Reviews of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme by Paco Rabanne
My favorite fragrance of all time. The one that started me on the fragrance journey that has now been decades and a vast collection since I was a teenager. I have several, and all vintage. I’m loyal to this fragrance though APH gets a little more love than it. It, too, is a MUST own for me.
I'm reviewing a bottle I purchased new in 2025.
It's wonderful. It doesn't smell old at all, either AS a fragrance, or for the demographic who would wear it. It's just awesome. If PR put it in a new bottle and released it with a new name and a new ad campaign, it would kill.
It's strong, fresh, green, somewhat soapy, and masculine. I've been on a bit of a kick, blindly buying classic men's fragrances that I've never smelled, or at least never known what they were at the time. It's a fun game to play because /most/ of them are super affordable at discount retailers. This, along with Azzaro and Dunhill have been pleasant surprises.
Pick up a bottle. You won't regret it.
It's wonderful. It doesn't smell old at all, either AS a fragrance, or for the demographic who would wear it. It's just awesome. If PR put it in a new bottle and released it with a new name and a new ad campaign, it would kill.
It's strong, fresh, green, somewhat soapy, and masculine. I've been on a bit of a kick, blindly buying classic men's fragrances that I've never smelled, or at least never known what they were at the time. It's a fun game to play because /most/ of them are super affordable at discount retailers. This, along with Azzaro and Dunhill have been pleasant surprises.
Pick up a bottle. You won't regret it.
ADVERTISEMENT
To those who declaim: “Yea, but”, or “keep mind you, that doesn’t mean that” regarding age-appropriate audiences, “It tastes like chicken…is not a compliment: - Seth Godin. Wear it brightly, refreshingly, cleanly, and proudly. Make a name for yourself! Go OG Van’s checkers.
My bottle was purchased at a dying Kmart somewhere between 2000-2005. The clamshell package sat unopened until a few weeks ago. It's a gorgeously rich, sharp, and clean scent. In the same clean green vein as Houbigant's Navigator but more complex and better assembled.
This is a tale of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme in three generations: 1970s, 1990s, 2010s. Will this settle things once and for all for those whom argue that older formulations were superior? Well, I refuse to make any such claim and will simply share my observations and thoughts on all three.
1970s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The seductive gravity of this classic is immediate. The opening notes, while not completely vibrant—cut this bottle some slack, its nearly 50 years old—are not turned at all: a still effulgent conifer-like rosemary, a green-licorice-snap tarragon, a 'bay rum without the rum' laurel, all here. The lavender, geranium and tonka are all whipped up in heaping globs of clean-shave musk xylene and the like creating a bubbling outward contour of this accord. These musks reveal the quintessence of the classic fougere that would be nearly impossible after the ban on them by the 1980s. And the oakmoss? We must dispel this myth disseminated throughout the online discourse: yes, there is the oakmoss extract, but make no mistake: there's a whole lot more Evernyl as it has been so since its introduction several decades prior to PRPH's release. The mossiness is lovely, for sure, but it's these nitro-musks that drive the legend, exalting the sweet fern core and honey-scented soap bubble. I even get hints of costus. It's epic.
1990s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The sparkly-spiky-pine aldehyde and heavy linalool opening here is mostly absent from the prior version, which may be attributed to age or some adjusting of the formula. Be that as it may, its lovely, and soon thereafter, the savory herbal aromas all are here, a spiced undertone mingling with the lavender/geranium/tonka triad as well. The spirit is still the same, nothing drastically different, as warm and as inviting as ever. The absence of nitro-musks does leave a je ne sais quoi missing, but this is replaced by other musks and fixatives that help hold the shape of it all. There's still that Irish Spring gusto to it, and the mossiness and shade of costus is still intact. It is a delight as well.
