Lys Méditerranée
Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle (2000)

The most overtly solar soliflore Malle has ever given us, in my opinion, and likely the last at this point. I'm not sure I understand the Mediterranean reference as this doesn't strike me as Mediterranean coastal at all. There is a humidity and saltiness to this that makes me think of a lily in the South Pacific. Thankfully the sea water notes in this are not huge doses of screaming calones like it is in so many marine-note perfumes; it's a lot more tasteful than that. The bright and salty hesperidics at the top string down to a green heart of angelica, and, of course, lily. But there is quite a bit more besides. Orange blossom is well-accounted for in the heart, and I also want to say there is some neroli and ylang-ylang as well. White floral, but with a strong citrusy and tropical bent that does not quite lend itself strictly to lily. It's a bit too green, a bit too citrusy, and a bit too fresh and bright to really be a sumptuous and sweet lily accord. It comes across as botanical and very natural, but at the same time it's abstract because it's clear Flechier wanted to string the various notes of lily together without actually using much actual lily material. The final dry down to the base is a very pleasant sweet and soapy musk accord that, to me, is the most overtly "lily" note so far in the perfume. As a whole, I thoroughly enjoy Lys. It's breathtakingly pretty, and, a unlike the majority of Malle perfumes, it is remarkably simple and straightforward; no tricks, no need to heavily interpret anything, the abstraction is easy and never distracts from the mission, and it is incredibly easy to wear. A simple and lovely perfume made with excellent care and materials; you can't get an easier win than this.

Now this is just ok to my nose. Its a super fem lactonic, slightly salty white floral. White florals are king here, its all about white florals. Its almost like a coconut lotion with a white floral mix. Slightly reminds me of Carnal Flower, but this is more calm and easy breezy. Imagine drinking coconut milk, smelling a white floral bouquet, and sitting near pacific ocean.

Alchymia. Perfumare. Magnum Opus.

A Pungent Chemical Cocktail

On paper “Lys Méditerranée” is little more subtle and alluring than on my skin. So, I have to assume, that the overwhelming positive reviews are due to “Lys Méditerranée” behaving on other people’s skin closer to what I smell on the paper, although this is not enough for me.

Still, this is the closest I have gotten to liking a Frederic Malle perfume. Initially, it starts gently and I am happy, but very soon it turns into a heavy, almost pungent and boring solid block of discombobulated chemicals at odds with each other. And this is not just a matter of opinion. The pyramid is clear about it – all of the listed lily of the valley, marine notes, water lily and musk are synthesized molecules. It is to them that I attribute the impressive lack of development of this fragrance.

And yes, there is something green there, but it fails to become the saving grace for this perfume. The green note, the marine note and the lily note do not create a harmonious whole, while the pressing sweetness from the orange blossom and the vanilla underneath make things even worse, turning this into a challenge, not worth overcoming. Moving on without any regret.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, Lys Méditerranée:
Composition: 5.5/10
Complexity: 6.5/10
Development: 3.5/10
Naturality: 4/10

Creamy lily with flashes of a sea breeze. Predictable but lovely, quiet yet vivid. Proper and crisp from the lily, relaxed at the cuffs. Society types idling on the beach. Upon further consideration, it masterfully blends the soapy-sweet-buttery aspects of the lily with a deeper salty undercurrent. Barely a whisper of powder to be found. Overall, careless and darling.

Flower, land and breeze
How can I separate you?
Let me live in you

I snuck spring into the office today. Looked out on yet another dark dank dreary day and headed for work. With me is this polite scent, riding close to my skin under my jacket up the elevator. I hang my jacket on the back of my chair, inhale deeply -- and magically, in my office is SPRING: scented by blooming of tiger lilies, orange blossoms, muget peeks in later in the day, ferns. and a little ray of sun to brighten my day.
In meetings and conferences as I tuck my chin in my hand as if considering some topic, and take a discreet sniff or two and try not to smile. Still, I'm the only one who knows spring is here.
At the end of the day, I smile as we ride down the elevator and I head back out into the rain and darkening skies of November while enveloped by spring.