Reviews of Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

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I was very fortunate to have come across two vintage bottles of Kouros for a steal many months ago, a 50mL splash from roughly 1986 to 1990 and a 50mL spray from roughly 1981 (the year Kouros was launched) to 1985. You won't have to twist my arm at all for me to lay some cash down for Kouros, particularly early formulations at the bargain price I got them for. Today I decided I need to do the real test on skin, after already testing them on blotters after I purchased them to verify they were in good shape. I will expound a bit about how these compare to the newer formulations from c. 2010 on (under the constant eyes, prying fingers, marketing wonks and spreadsheets of L'Oreal), but also how time and age have treated the same perfume produced at nearly the same time but in two different application formats.

On my left arm is the splash, and on my right arm is the spray. What I immediately notice is that the spray releases the top notes of coriander, sage, and artemisia in louder volumes. It is a pretty noticeable difference, but hardly a big difference. This does make the spray come across as a little bit more bitter, spicy, and sweaty than the splash, which, because these notes are a bit subdued in the splash by comparison, gives more room for the lavender note in the splash. This sort of animalic, herbal and very bitter, and sweaty accord, which calls to mind a dry ambrette seed accord, is toned down quite a bit with newer formulations. The new favor the easier note of herbal lavender. The artemisia and herbal bitterness is so loud and sharp in both the splash and the spray that I'm pretty sure I've gone somewhat - or even mostly - anosmic to it by the time both approach the first stage of dry down. In the splash the opening accord lasts longer, probably because the perfume went on my arm more thickly. After about two hours I'm still smelling it with the splash while the spray on my right arm has almost fully transitioned into the heart notes of florals and spice - geranium, and a lot of equal parts carnation and clove. The splash catches up soon to display these notes as well, but seems to favor the clove more; the splash feels a bit fuller, more warm and well-rounded somehow. It is definitely obvious by this point, putting the two vintage bottles into the same group to compare with recent formulations, the newer formulations are a bit harsher, less warm, less well-rounded. Sure, this is due to a tweaking of the formula and the use of different materials to express those top and heart notes over 30-40yrs, but there is another big reason for the difference that we shall get to in a second.

By the time both the splash and the spray reach their final dry down to the base notes, the same notes are being expressed and that slight difference of the splash being smoother and well-rounded still continues. In both of these formats - as if you weren't challenged yet allured by Kouros already - the base notes take the perfume into the next gear, where the critical components of base materials you have been smelling all along are revealed like Pandora's Box slowly opening. In both the spray and the splash the base composition - consisting of a massive dose of civet, a rich honey note, resinous incense, and salty and swampy vetiver - will be found as either divine or appalling. To me, obviously, it's the former. Kouros is an animal, it wants to be an animal, it wants to smell like an animal, and it pushes these notes to Spinal Tap volumes of 11. These notes have been with us all along, supporting those top and heart notes and flanking them ever so perfectly as to pull some of their more unique facets into the forefront. Finally, it must be said, in the vintage splash and spray there is oakmoss. Real oakmoss (hallelujah!). This note is the glue holding all of this animalic, sweaty body odor, indolic craziness together, and it is glorious. Earthy, damp, green, and woody, it prevents Kouros from descending into complete and total unflushed-urinal territory, making sure the whole is greater than the sum of the individual parts. Recent formulations obviously do not have oakmoss since the heavy hand of our overlords decided we cannot be trusted to manage our own allergies. As of yet no synthetic substitute smells like the real thing; some get relatively close, but none get close enough. In effort to make modern formulations of Kouros easier to handle and more polite for 21st century noses the civet, honey, incense, and vetiver are dialed back from Spinal Tap 11 to a more modest 6 or 7 - and now, because they are now most assuredly some type of synthetic material, they are also less attention grabbing. The absence of real oakmoss and the inclusion of "tree moss," a synthetic, is apparent and that glue doesn't hold as well.