2010s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The freshest sparkle and linalool, a strong sillage, and the longest duration of these opening phrases. The herbs fade in slowly, and are a bit more sheer and metallic, but still quite enjoyable. The fougere core is still here! There is a bit more clary sage to my nose, which I will not wave a finger at, I approve. The geranium in the triad is a bit more subdued, which is somewhat unfortunate, but not a total loss. Many like to point out that the Evernia prunastri is still listed in the ingredients, and yes the soupçon is still there, and there probably wasn't much more in prior iterations, so cool your jets, matey, it is and has been mostly Evernyl. It's of course not exactly like the 1970s and 1990s versions, but it is no slouch, it's still radiant in all its autumnal splendor, it mostly is missing the aura of the nitro-musks of the vintage and has be bit less of a balls-deep mossiness and costus. We should be lucky we still have it in production (for now).
Having all three on my skin is quite a trip, I might add.
1970s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The seductive gravity of this classic is immediate. The opening notes, while not completely vibrant—cut this bottle some slack, its nearly 50 years old—are not turned at all: a still effulgent conifer-like rosemary, a green-licorice-snap tarragon, a 'bay rum without the rum' laurel, all here. The lavender, geranium and tonka are all whipped up in heaping globs of clean-shave musk xylene and the like creating a bubbling outward contour of this accord. These musks reveal the quintessence of the classic fougere that would be nearly impossible after the ban on them by the 1980s. And the oakmoss? We must dispel this myth disseminated throughout the online discourse: yes, there is the oakmoss extract, but make no mistake: there's a whole lot more Evernyl as it has been so since its introduction several decades prior to PRPH's release. The mossiness is lovely, for sure, but it's these nitro-musks that drive the legend, exalting the sweet fern core and honey-scented soap bubble. I even get hints of costus. It's epic.
1990s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The sparkly-spiky-pine aldehyde and heavy linalool opening here is mostly absent from the prior version, which may be attributed to age or some adjusting of the formula. Be that as it may, its lovely, and soon thereafter, the savory herbal aromas all are here, a spiced undertone mingling with the lavender/geranium/tonka triad as well. The spirit is still the same, nothing drastically different, as warm and as inviting as ever. The absence of nitro-musks does leave a je ne sais quoi missing, but this is replaced by other musks and fixatives that help hold the shape of it all. There's still that Irish Spring gusto to it, and the mossiness and shade of costus is still intact. It is a delight as well.
2010s Paco Rabanne Pour Homme:
The freshest sparkle and linalool, a strong sillage, and the longest duration of these opening phrases. The herbs fade in slowly, and are a bit more sheer and metallic, but still quite enjoyable. The fougere core is still here! There is a bit more clary sage to my nose, which I will not wave a finger at, I approve. The geranium in the triad is a bit more subdued, which is somewhat unfortunate, but not a total loss. Many like to point out that the Evernia prunastri is still listed in the ingredients, and yes the soupçon is still there, and there probably wasn't much more in prior iterations, so cool your jets, matey, it is and has been mostly Evernyl. It's of course not exactly like the 1970s and 1990s versions, but it is no slouch, it's still radiant in all its autumnal splendor, it mostly is missing the aura of the nitro-musks of the vintage and has be bit less of a balls-deep mossiness and costus. We should be lucky we still have it in production (for now).
Having all three on my skin is quite a trip, I might add.
Masterpiece of the genre. Perfect balance of contrasting notes -- dry herbs (I get mostly tarragon), just a hint of floral soapiness, and a touch of honey sweetness. Now and then there is a little muskiness that gives it just enough masculine edge to keep it from being boring.
The King. Period. This fragrance resonates with my DNA. The epitome of a gentleman's fragrance. Its sporty, fresh, and musky green. I can get some of the notes such as clary sage, lavender, honey, mush, etc. But the sum of the parts is a Green musky and masculine cologne. I prefer this to Polo Green, which isn't necessarily similar but of the same family. PRPH is a must have and yes, the current version is still a dandy! It is everything it should be with excellent longevity and projection. Yes, the closest fragrance to it is Bond no 9 Great Jones, but I prefer the real deal. Nothing else just has this sort of magic captured in a bottle. Pile up and make this popular folks! I only wished there were matching grooming products. This is not date and still very relevant today. So much better than all the ilk offered at the counters today and this is a Timeless Classic!
