Reviews of No. 88 by Czech & Speake
I well remember smelling this early on—it was a cold day in 1986 and I was at the Jermyn Street mothership. A fan of the house’s Neroli and Frankincense and Myrrh, I was eager to smell another one of the house’s pillar scents. I found it to be totally unique, out of sync (in a good way) with current trends at the time, and an embodiment of the quality that is associated with all things Czech & Speake. It has largely been siloed as a Victorian/Gothic/Vampiric/Dark Broody Rose scent and that is not too far off. All that said, I do not happen to like the smell of roses, especially not in masculine fragrance, so this is a bit of a miss for me. I can appreciate it, but simply would not want to wear it. In addition to the dominant rose note, there is the definite snap of geranium leaves and a luxurious grounding of vetiver and sandalwood which brings it closer in line with a traditional masculine fragrance. There is a strong link to Penhaligon’s Hamman Bouquet which is truly a Victorian throwback and—for me—equally unwearable. I did work for several years with a colleague who wore this every day. On him it smelled fine, particularly towards the end of the day. For me, I will leave this to the latter-day Victorian dandies and Goths. Beautiful packaging.
No. 88 by Czech & Speake (1981) is the house-founding original fragrance that moved the brand into scent after being a bathfitter for years. This fragrance line was originally introduced as room scent and toiletries line to accompany the brand's traditional Victorian-style bath fittings, but then the scent side of things sort of took on a life of its own, sitting equally alongside the bathfitting side of the business oft-forgot (or not even known) by fragrance enthusiasts. With the success of No. 88, perfumer John Steven would eventually become a mainstay for Czech & Speake, then would be contracted to do fragrances for other niche UK fragrance houses, most recently doing work the influencer-owned Naughton & Wilson, spearheaded by Dan "MrSmelly" Wilson. Here with No. 88, we see a cologne that really isn't in terms of its immense strength; but then again it's sort of the nature of British-based fragrances using the "cologne" nomenclature to not really be cologne in sense we'd think of with light mostly-citrus splashes from France or Germany. An eau de parfum variant also exists, but this review does not cover the differences between it and the cologne.
Instead, we get a sharp, woody, incense-driven rose, sandalwood, and frangipani scent that ends up feeling very close to early work from William Penhaligon or George Francis WIlliam Trumper, despite the brand's insistence that No. 88 in fact moves away from typical English scent traditions. Maybe the traditions of 1981 didn't have English gentlemen smelling of rose, but they certainly did in 1881. In any case, No. 88 would not become anywhere near as well-known compared to other 1981 releases like Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent (1981) or Chanel Antaeus (1981) and the reason for that is the truly niche nature of Czech and Speake themselves, even though they are almost a household brand among UK fragrance aficionados. Folks in the United States would have a similar relationship to C.O Bigelow or Caswell-Massey in that regard, while the rest of the world more or less scratches their heads at the name. The dry bergamot and rose are joined by metallic geranium and the sandalwood pairs in a somewhat powdery way similar to Zizanie de Fragonard (1932), until the incense and vetiver really ground the stuff. As mentioned above, performance is very unlike a cologne, with powerful projection and long-lasting scent that will take you well into the day.