Here is the long and short of it: I don't know if the splash vintage or the spray vintage are a bit different from each other because of the application format, because YSL's program of Franco-style quality control might have lapsed a bit between batches in the 1980s (shocking supposition, I know), or because of how each bottle was stored for the past 30+ years. The answer is going to be all-of-the-above to varying degrees. Of the vintage splash and spray, and the recent formulation spray I have also worn, I like the vintage splash the best. But who cares. You shouldn't. A vintage bottle of Kouros in good condition is going to be a perfume to treasure no matter what the format. And as for the new formulations - despite the meddling of L'Oreal and the extraordinary challenges of materials and costs restrictions - I have to give YSL kudos. Perhaps they are afraid to change it too much because they know their corporate office would be attacked in droves by the faithful foaming at the mouth - but at least the droves would smell great. Some bores are going to be asking about performance. Fine. For an EdT, particularly by today's standards the longevity is very impressive, and it fills the room and releases a sillage like a carpet bomb (or a pet bombing your carpet). I performed this test before going into the office, a bold move - and maybe a bit rude, yes, I know. Why would I want to subject my coworkers to this perfume that many find appalling. Well, I don't find it appalling, and it actually got me a great compliment today. If you don't wear Kouros with confidence, it is going to wear you - and that won't be pleasant for anyone. I love this perfume. A true classic.
8th May 2025
289680
This early 80's warhorse still gives a kick in the pants!
I remember seeing/smelling a squaddie in uniform
standing by the door on a train an age and a half ago.

He must have had a bath in Kouros given the enormity of his
aura. It was almost suffocating but simultaneously intoxicating.

It has more than a little to do with Pierre Bourdon's fusion
of both super-clean (powdery) and dirty (very!) notes
that gives this seductive invention it's extravagant allure.

Back in the day I'm sure I was just as guilty of over-application....

I loved it then and love it still. A resilient masterpiece.


14th March 2025
288060

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If you’ve never yet smelled Kourous (especially those early OG temples), take every last metaphor, simile, hyperbole, and anecdote you’ve ever read on Basenotes, Fragrantica, and any remote somewhere-else and… when you savor that first smell, you’ll paradoxically confess that it was not at all what you had imagined, yet absolutely everything that had been described.

Pleasurably confounding. You owe yourself a happily unsolvable puzzle. Don’t cheapen the mystery. Splurge.

OG Charles of the Ritz/YSL Parfums Corp are worth your dare.
16th January 2025
286855
Dirty. Skanky. Lewd. And absolutely fantastic.

I get why this is polarizing. It's a lot. But this is my favorite flavor of perfume: beautiful, floral top notes with funky, animal, pissy base notes. Think Jicky (my all time favorite). Or Bal a Versailles.

Don't wear this to the office. It's sex in a bottle. (Or I don't know. Maybe wear it to the office?)
6th December 2024
284967
Musk! I feel like feeling myself today. This juice was made for that purpose: it highlights the musky, animalic, sweaty scent of a male body in motion, freshening it up without occluding it. It feels dirty and clean at the same time.

The opening is a blast of bitter artemisia and bergamot absolute and coriander and clary sage and civet, lifted off the skin by some sparkling aldehydes. Then comes a floral mid that is redolent with jasmine, orris root, geranium and a soapy lavender that smooth out the journey before we get to the most interesting territory: the base. Here, patchouli, amber, musk, leather, and the characteristic honey note all come together to give it a heady “Oriental” vibe, while the vetiver, coumarin, and a biting oakmoss vie to keep it civilized… but just barely.

Pierre Bourdon did something truly original here that has never been repeated. It is a consummately abstract creation, yet it’s compellingly suggestive of sweat and showers and unmade beds and musky bodies in heat. Kouros continues to ignite our senses and our imagination after four decades. The fact that it’s still a bestseller (at least in Europe), attests to this fact.

It is a work of genius, even in its current, neutered form, and I love it.
1st December 2024
285311
Like walking in grassy fields on a lovely day in Spring... while carrying a dirty urinal bowl. Love it or loathe it kind of smell. A must-sniff for all fragheads nevertheless. The juice in this late 90s bottle by Parfums Corp/Sanofi projects like an absolute beast and lasts 8+ hours. I once applied 6 sprays before going for a walk, thinking I wouldn't meet anyone I know, and bumped into a couple of friends - pretty sure *they* needed a shower afterwards.

The modern formulation tones the pissiness way down; it's more wearable, but still one of the most animalic designer fragrances still in production. If you want something stronger than the current version, I suggest the vintage aftershave which by today's standards is very strong, and still sells for low prices.