Found this for £19 / 100ml in a bargain bin at a Norwegian Airport, saw the rating and blind bought. (modern formulation)
This Fragrance is nothing special, but ironically that is why it is well reviewed. Its extremely versatile and quite mature, it is both 'board meeting at the office' and 'sunday afternoon at the clubhouse'.
Those examples probably describe the target demographic for this fragrance pretty well, definitely older guys. As a guy in his 20s - I probably wouldn't wear this any other time than a chill day at the office or a coffee with a colleague/family member.
The scent is green but not particularly fresh - the moss and sage are prominent and well complemented by more muskier tones to create light opening quickly followed by a thick dry down. This isn't a fragrance where projection was a focus, you wont be turning heads with this one. Longevity is pretty standard, 4 - 6 hours.
At not one point does this fragrance feel synthetic which is something I really enjoyed, it feels like I've been bathed in forest water trickling through an abandoned and moss laden herb garden. It also gives big barbershop aromas.
But in my opinion - which is really just a warning for the younger guys - I wouldn't be looking to pick this one up unless you need an office staple and work around older guys. Hence the neutral.
This Fragrance is nothing special, but ironically that is why it is well reviewed. Its extremely versatile and quite mature, it is both 'board meeting at the office' and 'sunday afternoon at the clubhouse'.
Those examples probably describe the target demographic for this fragrance pretty well, definitely older guys. As a guy in his 20s - I probably wouldn't wear this any other time than a chill day at the office or a coffee with a colleague/family member.
The scent is green but not particularly fresh - the moss and sage are prominent and well complemented by more muskier tones to create light opening quickly followed by a thick dry down. This isn't a fragrance where projection was a focus, you wont be turning heads with this one. Longevity is pretty standard, 4 - 6 hours.
At not one point does this fragrance feel synthetic which is something I really enjoyed, it feels like I've been bathed in forest water trickling through an abandoned and moss laden herb garden. It also gives big barbershop aromas.
But in my opinion - which is really just a warning for the younger guys - I wouldn't be looking to pick this one up unless you need an office staple and work around older guys. Hence the neutral.
Elegant, masculine, shaving foam, soapy, musky green and lavender (short) scent. It has a musky base and in the same genre, due to the shaving foam hints it has, it can be compared to Rogue's Mousse Ilumine and, in part, to Polo Green (the latter much more robust and leathery). In general it maintains an aromatic, clean and fresh sensation, almost as if it has just been bleached. It has a good persistence, let's say it covers 6 hours rather easily and it's not a trail or crazy projection perfume, it always remains rather discreet but very present. The vintage version, needless to say, is a completely different thing from the modern one. For lovers of classic and timeless men's, in my opinion, it is an absolute must.
There’s days when I think I could wear Paco Rabanne Pour Homme every day for the rest of my life and be perfectly content. There’s only a handful of fragrances I would say that about and this is one of them.
Much of that has to do with balance. It’s perfectly balanced and manages to be everything, all at once.
It’s dark and deep, while at the same time bright & revealing.
Strong, but it doesn’t shout.
It smells clean with soapy notes, yet contrasts that with “dirtier” notes like Oakmoss, tobacco and a slightly animalic honey.
It’s polite and gentlemanly, but it’s not above a bar fight.
Simple, but also quite complex.
When you think you know it, it reveals something new that you never noticed before.
I wouldn’t bother reading note lists on this one, it won’t get you far. Maybe far off course. Spend time with it and trust your nose.
Like many of the great fragrances, it’s a bit of a shapeshifter and can smell quite different from day to day or person to person.
One day it’s clean & soapy, fresh and invigorating. On another day, it’s all about the herbs. A warm spring day, it might register as a dark, heady oakmoss fragrance, or perhaps on a day when the wind blows cold you’ll think it surely has woods and incense.