The black very-Victorian bottle and graphics imparts this cologne with a gothic aesthetic, the dense floral chypres and floral fougères of the decade all seemingly having elements of this "seriousness" and "melodrama" in their nature. By the end of the 80's, everyone from Paco Rabanne to Jacques Bogart were picking up what Czech & Speake had put down at the beginning of the era, although you can also say Van Cleef & Arpels had arguably beaten them to the punch anyway with their self-titled pour Homme scent three years earlier. In any case, No. 88 isn't explicitly gendered so anyone can really wear it, I just think that with the trend towards big aldehyde tuberose bombs and swirling animalic rose leathers in the 80's, guys were going to find this first over ladies. Further on down, sweet and watery things began to dominate the fragrance spaces, so the "darkness" this scent is known to possess probably got inferred, there again reinforced by the bottle. A "man's rose" however, this scent is not. Opulent stuff to be sure, but a bit tough to import and expensive to boot. The brand insists not everyone "should" wear their fragrances, and this stuff is proof of that. Thumbs up
Instead, we get a sharp, woody, incense-driven rose, sandalwood, and frangipani scent that ends up feeling very close to early work from William Penhaligon or George Francis WIlliam Trumper, despite the brand's insistence that No. 88 in fact moves away from typical English scent traditions. Maybe the traditions of 1981 didn't have English gentlemen smelling of rose, but they certainly did in 1881. In any case, No. 88 would not become anywhere near as well-known compared to other 1981 releases like Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent (1981) or Chanel Antaeus (1981) and the reason for that is the truly niche nature of Czech and Speake themselves, even though they are almost a household brand among UK fragrance aficionados. Folks in the United States would have a similar relationship to C.O Bigelow or Caswell-Massey in that regard, while the rest of the world more or less scratches their heads at the name. The dry bergamot and rose are joined by metallic geranium and the sandalwood pairs in a somewhat powdery way similar to Zizanie de Fragonard (1932), until the incense and vetiver really ground the stuff. As mentioned above, performance is very unlike a cologne, with powerful projection and long-lasting scent that will take you well into the day.
The black very-Victorian bottle and graphics imparts this cologne with a gothic aesthetic, the dense floral chypres and floral fougères of the decade all seemingly having elements of this "seriousness" and "melodrama" in their nature. By the end of the 80's, everyone from Paco Rabanne to Jacques Bogart were picking up what Czech & Speake had put down at the beginning of the era, although you can also say Van Cleef & Arpels had arguably beaten them to the punch anyway with their self-titled pour Homme scent three years earlier. In any case, No. 88 isn't explicitly gendered so anyone can really wear it, I just think that with the trend towards big aldehyde tuberose bombs and swirling animalic rose leathers in the 80's, guys were going to find this first over ladies. Further on down, sweet and watery things began to dominate the fragrance spaces, so the "darkness" this scent is known to possess probably got inferred, there again reinforced by the bottle. A "man's rose" however, this scent is not. Opulent stuff to be sure, but a bit tough to import and expensive to boot. The brand insists not everyone "should" wear their fragrances, and this stuff is proof of that. Thumbs up
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It is a chilly, rainy, grey late October morning, my first of the season where I am wearing the moccasin slippers, and a cup of coffee couldn't be any more welcoming. I reached for no 88, because it just felt like the right thing to do. It sprays on deep, dark, and delicious, a dense and brooding rose with a somewhat sharp and minty geranium immediately greeting you, with bergamot just lifting it enough so that it isn't a vortex. I am enchanted right away, as a contrast of refined soapy and earthy underbelly is apparent soon afterwards, with this the distinct fragrance of black locust blossoms in full bloom, on the edge of ripeness.
I have my window open to let the cool autumn air in, and no 88 really seems enhanced by this draft coming through, stirring and austere. I chose some shoegazer sounds for my music soundtrack (Slowdive, Auburn Lull), and I have sips of my coffee. This one is really a charmer, sort of an incantation. Over time, there is a dusty wistful vibe, as the sandalwood and vetiver become more pronounced, but the rose, geranium, and florals, they linger, they have not evaporated, the persistence is reassuring, with the only difference being that they have a bit more of incense-like quality, impressionistic and haunting.
No. 88 is an utter delight.
I have my window open to let the cool autumn air in, and no 88 really seems enhanced by this draft coming through, stirring and austere. I chose some shoegazer sounds for my music soundtrack (Slowdive, Auburn Lull), and I have sips of my coffee. This one is really a charmer, sort of an incantation. Over time, there is a dusty wistful vibe, as the sandalwood and vetiver become more pronounced, but the rose, geranium, and florals, they linger, they have not evaporated, the persistence is reassuring, with the only difference being that they have a bit more of incense-like quality, impressionistic and haunting.