Masculinity Level: Conan the Barbarian.
18th August 2024
282741
Judging on some of the comments I've read this truly is a love it/hate it fragrance. I fondly remember the first time I purchased it back in 1988. That's when I just started getting into fragrances, but what did I know at the age of 17? I remember how unusual it smelled and how long it lasted and also the fact that I was NOT too crazy about it then. Young and dumb definitely. Fast forward all of these years later I now have 3 bottles from the Parfums Corp era. This time period definitely holds it's own against anything Sir Charles could come up with. However my mission in life is to locate a first formulation bottle and pull the trigger. Costs be damned!! This is the KING. Undisputed and no current formulations allowed because it's truly a shell of its former self with the base notes almost nonexistent. No thanks I'll stick to the tried, true and Best thank you.
8th February 2024
277754
Someone recently mentioned they noticed I had never written a review on Kouros. By George, I have not! Well, I honestly felt there really wasn't much more value I could add to the conversation. What can I really say that hasn't been said already? It seems concensus in most fraghead circles that it's a (gay) icon, an institution, the KING. Who am I to disagree? I enjoy it a great deal, too. I have decants of older formulations, a non-silver shoulder recent bottle, and I don't want to pontificate on superior versions, inferior versions, Charles of the Ritz, real civet (eye roll), this and that. It's moot. Look below.

What I can say though is this pet project by Pierre Bourdon where he pushed the limits of where Animalis and costus root can go in a perfume has created a legend—often copied, never quite duplicated, and it has its place in the corps d'elite of perfumes. It was THE new wave in 1981 and I can only imagine how hot it was smelling this on all the writhing male bodies in clubs during the decade.  I would just rather spend my time writing about other fragrances that are owed their due. Kouros has a whole lot of love, and I am just dropping in to share my love. 
3rd November 2023
275381
I get how people smell an antiseptic cleaning vibe from this. It smells like an industrial nightmare. My vintage bottle is well preserved, but out of over 150 bottles in my collection, this one is the worst smelling. Vintage Leather Oud is challenging, but is my favorite scent. My tola of Hindi Oud is fecal on the opening but oh, so delicious. I love challenging and animalic scents. Kouros is as unbearable as Secretions Magnafique. Truly awful. Why people like this is beyond comprehension. I've had this on for three hours today. Excuse me while I get some bleach.
17th February 2023
269869
I love the 80s version of Kouros, the one that smelled quite bit more dirty, a bit more complex and was more powerful. I remember it from my dad. I recently bought the modem version and it's not the Kouros I love. It somehow smells OK but it's like a shadow of its former glory.

Over the modern version I prefer Ted Lapidus pour Homme or Al Rehab Lord. I will buy some clones, maybe they are closer to the power of the original. Here I am thinking about Milltown Lloyd The Man Silver and some oil from Amazon I discovered on Basenotes and which some reviewers said it is as close to original Kouros as possible.

I got that they are required by laws to change the composition since some ingredients are forbidden. However the forbidden ingredients have replacements that smell exactly the same. So I don't get why they didn't replaced the banned ingredients with equivalents and instead diluted Kouros so much that no one who liked the original is happy with it. If they wanted something less offensive and more modern they could have kept Kouros close to the original and make a new snowflake version Kouros Light or whatever.