Maybe one day you’ll swear there’s rose in there.
And there probably is.
It’s quite a mature scent as well. Confident, wise, sure footed and a bit stern.
Plenty versatile. Works just as brilliantly with a white t-shirt on a Sunday as it does with a 3 piece suit on a Monday.
Cons: It’s probably not that appealing to younger demographics, a better fit for older guys I’d say. A bit too strong in the higher heat of summer. Reformulated over the years. That’s about it.
It’s truly a great fragrance. Is it a masterpiece? Who’s to say. But I’m perfectly fine with calling it that.
*My review is based on older versions of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme.
Much of that has to do with balance. It’s perfectly balanced and manages to be everything, all at once.
It’s dark and deep, while at the same time bright & revealing.
Strong, but it doesn’t shout.
It smells clean with soapy notes, yet contrasts that with “dirtier” notes like Oakmoss, tobacco and a slightly animalic honey.
It’s polite and gentlemanly, but it’s not above a bar fight.
Simple, but also quite complex.
When you think you know it, it reveals something new that you never noticed before.
I wouldn’t bother reading note lists on this one, it won’t get you far. Maybe far off course. Spend time with it and trust your nose.
Like many of the great fragrances, it’s a bit of a shapeshifter and can smell quite different from day to day or person to person.
One day it’s clean & soapy, fresh and invigorating. On another day, it’s all about the herbs. A warm spring day, it might register as a dark, heady oakmoss fragrance, or perhaps on a day when the wind blows cold you’ll think it surely has woods and incense.
Maybe one day you’ll swear there’s rose in there.
And there probably is.
It’s quite a mature scent as well. Confident, wise, sure footed and a bit stern.
Plenty versatile. Works just as brilliantly with a white t-shirt on a Sunday as it does with a 3 piece suit on a Monday.
Cons: It’s probably not that appealing to younger demographics, a better fit for older guys I’d say. A bit too strong in the higher heat of summer. Reformulated over the years. That’s about it.
It’s truly a great fragrance. Is it a masterpiece? Who’s to say. But I’m perfectly fine with calling it that.
*My review is based on older versions of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme.
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme is a well-mannered, masculine classic.
It opens with An aromatic arpeggio of rosemary, sage, and rosewood on top of intertwined geranium and lavender.
A base of honey, amber, moss, and musk emerges after about 45 minutes that is masculine without being animalic.
If Kouros is a bit too much for you, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If the odd sharp note in Caron’s #3 has become annoying, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If Eau Sauvage is a bit too citrussy and soft for you, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If you like to wear masculine fragrances without smelling unnaturally macho, then PRPH is for you.
It opens with An aromatic arpeggio of rosemary, sage, and rosewood on top of intertwined geranium and lavender.
A base of honey, amber, moss, and musk emerges after about 45 minutes that is masculine without being animalic.
If Kouros is a bit too much for you, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If the odd sharp note in Caron’s #3 has become annoying, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If Eau Sauvage is a bit too citrussy and soft for you, then get a bottle of PRPH.
If you like to wear masculine fragrances without smelling unnaturally macho, then PRPH is for you.
MODERN VERSION (2010+)
This is the reformulated version of the 48 year old rugged spicy green classic. It's substantially different from the vintage, much soapier, and much less mossy... different enough to be considered a flanker in my opinion. With that in mind I can appreciate the reformulated Paco as an Irish Spring soap bomb powerhouse that I prefer to Sung Homme.
Warning: If you're looking to replace an empty bottle of vintage Paco, you'll probably be better off with Fragrances of Ireland Patrick.
Masculinity Level: Charles Bronson chopping wood with an axe in The Magnificent Seven.
--------------------------------------------------------------
VINTAGE VERSION (1991-1995)
In honor of the 50th anniversary since its release, I'm reviewing the vintage version of Paco PH. I never post the same fragrance twice, but the vintage is different enough from the current formulation to warrant a separate review. And what better time than its golden jubilee birthday year?