No. 88 is an utter delight.
Despite No. 88's reputation as a "dark" scent (mostly a misconception due to its unique black bottle), No. 88 is a masterfully crafted floral-chypre with a fougere structure, that is both long-lasting and projects very well for the best part of the day.
The cologne version in its current form comes across as quite powdery and packed full of geranium. The rose and woods play a supporting role here. In the more recent Eau de Parfum, the geranium and powdery notes are toned down and allow the rose and woods to come to the front much more. This is reminiscent of the vintage version and it results in a much smoother fragrance overall. Both versions have a touch of sweetness due to the frangipani. To me the cologne is a like, whereas the EdP is a love.
From experience, the Cologne works well in warmer weather - the opening freshness from the bergamot and accompanying florals (geranium and rose) make for a welcome change to the traditional citrus-chypre warm weather scent. Conversely, the new Eau de Parfum works well in the cooler months due to the more pronounced woods, but either can be worn so long as they are used in sensible quantities.
All in all, a unique floral-chypre fougere, centred around rose, with a classy character that is totally unisex.
The cologne version in its current form comes across as quite powdery and packed full of geranium. The rose and woods play a supporting role here. In the more recent Eau de Parfum, the geranium and powdery notes are toned down and allow the rose and woods to come to the front much more. This is reminiscent of the vintage version and it results in a much smoother fragrance overall. Both versions have a touch of sweetness due to the frangipani. To me the cologne is a like, whereas the EdP is a love.
From experience, the Cologne works well in warmer weather - the opening freshness from the bergamot and accompanying florals (geranium and rose) make for a welcome change to the traditional citrus-chypre warm weather scent. Conversely, the new Eau de Parfum works well in the cooler months due to the more pronounced woods, but either can be worn so long as they are used in sensible quantities.
All in all, a unique floral-chypre fougere, centred around rose, with a classy character that is totally unisex.
This was a pleasant surprise. I like male rose fragrances, but some of them can be pretty challenging. No. 88 is perhaps the best one I've tried so far. I also like Mad Hat Scents Rosa Resin a lot as well, but Czech & Speake's No. 88 is also excellent! This starts out with the rose and geranium, but I get a strong overall clove vibe with this fragrance that I really love. This actually smells something like Sen Sen to me, or it gives me a scent memory of what I remember Sen Sen smelling like, but it was a licorice and anise smell, not clove. Come to think of it, No. 88 has a star anise vibe like the fringes of Rive Gauche Pour Homme. Don't get me wrong, No. 88 doesn't smell like Rive Gauche Pour Homme per se, but I believe there is a star anise presence of something coming off of No. 88 like RGPH has. This is a wonderful fragrance in my opinion and I think it's one I could become even more fond of over time. One of my favorite so far from the British gentleman genre. Well done Czech & Speake!
This is somewhat intoxicating but sinister, as if it could be the last scent you remember before you die. It's so heavy and humid it's claustrophobic. It seems like a deceiver, a beautiful siren luring you to death. Too much of everything. A heavy jungle scent that lures you inside vines of decadent roses until the vines wrap around you and squeeze out all the life. Suffocating.
No. 88 was the object of one of Turin & Sanchez's most apposite reviews in The Guide, described as something like "instant Victoriana", if memory serves. And that is spot on: I can see this being worn by Pip and the other gents in Great Expectations and other literature set in that era. It's the instant masculine take on florals that gives off this characteristic Gothic vibe. As the scent progresses, there is a slight almondy influence which adds sweetness but never detracts from the freshness of the whole. And the base carries on in the same vein, with vetiver and sandalwood working in harmony to create a dry-sweet accord. Although listed as an EDC, this has much better longevity on me than the other C&S colognes. Direct rivals are likely to be Floris' No. 89, Trumper's Eucris, perhaps something like Encre Noire for its sheer darkness, and perhaps Richard James for that well-healed English thing. This is good, though, and after two days on skin I can easily imagine dropping money on it.
