Les Absolus d'Orient Encens Mythique
Guerlain (2019)

Encens Mythique by Guerlain (2019) is a slightly retooled re-issue of the same fragrance released in 2012 as part of the L'Absolus d'Orient collection; originally this had been part of a different collection and named "Encens Mythique d'Orient" and sold in a much smaller 75ml bottle, while here it is upgraded to 125ml. This is one of those really polarizing fragrances that people tend to question when its commonly around, then mourn the loss of when there is a discontinuation scare (real or just caused by Guerlain not sending bottles off to online sellers); so like many things these days, Encens Mythique's reputation is solely based on how rare it is by perception, and whether people obsess over it or not is based on whether they can get it easily without paying high prices on the second hand market. Shame it's come to this, but it is that way with much of the Les Absolus d'Orient collection anyway. Also, yeah... Encens Mythique is perfectly unisex.

What makes this interesting is it isn't a study of oud or patchouli like much of the collection, but rather a focus on olibanum and rose over an ambergris-based musk profile with saffron and pink pepper. At times this reminds me of a rosier Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur (1999), a fragrance that used hyraceum contrasted by sweet and aromatic in the way this treats ambergris. The opening of Encens Mythique starts off with a lot of aldehydes and soapy rose, with the saffron and pink pepper entering behind them. The pink pepper here is very loud, which is a contentious part of the fragrance as it was a note overused for some time in the mainstream perfume space, with the olibanum, patchouli, and ambergris-type musk following into the finish. Vetiver here appears last and assists the smoke of the incense, sharpness of the pepper, and plays with the soapiness of the rose. Performance is ethereal with mercurial sillage, but lasting.

Hermann à mes Côtés me Paraissait une Ombre Etat by Libre d'Orange (2015) is the only contemporary thing to it that comes remotely close, but builds differently and has a darker, sweeter character, meaning in the end that Encens Mythique is pretty unique. The thing that really builds this fragrance is the interplay of the soapy aldehydes, rose, pepper, and dry incense over the semi-animalic musk and saffron note, making a ghost of a virile amber accord anchoring the more piquant elements. This is the kind of thing that is both suggestive and also proper, the ambiguity of the mood it sets, alongside the sensational "bigness" of the overall projection, as comes then goes from your awareness, meaning Encens Mythique is a deceptively assertive attention-getter even if the sum of its parts seem mostly mild-mannered on paper. As I said, this is not like the rest of the line, and that makes it all the better to my nose. Thumbs up

Sampling Guerlain Encens Mythique, part of Les Absolus d’Orient collection, released in 2019 (not to be confused with Encens Mythique d’Orient of the L’Art & La Matiere collection, released in 2012). Its mix is curious, a blend of incense, rose, pink pepper, saffron, aldehydes, patchouli, saffron, and ambergris, and I find that its most prominent modifiers are the saffron—which has a chameleonic variability in fragrance—and ambergris. Beyond the incense/rose/patchouli center, the saffron gives the mix almost a sense of dark or red berries, complemented by the saltiness of ambergris. So while its base formula is not super unique, it does have some nuance that distinguishes it from other similar entries.

This is EDP concentration and I’m actually uncertain of its retail pricing since I cannot readily find it on the Guerlain or a specific boutique, department store, but rather, only on discounters, priced as modestly as $100 for 120ml on Jomashop.

Overall, I think it’s quite nice without being too striking, albeit very reasonably priced per above. This could easily be someone’s favorite incense scent, and it’s nicely put together and performs quite well.

7 out of 10

"I must go down to the sea again, the lonely sea and the sky..."

This has the exact smell of approaching the seaside, traveling through a salt marsh before arriving at the sandy beach - seaweed, driftwood, beach lavender and rugosa roses gone wild, salt water spray off a rock jetty where there are barnacles and some rotting sea life, both animal and vegetable. Encens Mythique is certainly unusual, unlike anything I have smelled, not a safe blind buy except for the adventurous. I think I love it, but I'm not sure how often I will reach for it, nor if it is a hot or a cold weather scent.

An outstanding release among Guerlain's Les Absolus d'Orient collection (along with Bois Mysterieux), Encens Mythique is another example of the alchemical synergy between olibanum (incense) and rose, here further lionized by sparking aldehydes and what is rumored to be a fair dose of genuine ambergris tincture.

A bold, sensational fragrance, what sets it apart from others in the collection is that it isn't nearly as reliant on the amber accord that runs through all others in the line; it's apparent, but play second fiddle to the aforementioned accord, letting it flourish and radiate, and what a bold accord of maestoso. There is almost this effervescent quality that is addictive, seductive even. While some so-called incense fragrances may set the tone of solemn reflection and introspection, many for which are among my favorites in the category, Encens Mythique is more celebratory and ebullient in its demonstration of sacred effluvia ::wink::.

I would be remiss without mentioning how breathtaking the musky, desiccated woods, almost like driftwood, and salty ambergris in the dry down is as it lingers on the skin for hours. This marine quality with the base notes of the olibanum resin really makes this Wasser's magnum opus, unparalleled in its grandeur and beauty. What a fulfilling wear...

Accompanying song: Simply Red "Stars"

Encens Mythique surprised me in the shop – here was a retro-seeming soapy floral with the incense truly a thing of myth; it seemed to be playing peek-a-boo in the far distance. Another surprise was how fresh the aldehydic opening was considering this was supposed to be an incense-based composition. Trying it at home, the freshness whizzes past faster and the soapy-floral theme unwinds languorously; at first the impression is of a white floral before a resolution towards a kind of almond-and-vanilla custard kind of rosiness. The incense seems only present as a touch of spice rather than smokiness; you could be forgiven for thinking it was a carnation note in this floral bouquet.
So much for the deflections of this perfume. What I enjoy about it is how unabashedly out-of-fashion it is, mumsy and proud about it, with an almost gourmand density. In that latter aspect, it comes across a bit like Nahema's quieter sister.

I fell for it at first smell. The incense in this is “vintage floral” and soft and soapy. I usually don't like soapy but this is different. Performances are good!