Original version: 10/10
Modern version: 6/10
25th December 2022
267914
Sure that if you try Kouros and you are a modern "male", accustomed to those sweet and cloying metrosexual scents that smells like pastry and make you look like a cream puff filled with vanilla cream and covered with cinnamon .... and well, I don't I will certainly wait for words of appreciation.
The fact is that Kouros is a masterpiece, period. A perfume, certainly, son of another era but which, today, still inspires many creations of that niche segment.
Charles de Riz version, 81-86.
He opens strongly with vaguely sour, aromatic and green hints, accompanied by strong soapy aldehydes that taste clean. The scent is constantly supported by the slightly dirty musky base, by the leather and by a vaguely sweet note but which is not sweet. The overall result is a clean dirty smell, but which is not dirty in the true sense of the word, but rather carnal and corporal. On the other hand, as Bourdon himself declared, this perfume is the son of a particular phase of his life, deaf and ambiguous, marked by carnal and faithful passions, a period in which the same perfumer was struggling between lover and wife; in the light of these anecdotes, this creation can well be understood and interpreted.
Beautiful, really beautiful and unique. Brilliant. For me, an eternal nostalgic for the past, growing up with my father who used all those men's perfumes from the 1970s and later, Kouros represents (together with other classic or classic-style masterpieces) the perfume par excellence that a male should still have. today.
For sure to try, in the original version of course. I don't know how the new one is and I'm not even in a hurry to test it since I have a good supply of the original 80's.
Definitely masculine, 100%, but I would love to smell it on a woman. Good longevity and nice projection / sillage for the firs hour, than it sits on the skin, i would say adeguate for these kind of fragrance.
13th October 2022
265239
Hate it or love it, but you can't dismiss its august pedigree. This is a masterpiece, plain and simple. However, this doesn't mean its meant for everyone! This is an extremely polarizing scent particularly in the current fragrance climate of gourmands and aquatics and weak crowd pleasers flooding the shelves. This is alpha male powerhouse stuff. If you haven't tried a perfume with real sandalwood or civet try a sniff of this juice in the vintage bottle if you can get a sample, you'll be blown away by the sheer intensity and high quality and the pristine blending and depth of this majestic edt. But no point in breaking the bank for a vintage either, if you could get it at a reasonable price go for it otherwise get the current formulation as many keen reviews mention that even the current version is pretty decent.
(I have a 20 ml left in a 2000's bottle pre
Ingredients-on the-box era, I got it from a online seller at the regular Retail price of the time).
9th October 2022
265071
Though I love Kouros, it does not smell what I would characterize as “good”. In fact, it’s quite rank as those things go. Yet I can’t turn away.

If even possible to do so, it smells like arm hair. Not underarm, mind you; rather, forearm hair. No, it’s not all that pleasant, but sometimes don’t we want an aroma that isn’t? Just me? Yeah, it usually is.

It sure seems as though I smelled this all over the place when I was very young. Thing is, though—I simply wasn’t all that young when Kouros debuted. So it must have an older smell-alike out there. But I’ve yet to find it.

In some ways, it’s my absolute favorite fragrance. But there’s no way I’d be caught dead outside the house with it on.
25th September 2022
264645
The crown obviously became too heavy!! This is what you would call a 'woke' version of so called King Kouros. This 56 year old man used to pinch borrow his older brothers kouros, gentleman Givenchy, Polo etc....
This version of Kouros and 2 bought this week online and Dept store smell the same little animalic odour ...Yes It can be worn for work no problems, It Is weak projection and longevity and synthetic as hell...however I still love it. Ted Lapidus kicks it for pungency and Boss number one beats it for natural acceptance on the nose and I have both types of bottles ..new bottle smells the same btw as the square ribbed bottle. Believe me this will be the new King but long live the king, the king is dead...I'm stocking up on Hugo because it is the number one now for OL' SCHOOL designer animalics. But kouros still gets a thumbs up, however wish I had a vintage.
25th March 2022
257018
Just recieved a 2013 Edt, one spray on neck at work and It lasted about an hour, then became a faint skin scent, but I was smoking a cigar, so I may have missed a bit. Fast forward a few hours at home, beard sprayed, neck and hand. This fragrance is great--smells like Loban incense from India. Initial blast takes me to a Texas icehouse dive bar men's room, the one with the long, 12 foot urinal. After that, I get a lot of floral, woody, powdery incense and a faint leathery musk also. I love this stuff, I put 3 hefty sprays on before bed too. I will definately be blasting myself with this and a half a spray of Ajmal dahn al Shams oudh. Body Kouros is the next fragrance to be tested. Incidentally, I have come across alot of incense from India with this almost exact Kouros scent. The one I have now is Loban agarbatis(stick incense) Natural Loban Agarbati by, Shah or Rue E Loban by, Shah industries. My local Indian grocery store carries both.
12th February 2022
254005
I just sprayed my forearm with this and it's triggering that time I got sprayed by a male mountain lion. Tried getting it off with hand sanitizer but it's not budging.
23rd September 2021
247915
For me there is nothing divisive about Kouros, it is a fantastic fragrance pure and simple. A masterpiece by Pierre Bourdon that since it was released 40 years ago has been steadfastly popular, masculine and beautifully blended. I can only speak about the older formulation however, as my bottle is circa 2006. My bottle has lasted me so long because Kouros is a strong performing fragrance and it is a bold fragrance for certain occasions and moods. I first smelt Kouros on a sample card attached to a magazine advertisement back in the late 1980s. I was an adolescent at the time and Kouros captivated me. I thought it was strong, masculine, sophisticated and sexy. 30 odd years later and I still love it.
While many people notice the civet, which can be off putting for some, there is actually a lot going on in Kouros. In the opening the oakmoss is strong along with some citrus and aldehydes. Of course there is that powerful musk that starts to kick in from the opening, along with the tonka bean. The sharp opening settles down and the scent becomes more powdery and the floral notes come to the fore, tampered by leather and a hint of cinnamon. All of it is perfectly blended in a way that you would expect from a perfumer who had mastered his craft.
I find Kouros to be a strong and confidence inspiring fragrance. I would not wear it to the office or close work occasions. It is suitable for a date night, parties or just weekends when you want something confident, bold and complex. The oakmoss in the opening may make this fragrance take on a dated vibe, but the dry-down of this scent can compete with the best contemporaries. Kouros lasts all day on my skin, again I'm reviewing an older formulation, and the projection is excellent. One of the favourites in my collection.
29th July 2021
246029
Kouros by Yves Saint Lautent is heavy, animalistic and has features of chypre perfumes. It is essentially timeless and expresses masculinity in the terms of Ancient Greece.