Honestly, it took me a few tries to warm up to 88. It goes on smelling like a fairly typical natural oil perfume - that mix of greens, flowers, and herbs, but 88 wraps its naturals in a chemical sheen that makes everything much louder and brighter than a natural perfume would be. Given time, it reaches a point where it stays most of the day: primarily geranium, with hints of rose for brightness and leafy green herbs for depth. It wears a lot like Brut, not that 88 smells like Brut, but it shares a lot of DNA and has a similar old-school masculine heft and volume, so I think fans of one would probably enjoy the other.
And, for those who care about such things, I've officially received more compliments wearing 88 than I have for anything else in years. One random college girl actually said I smelled like someone's sexy dad, so um, there's that...
And, for those who care about such things, I've officially received more compliments wearing 88 than I have for anything else in years. One random college girl actually said I smelled like someone's sexy dad, so um, there's that...
Stardate 20170309:
A decent traditional cologne with some woody twist.
I am not a big cologne guy and this one performs bad so a neutral.
Others here mention good performance. Maybe this one has been reformulated for the worse like the other ones from C&S when they changed suppliers and moved production to UK from Italy.
A decent traditional cologne with some woody twist.
I am not a big cologne guy and this one performs bad so a neutral.
Others here mention good performance. Maybe this one has been reformulated for the worse like the other ones from C&S when they changed suppliers and moved production to UK from Italy.
As a novice with scents, I am cautious to offer opinions. Many of the components are new to me.
I've never tried RoseOtto before, the opening seemed a bit like patchouli, then showing a keenness of rose; settling into a subtle vetiver and sandalwood partnership overcast by some scents of unknown essence. Very precise. For Holmes not Watson.
I've never tried RoseOtto before, the opening seemed a bit like patchouli, then showing a keenness of rose; settling into a subtle vetiver and sandalwood partnership overcast by some scents of unknown essence. Very precise. For Holmes not Watson.
Nothing special about 88 to me. Smells like an expensive soap. Smells more feminine to than unisex. Not a bad fragrance, just not for me.
Two components are dominant on my skin: a dark, harsh and earthy Vetiver root, and a deep, rich, dark Rose Otto. Darkness concentrated. Geranium provides for glimpses of light, akin to sun rays breaking through the small windows in an old Gothic church. Impressions of incense and of a medicinal licorice are added in the drydown, and the base develops sandal wood that has a waxy undertone. Darkness, Victorian, Edwardian formal assertiveness in a bottle. At times with edges, harshness, and composed of excellent raw material.
Porformance is excellent, with great projection, strong sillage and about nine hours of longevity on my skin. A classic dark woody/floral creation. 4/5
Porformance is excellent, with great projection, strong sillage and about nine hours of longevity on my skin. A classic dark woody/floral creation. 4/5
A dark, humid, camphoraceous masculine chypre centered on rose, sandalwood, bergamot, with earthy-mossy notes and an overall kind of dusty-musky breeze. Dense and slightly animalic at first, shady and strong, not far from classic stuff à la Cabochard, just less complex, more woody and masculine, and without leather, but that is the mood a nostalgic, a bit "heavy" and to be honest, boring after a while, austere and elegant fragrance, quite in a decadent meaning. The drydown features mostly a sort of dark-soapy note with nuances of wet dead roses. Not bad, not stunning, frankly a bit plain and monotone (above all because of a general humid "heaviness), but if you like the few notes, then it may work for you.
6,5/10
6,5/10
Genre: Woods
Pluran mentions No. 88 in his review of Montale's Black Aoud, and the comparison is quite apt. Both are rich, dark, woody rose scents of tremendous intesity. I agree with pluran's assertion that No. 88 is the more complex and rounded of the two. It's more polished than Black Aoud, but that extra polish makes it less arresting than the Montale scent. Both are outstanding masculine rose-based fragrances, but I prefer the blunt savagery of Black Aoud to the sophisticated romance of No. 88. Personal preferences aside, No. 88 is a great scent, and a "must-try" for anybody who assumes that roses are not meant for men.
