L'Heure Bleue
Eau de Toilette, Guerlain (1912)

Comparison of new batches of L’Heure Bleue Extrait, EdP, and EdT.

This enthusiastic vintage hunter curiously doesn’t own a vintage L’Heure Bleue, an oversight I hope to correct in the near future with a bit of good luck (and quite a bit of cash). This legend is coveted for good reason. Fortunately, I haven’t found a critical need to chase after one since Guerlain has kept LHB in solid shape. Gratitude and commendations to them and Thierry Wasser for that. There are some differences to the vintages, of course, and there should be, but LHB’s DNA and identity are firmly intact in new formulations. The biggest differences between the new and the old is the precision of the floral heart, which is clearer and sharper in new formulations, and the vintages are more generous with animal musks lending them to a sweeter and more civety feel in the dry downs.

Sticking strictly to the new formulations, here are the key differences between them. The first, no surprise, is the speed with which they progress. The EdT being the fastest, it reaches its dry down in a couple of hours - which is quite a bit faster by at least a couple of hours compared to vintage EdTs. It’s cheap, so don’t worry about it; lather yourself in it and you’ll get an on-par experience for today’s EdTs. The EdP is the second fastest, reaching its dry down in about four hours. This is on par with vintage EdPs and what you should expect from today’s EdPs. Finally, the extrait is the slowest, reaching its dry down in about 8 hours. This is definitely quicker than vintages, which took about ten, but it is on par with today’s extraits. Notably though, the top notes of the extrait dispense very quickly, within an hour; this is unusually quick for an extrait of any period.

While we’re on the subject of top notes, there lies the most perceptible difference between the three new formats. The EdT is mostly bitter and sour bergamot, with a fleck of anise. The EdP gives the same bitter and sour bergamot but better rounded and cooled off by tarragon, sage, touches of coriander, and the citrusy floral of orange blossom. The extrait is the most bracing of the three. The sour and bitter bergamot is virtually the same but the anise note is turned way up. This makes the extrait stand out quite a bit from the other two as darker, spicier, and woodier. This experience aligns, I believe, with vintage versions I have tried and are recalling to memory, but that is likely irrelevant since the age of vintage versions will mean most of those top notes have died off to some degree.

In the heart they are virtually the same, and smell like LHB has done for a very long time. The quietly beating heart of LHB is what makes this perfume so special. Red and fleshy roses; creamy and spicy carnations; powdery and dry orris and violets; benzoin of the base and the carnation harmonizing to a quiet note of cinnamon like a thread running through the perfume. The EdT’s heart is more monodimensional than the extrait’s or the EdP’s, opting for more of the creamy and spicy carnations and a white floral amalgam in comparison to the extrait’s and EdP’s less abstract and more dynamic presentations. Very good nonetheless. The extrait pushes a bit more jasmine to the front than the other two. Every time I smell LHB’s heart I get vivid images of a bouquet in a very old and dusty home that has seen more than its fair share woeful tales. The heart is eerily quiet and dark, but yet gentle and affectionately soft at the same time.

Near the end of the day, the EdT is long gone from my skin, having moved to a skin scent of earthy tonka, sweet and woody benzoin, and powdery orris many hours ago. Simple and very pleasant. The EdP just tucked in about a couple hours ago, having gone in quite a different direction. Creamy sandalwood, peppery cedar, sweet benzoin, and a good dose of green vetiver. The extrait is finally at its skin scent, with its base comfortably between the two, most notably with an absence of green vetiver, opting for more warm woods and orris. Though the extrait and the EdP are a bit different in their dry downs, they have enough in common to be called the same, and for me this dry down is one of the best in perfume history. It’s gorgeous.

So there you have it, new LHB in a nutshell, quick and dirty. Which one you prefer is entirely up to your tastes and need for practicality. All three are wearable any time and any place, even the extrait - though bigger, louder, and richer, it is never too much for any particular setting. However, practically, it’s likely cost prohibitive for the vast majority of us. Your choice, and there’s no better or worse choice. It’s L’Heure Bleue after all, one of the best of all time.

I'm in the definite minority when it comes to the reknowned L'Heure Bleue: a resounding thumbs down. I've tried to cozy up to this fragrance because 1) of my namesake, and 2) I owed my lineage some loyalty. However, I didn't like it when I was saturated with LHB at church in the 50s and I still dislike it. Simply put: It brings to mind what a "Gilded Age" fragrance might smell like---decadent and over the top; cotton candy sweet. LHB reminds me of the Visconti film "The Damed": the atmosphere there so heavy with medacity and decay, that only an equally heavy fragrance would provide relief.

I think it's the heliotrope and vanilla at equal strength--one might work, but not two of them together. That said, I have so many others in the Guerlian family to love; I don't have many regrets about not getting along with one family member. I know that LHB will always have a following.

Brief top notes, flow into the heart. Well-blended - hard to pick out individual notes. Like the EDP, it's flowery and spicy. Grows heavier, weighted with more floral intensity.

Purple flowers whirled into a mix of vanilla and benzoin. Again, just like the EDP. Maybe, a tad "thinner"? Tonka smashes into the other notes and seems disguised. A classic Guerlain if there ever was one.

Amber-oriental accord lingers on later and forever.

The opening blast is a fresh-sweet balance game, with the aniseeds sweetness being brightened up by bergamot and a bright neroli - the result balances both very well.

The drydown adds floral notes, with a geranium touches up with whiffs of oleander. Both are not really green notes, but soon an iris is added in that has a greenness attached to it.

Turning to the base, the floral theme continues for a while, expressing an additional violet impression that combines with a good dose of benzoin. This is quite a soft benzoin that is never sharp or rough. It goes well with the vanilla/tonka that is added in and that grows to dominate the whole towards the end, with a slight undertone of caramel present towards the end.
Whilst overall a sweet creation, this sweetness is always restrained quite is a civil way and never intrusive or cloying.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and a splendid twelve hours of longevity on my skin.

A beautiful scent for cooler spring or warmer autumn days or evenings. A bit lighter than the Eau de Parfum and the extrait, its performance is not lagging behind very much. The quality of the ingredients is superb and the blending beautifully done. 3.75/5.

This for the current EdT. Lighter and less dense than the EdP (as expected) with almond-croissant vibes rather than smooth, deep florals. A fun and very wearable version.