Kouros is loaded with animalistic notes (musk, civet, leather, honey) that make up this carnal leading accord. In this leading accord, aromatic herbs and aldehydes with flowers are immersed.

Aldehydes are in the foreground. Metallic, watery, sharp, clearly in the style of years gone by. This is Kouros' hallmark, its impossible to forge staple. The green, covered by moss layer gives the blend a primordial masculine character. The green accords present in the mixture are cold and surrounded by gray sage. The base, on the other hand, gains a little bit of resinous, warm amber tones.
25th August 2020
233170
Just an absolute beast ass kicker of a fragrance, very strong very masculine, beats the piss out of anything made today ! But it is definitely not for everyone so look at the note break down compare to fragrances you like/own/currently wear before you buy it or get a sample for e legitimate test run. Kouros is in my top 3 fragrances for life ! An amazingly close dead on 99.9% clone of kouros for only 9$ is “The Man Silver” by Milton Lloyd. Get it on eBay or amazon or Milton Lloyd website it's so cheap and of such high quality lasts for 24 hours on me
24th April 2020
228548
I'm not too big into classic men's fragrances in general. Often things with oakmoss or some other classic notes tend to come off very soapy to me. But, I also haven't really tried too many, so I figure I should.

Still, it comes as no surprise to me that Kouros isn't for me. The strong civet note and the soapiness of the oakmoss combine to create a kind of urinal cake smell when up close. And really that proximity is the issue. It's not something where you can put your wrist up to your nose and take a sniff (something I love to do with my favorite fragrances). It's definitely better from far away, which is just not my style.
8th September 2019
220887
Nuclear pink urinal bricks.
6th September 2019
220815
Male goats smell good. But only to female goats. For human noses, try Antaeus. Sorry Kouros.
1st July 2019
218415
Similar to Aramis, only better. Less dry, I think.
27th June 2019
218236
My thumb is barely up, mostly sideways.

I've tried both a vintage version (from the 90s) and the current version (as of 2019).

The vintage is indeed "dirtier." Kind of nauseating actually. I wanted to experience the legendary "gladiator jock strap" odor of this thing and... well... be careful what you wish for. It's just not very pleasant. I don't get any urine or fecal smells. It's just kind of ew.

The current reformulation is actually somewhat better to my nose. It has a more incense quality. Still keeping the animalic notes but masking them a bit with spice. Only in the drydown will you experience what the original was and by then it's a skin scent where it belongs.

Both have excellent longevity.

I was looking for something that was bold and outrageous and unapologetically masculine, but the original is just kind of gross. It doesn't smell so much like a sweaty guy as it does a dead animal dipped in potpourri.

If you want to try this, go ahead. But don't get upset if you can't find the vintage stuff, and certainly don't spend big bucks for it. It's not actually wearable in public whereas the new stuff is. Barely.
23rd April 2019
215736