Pluran mentions No. 88 in his review of Montale's Black Aoud, and the comparison is quite apt. Both are rich, dark, woody rose scents of tremendous intesity. I agree with pluran's assertion that No. 88 is the more complex and rounded of the two. It's more polished than Black Aoud, but that extra polish makes it less arresting than the Montale scent. Both are outstanding masculine rose-based fragrances, but I prefer the blunt savagery of Black Aoud to the sophisticated romance of No. 88. Personal preferences aside, No. 88 is a great scent, and a "must-try" for anybody who assumes that roses are not meant for men.
The first few minutes were just as I had expected: a lightly soapy rose, a hint of geranium. Understated and somewhat Edwardian in style. Picture a dandy in a Homburg, a sharp 3-piece suit and a cravat walking down Bond Street on a cool, crisp morning. But as the rose fades away, what gets left behind paints a completely different scene. The dandy has ducked into an alley and found himself at a little Indian spice stall. I'm talking about dirty-earthy-musky vetiver roots and faintly spiced sandalwood. If you enjoy such masculine basenotes, this could well be your holy grail. Alas, I don't.
I could imagine a vampire wearing this when trying to seduce a woman...not a twilight vampire either but the gothic yet mysterious vampire that can lure you in. This is very gothic smelling it smells like dusky roses on a misty night. Roses on men is not something I would normally put together however this works very well if you are not afraid to flaunt it. It holds a air of mystery about it, masculine yet feminine at the same time. I could think that this would have been big on the new romantic scene in the 80's.
For us baby boomers think: Cashmere Bouquet bath soap circa 1950s. This is a perfect replica and... nothing to sneeze at.
Like stepping out of the shower on a summer day: super fresh with great longevity and character.
Like stepping out of the shower on a summer day: super fresh with great longevity and character.
Superb. I was expecting dark, foreboding, and ominous. What I instead got was pleasant, inviting, lightly oriental, slightly rosey. Longevity and projection are fantastic!
My initial expectations of this have been more than surpassed. It took me a while to get around to ordering a sample and I was trying to keep my expectations low based on other reviews of 88 I've read. I'm a sucker for so-called "dark" scents and was curious for some time about this, being that it is supposedly Ozzy Ozbourne's signature smell and seems to have a reputation of being "temple" or "funeral"-like. However, I tend to dislike many incense smells (while I occasionally burn incense in my house, incense notes in perfume tends to give me sneezing fits).
I definitely get the dark atmosphere 88 conjures for people. But I'm actually very surprised by how fresh it smells on me. Putting it on right after a shower, it doesn't project any kind of dirty aura, but rather one that is, in my mind, clean and refreshing. I chalk this up to the geranium note, which I seem to be getting very strongly on my skin. The rose note is more subdued. I was thinking this would be similar to Montale's Black Aoud, one of my absolute favorites, but, no, these two fragrances are very different, and in a very good way. I live in San Francisco a few years ago and 88 totally reminds me of a scent you get from the head-shops on Haight Street, sweetly mysterious and enticing.
I definitely get the dark atmosphere 88 conjures for people. But I'm actually very surprised by how fresh it smells on me. Putting it on right after a shower, it doesn't project any kind of dirty aura, but rather one that is, in my mind, clean and refreshing. I chalk this up to the geranium note, which I seem to be getting very strongly on my skin. The rose note is more subdued. I was thinking this would be similar to Montale's Black Aoud, one of my absolute favorites, but, no, these two fragrances are very different, and in a very good way. I live in San Francisco a few years ago and 88 totally reminds me of a scent you get from the head-shops on Haight Street, sweetly mysterious and enticing.
It's rare that I place such high expectations on something...and in this case, I was absolutely salivating at the note pyramid. I traded for a little decant through BN and the vial contents smelled amazing, though it really was not enough to cover my wrist. I finally got a hold of a partial bottle on eBay, and BAM. Expectations exceeded.