The notes I immediately detect are rosemary, sage, and lavender. Unlike the modern version, the opening is not sharp, not harsh, not screechy as hell. Here the dry-down is an excellent mix of greenness and natural-smelling soap. This is what an aromatic fougere should be. With the contemporary version you don't get any oakmoss and you get smothered by an avalanche of soap.
Projection on this 1990s vintage is decent and longevity is good. By contrast, the current formulation performs like an absolute beast - they smell you before they see you. Make no mistake, it's the modern version that's a powerhouse, not this. Having said that, I don't own the contemporary version anymore. Performance does not trump quality.
Masculinity Level: Still Charles Bronson in The Magnificent Seven, but now he's acting as a human shield to protect the kids.
This is the reformulated version of the 48 year old rugged spicy green classic. It's substantially different from the vintage, much soapier, and much less mossy... different enough to be considered a flanker in my opinion. With that in mind I can appreciate the reformulated Paco as an Irish Spring soap bomb powerhouse that I prefer to Sung Homme.
Warning: If you're looking to replace an empty bottle of vintage Paco, you'll probably be better off with Fragrances of Ireland Patrick.
Masculinity Level: Charles Bronson chopping wood with an axe in The Magnificent Seven.
--------------------------------------------------------------
VINTAGE VERSION (1991-1995)
In honor of the 50th anniversary since its release, I'm reviewing the vintage version of Paco PH. I never post the same fragrance twice, but the vintage is different enough from the current formulation to warrant a separate review. And what better time than its golden jubilee birthday year?
The notes I immediately detect are rosemary, sage, and lavender. Unlike the modern version, the opening is not sharp, not harsh, not screechy as hell. Here the dry-down is an excellent mix of greenness and natural-smelling soap. This is what an aromatic fougere should be. With the contemporary version you don't get any oakmoss and you get smothered by an avalanche of soap.
Projection on this 1990s vintage is decent and longevity is good. By contrast, the current formulation performs like an absolute beast - they smell you before they see you. Make no mistake, it's the modern version that's a powerhouse, not this. Having said that, I don't own the contemporary version anymore. Performance does not trump quality.
Masculinity Level: Still Charles Bronson in The Magnificent Seven, but now he's acting as a human shield to protect the kids.
Try layering this with Jo Malone Wood Sage and Sea Salt...it makes sense. A classic, southern France beach vibe with a modern English beach vibe. Try it!
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme is a classic 1970s fougere, that manages to be very masculine while also being somewhat clean and refined for a barbershop scent. It opens with a strong oak-moss that puts Paco Rabanne in the hairy chest, open collar shirt category. The opening is warm and inviting and there is also distinct musk in there. As Paco Rabanne Pour Homme dries down some nice floral notes (particularly lavender) come through that gives this fragrance a more refined and classy feel, at this point the fragrance also takes on a soapy, clean scent. The fragrance carries the warmth of the amber throughout which I find gives it a comforting vibe. Those who appreciate this genre of fragrance will find Paco Rabanne Pour Homme pleasing, there is a reason why it has stuck around as a classic masculine fragrance for almost 50 years. This is a good fragrance for weekend wear during spring and autumn. It has respectable performance, good arm length projection and it lasts all day on my skin, particularly in cooler weather. Overall a very good fougere, for me it's better than Drakkar Noir but not quite as good as Aramis. It sits confidently between those two classics. I enjoy wearing Paco Rabanne Pour Homme.
I've not been able to try the vintage yet so mine is the current formulation - it's OK but you need to go steady on the spray count or it'll have your eyes watering. Still a familiar smell from what I remember from the 80's, although probably not as good as the vintage. Definitely not subtle but still good.
