This olfactive sculpture is pure 100% nirvana in a bottle. This is a near exact representation of my favourite Japanese incense: Shoyeido’s Nankun Kodō.
It's a composition that is very close to my heart as I created it for my own personal enjoyment of this ancient art form that unfortunately I can't enjoy at home due to my family's dislike of burning incense.
Out of respect for their wishes, I composed this composition after hours of research and experimentation using the finest ingredients possible. I used the exact ingredients as documented about Nankun; however, I added more as some of the documented composition was extremely vague to say the least.
As a result, I had to improvise with the olfactive materials to find a near exact match to the accords I experienced when burning these precious sticks... however, the condition was that the materials I used had to be easily available in Japan over the last hundred years.
I used Ambretollide to enhance the nutty ambrette absolute. This is the only synthetic I used in this composition and represents a mere 3% of the whole composition. I'm proud to say that this composition is 97% natural!
Nankun Kodō fragrance notes
- cinnamon, clove, mysore sandalwood, ambrette, musk, fenugreek, star anise, black cumin, hinoki cypress, blue cypress, heliotrope, frankincense, patchouli, black ambergris, siam benzoin, oud chip infusion
Latest Reviews of Nankun Kodō
Sultan Pasha’s Nankun goes some way towards capturing the Nan-kun burning experience, especially in the combination of the dry, spicy clove and star anise notes with the green, camphoraceous and woody nuances. The one thing it is missing is the crisp smoke notes one gets when burning Nan-kun incense sticks, an aroma that comes close to the pleasurably sulfurous smell of a freshly-struck match. The mukhallat does eventually gain a small degree of smokiness in the later stages of its life, but it is a wisp of sweet, transparent woodsmoke rather than the matte, almost charcoal black effect of the smoke in the incense. Nankun mukhallat was infused with smoke by placing it close to or over a burner with sinking grade oud chips in it.
Highly recommended to fans of high-end Japanese incense and incense ceremonies, meditation, yoga, and so on. For a truly holistic smelling experience, wear this while burning some of Shoyeido’s Southern Wind itself.
At the center of this fragrance is an incredibly complex incense accord that will probably be more familiar to a lot of folks who have utilized real Shoyeido incense, or some forms of burning oud chips. For here you have a lot of spicy/sweet notes coming in and out of focus against a majestic play on cypress, between the blue cypress and its oriental cousin, hinoki cypress. On top of the two cypress notes is a cascade of thick, heavy frankincense, whose warm and spicy character is immediately familiar to anyone who has ever encountered high quality frankincense before.
Just underneath the frankincense is the most interesting contrast of cypress notes that I have ever encountered, so much so that one could call this a thesis statement on the holy material. When one looks close, you take notice that the blue cypress brings with it a deep, rich woody effect that teams up rather nicely with the sandalwood below to create an absolutely delicious woody character with a slightly minty and slightly fruity character to it. The hinoki on the other hand brings about more of a dry, almost sauna like character, with a slight terpenic nuance, and somewhat of a herbal/lemony/spicy/warm undercurrent that hits against the wall of blue cypress where the two meet. Between the two dances a series of spicy/warm notes like a particularly licorice tinged star anise, cloves, a maple syrupy cinnamon, cloves, and a somewhat creamy patchouli. There is also a very quiet, yet most delicious marzipan accord which is deepened intensely by a strong musky/nutty character that is as confusing to describe as it is enjoyable to behold.
It's very warm, and yet very foggy at the same time, which really allows one to see the Zen influence being drawn in - all at once this fragrance is begging you to go towards nature: enjoy the trees swaying in the wind, the fog in your lungs, the dirt at your feet, even the dew on the shrubs, and yet at the same time with the spices moving about, the warmth from the sandalwood, and the crisp high definition ambergris at play, it is drawing your attention to the beauty and practices of a humble mankind tapping in to the divine. There is a sweet milkiness after some time that seems to permeate the incense accord such that the dense tranquility of the forest opens up to the soft and gentle hug of the regality of being itself. This fragrance does that which I truly love in fragrance - it mirrors the content which it speaks on - this fragrance is all that I remember from the true buddhist temples I have visited - it's about the tranquility of No Mind, but at the same time it is an abundant love of all that is, by recognizing the truth and beauty present in the totality of man's connections here on Earth. This is at the same time sweet, spicy, smokey, warm, cool, dense, soft, woody, and more... This is a fragrance that learns to 'be' with you, as you too learn to 'be' both with it and with yourself.
10/10
YT: Jess AndWesH
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Now the longevity was only two hours each time on my skin from two wearings and the scent is very subtle bordering on undetectable. You just get subtle wafts here and there. Now I like this scent but it's more of a artistic fragrance experience than something you would wear as a fragrance. If I wanted to smell this type of scent I would just light one of my Japanese incense sticks and enjoy a stronger incense experience. Though I take my hat off to Sultan Pasha for this realistic artistic creation, it actually does smell like Japanese incense and in that it's a achievement!
After three hours I'm experiencing a beautiful, smooth forest-y incense and there's a quality of naturalness coupled with fine craftsmanship that lets me know I'm in good hands. It smells different at different distances from the source and is constantly modulating. I haven't been tracking the progression carefully, but in addition to incense and forest, I've sensed some dark, salty licorice, the herbal smell of the traditional Chinese medicine concoctions my acupuncturist tips down my throat and, closer to the skin, pencil shavings
I'm excited to have ten more of these to enjoy because what is apparent already is that these attars deliver on the promise of fragrance - to take the wearer on a journey even as daily life continues; to add an element of mystery, beauty and unpredictability to the most mundane of days.
Oooo, as I'm sitting here writing this, it's starting to sweeten and I'm getting whiffs of a creamy lemon frankincense (plus real mysore sandalwood?) that reminds me of my current incense queen - Maria Candide Gentile's Exhultat. It's kind of just tickling my nose with this sweet incense modulating with a dark licorice aspect and my feelings may be shifting from appreciation to something more like love and I'm just entering hour four!
This is my first experience of genuine mysore sandalwood and after eight hours I'm still getting these gorgeous whiffs of sweet creaminess alternating with piney incense.
This morning, nearly 24 hours after application, I lay in bed with my nose pressed to my wrist just breathing it in. Each breath seemed to have a different scent, piney incense, an almost minty, camphorous aspect and that sandalwood - sweet, creamy and somewhat milky without being foody in the least. If anything it reminds me of the sweet acacia that blooms around my house in its tender botanical sweetness. Sooooo good and I can never get a full sniff of it. Just a tickle so I'm never sure if it's real or if I imagined it.