Just based on that alone, it's already a positive from me.
I wonder if now this vetiver that I'm getting over half an hour in will really be the final note to come out?
The opening of Herod is really nice, quite similar to TV but with a bit of that nondescript PdM DNA. I've tried Layton and Oajan and there is a commonality among the three that I find hard to pin down. The opening also projects strongly. I put a single spritz on my wrist at first before a full wearing and even that was still giving me strong wafts.
Sadly, that strength only lasts a couple hours on me. It quickly quiets down and the scent morphs a little bit. At the 2.5 hour mark it starts to smell more like a very soft version of MM's Jazz Club. For some that may be a plus. Jazz Club grossed me out however, and while not 100% the same, this reminds me too closely of the things I don't like about it.
People call PdM a glorified clone house. And in sense they're right with Herod. It's simultaneously a clone of two well-liked tobacco scents. They do each half justice, and it ends up a nice scent on its own terms. But for the price, I'd rather just have a small bottle of TV.
Sadly, that strength only lasts a couple hours on me. It quickly quiets down and the scent morphs a little bit. At the 2.5 hour mark it starts to smell more like a very soft version of MM's Jazz Club. For some that may be a plus. Jazz Club grossed me out however, and while not 100% the same, this reminds me too closely of the things I don't like about it.
People call PdM a glorified clone house. And in sense they're right with Herod. It's simultaneously a clone of two well-liked tobacco scents. They do each half justice, and it ends up a nice scent on its own terms. But for the price, I'd rather just have a small bottle of TV.
This is a gorgeous woodsy vanilla. The tobacco is less full-on than Tobacco Vanille - TV is a rich spicy vanilla pipe tobacco but Herod is at another level in terms of interest and complexity with the floral notes. Plus, the tobacco is less old-man-ish and intense, and more subtle. Herod is expensive but it's an outstanding winter scent - it's interesting enough to wear several days in a row, but not so over powering you get overwhelmed and sick of it. Definitely one of my all time favourites and a top ten.
I enjoy this fragrance more than Tobacco Vanille. Herod is like a 50/50 mixture of Tobacco Vanille and 24 Gold EDT. The opening to mid is smooth vanilla pipe tobacco mixed with gourmand fruits (cherries and raspberries) packed in a luxury leather pouch! Herod's dry down is almost identical to Eau des Baux: dry and peppery with cinnamon. Longevity, sillage and projection seem modest, not as boorish as 24 Gold. Herod earns a place in my top 5.
Great tobacco fragrance...
I had heard a lot about this one. A very nice tobacco fragrance which is enjoyable and has a vanilla and cinnamon vibe here which I love. Very luxurious and satisfying and one which I believe is perfect for formal and the cooler seasons. The tobacco is sheer and it manages to give a dry, almost humid feel to the fragrance but at the same time is great when combined with the cinnamon and vanilla. I would recommend this to people who like a good take on a well-made tobacco fragrance. Really good.
I had heard a lot about this one. A very nice tobacco fragrance which is enjoyable and has a vanilla and cinnamon vibe here which I love. Very luxurious and satisfying and one which I believe is perfect for formal and the cooler seasons. The tobacco is sheer and it manages to give a dry, almost humid feel to the fragrance but at the same time is great when combined with the cinnamon and vanilla. I would recommend this to people who like a good take on a well-made tobacco fragrance. Really good.
similar to tobacco vanille, but lighter and a touch of cinnimon. slightly spicey and would wear well in the cool to cold months.
I have a cold right now, and I also got a "tester" bottle of this -- so I'm not sure if either of those are contributing to what I'm getting here...but first, right away it reminded me of Versace's The Dreamer. No similarity to Pure Havane or TV whatsoever -- none. Second, it seems to be very weak. Like really really weak. Not sure if that's my nose or what...hopefully I'll update this in a few weeks and figure out what's going on here. Neutral rating, for now. IDK, it just reminds me so much of The Dreamer and I get virtually no tobacco whatsoever either.
Initial thoughts... wow this smells like Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford... at least in the start with a slight oudish vibe. The Cypriol in this juice takes it in a different direction compared to TV. Overall I do find it to veer in a sweet direction with less tobacco and more of a musky sweet dry down. Overall I do like it and would recommend it for sure with a TRY BEFORE YOU BUY due to being similar to TV by TF. Enjoy!