I am not a 'nose', so I'll give you the dimestore review...
Overtly pungent at first spray - smelling somewhat like the old powdered soap that you would find in a fancy hotel or restaurant in a funnel dispenser. Overwhelming and a bit on the stinky side. My entire olfactory system went on overload and nearly crashed. Thankfully, it only lasted a few minutes, after which the real heart of 88 sinks in and the good stuff emerges. It's pretty masculine for a unisex scent, and I could see a dude in a tux and top hat wearing this while riding a high wheel bicycle past Mary Poppins and the kids watching Burt make chalk drawings on a London sidewalk.
It's classy, but I can also see myself putting 88 on before a concert - or an evening outside on the town. Different from Rive Gauche, but also similar in some ways. It makes me want to shave with a straight razor.
Overall, it's high quality if not a bit short on the longevity. Whatever. I dig the stuff and will probably make it a staple in the rotation during cold midwestern months.
I am not a 'nose', so I'll give you the dimestore review...
Overtly pungent at first spray - smelling somewhat like the old powdered soap that you would find in a fancy hotel or restaurant in a funnel dispenser. Overwhelming and a bit on the stinky side. My entire olfactory system went on overload and nearly crashed. Thankfully, it only lasted a few minutes, after which the real heart of 88 sinks in and the good stuff emerges. It's pretty masculine for a unisex scent, and I could see a dude in a tux and top hat wearing this while riding a high wheel bicycle past Mary Poppins and the kids watching Burt make chalk drawings on a London sidewalk.
It's classy, but I can also see myself putting 88 on before a concert - or an evening outside on the town. Different from Rive Gauche, but also similar in some ways. It makes me want to shave with a straight razor.
Overall, it's high quality if not a bit short on the longevity. Whatever. I dig the stuff and will probably make it a staple in the rotation during cold midwestern months.
A great return! Finally returned to the big 88. The last production for sale (OCT 12) is a perfect synthesis of the first 88 and that produced by Forrester. A magnificent masterpiece suitable to dress a true gentleman with class, elegance and poise. Forget all the latest evidence: this is final and a great come-back.
A must-have. The best perfume ever for a man.
A must-have. The best perfume ever for a man.
sumptuous fragrance, not so easy to wear, but I remember I did like this kind of EdT -with geranium and rose mixed to woody notes-, a very English one. Very longlasting, almost pervading: you must measure it very carefully.
Has one of the more heady, sweep you off your feet, OMG openings I've encountered in a while rich with roses, bright with bergamot, liquerish, with the sheen of some kind of expensive pomade slicked onto a 1920s gent's hair in a marble and gilt Deco salon. A great swirling rush, the kind of perfume hit that the seeker looks for.
Well, it can't stay at that intensity, obviously. What remains is a beautifully judged rose and sweet geranium accord supported by soft billowing sandalwood notes. Substantial, calm and yet pretty horny. The deep base is much tamer and smells a bit stale. A must try if you can bear heavier fragrances.
Well, it can't stay at that intensity, obviously. What remains is a beautifully judged rose and sweet geranium accord supported by soft billowing sandalwood notes. Substantial, calm and yet pretty horny. The deep base is much tamer and smells a bit stale. A must try if you can bear heavier fragrances.
This one has a very oriental aura to me. No 88 makes me think of indian shops, and while i kind of like this aroma, i don`t know if you would feel comfortable wearing it frequently due to this indian shop aura. No 88 starts with a spicy, incensed rose aura. It`s curious that there isn`t spices listed on the pyramid, i do get some mixed with the rose. The rose is sensual, intense, slightly incensed, and it projects over a sandalwood base that is what makes me think of the indian shops. It`s intense at the first 3-4 hours, then it calms down to a soft woody incense aura. This could work amazingly as an exotic incense stick aroma. But for me, on my skin, it doesn`t work so fine.