I used to wear this scent in the late 70's (original formulation). Always received tons of compliments. Fast forward 40+ years and I found a vintage bottle of the EdT on Ebay. Picked it up. Sprayed this morning and what a flashback of wonderful memories. This is a timeless fougere, and the soapy top note is quite accurate. I do not concur with the comparison to Brut (own a couple vintage bottles), which MUCH sweeter. The PRPH is dry...very dry. About an hour later, the woody notes appear, but that soapy sage/greenness still resonates. IMO, some of the 70's scents simply did not age well. Pierre Cardin, YSL Pour Homme, Aramis, Grey Flannel, are some that come to mind, but Paco Rabanne Pour Homme is timeless. Excellent juice.
This 1973 game-changer refined the fougère as we know it. With a likely template that stemmed from 64's Brut Fabergé, Paco Rabanne brought a newer fit to the genre with a soapy green to its laundry floral, along side a dirty, honeyed, mossy chest of musk, that was strictly tighter. Paco Rabanne was the adulated, the emulated, the simulated, and the hated standard for tobacco greens of the seventies, the indolic powerhouses of the eighties, and the status quo scent for men's grooming for decades. Surely, it was the lynchpin, before the 90's Cool Water age ushered a new kind of squeaky for a whole new conservative. Yet, it still trudges along like an aging kingpin in this century, remaining faithfully adored particularly within the barbershop realm and the wet-shaving flock. Described in a nutshell, this is a bottled mantra of a cleanliness is next to godliness' for that steamy butt-wiggling out of the shower feel. Anyone familiar with the Irish Spring advert way back, that featured a rugged, young buck in suds bathing in grassy pastures, sums up the gist and drift. Basically, a disco clean of green with a balsamic soul, Paco Rabanne pour Homme still resonates and remains the figurehead of its fougère class, despite being out of step. All power to it for just that!
Paco Rabanne Pour Homme is a 1973 classic, arriving the same year as Pink Floyd's 'Dark Side of the Moon Album' which has become so iconic and endures to this day. Just like that album, PRPH as a fragrance classic has transcended time and endured musical, technological, and cultural shifts to become iconic and relevant to entirely different generations. Paco PH is a personal favorite, a 'comfort scent' that I'm grateful for.
For me Paco is 'smoky green-soapy-musky' to break it down into phases. All three of those phases are absolutely divine. Starting with the bright, dry, mossy green smokiness becoming transformed with 'Irish Spring' soap, drying down into a seemingly perfect musk. I would be hard pressed to pick which phase is best. To a young nose used to sweet modern scents I would recommend patience and multiple wears to assimilate this dry, anti-sweet, smoky, soapy, green, aromatic fougere. Two thumbs up plus a standing ovation for Paco PH.
100+ wear update: Still standing and applauding with both thumbs up. To me modern is just as good as vintage.
For me Paco is 'smoky green-soapy-musky' to break it down into phases. All three of those phases are absolutely divine. Starting with the bright, dry, mossy green smokiness becoming transformed with 'Irish Spring' soap, drying down into a seemingly perfect musk. I would be hard pressed to pick which phase is best. To a young nose used to sweet modern scents I would recommend patience and multiple wears to assimilate this dry, anti-sweet, smoky, soapy, green, aromatic fougere. Two thumbs up plus a standing ovation for Paco PH.
100+ wear update: Still standing and applauding with both thumbs up. To me modern is just as good as vintage.
The cleanest dirty scent I own!
Bottle in reference is 2nd edition splash which puts it into the second half of the 80s.
Opens with a blast of barbershop and floral freshness that was unexpectedly loud. Bright is the best way to put it. Opening a new white bar of soap bright.
Once it's moved on, you get the beginning of the legendary dry down. With an almost cumin like amber musk that adds the maucho-ness much described elsewhere. The soapy brightness is still the star of the show though, and it melds into a masterpiece battle between musky earthy amber and clean sparkling soap brightness. This constant indecisive theme carries on for hours and sillage I would describe as moderate to strong (this does not turn into a skin scent)
An interesting scent indeed! Two thumbs up. Worth snagging a Vintage bottle without question, an easy but strong wearing and very much complimented masculine classic!
Bottle in reference is 2nd edition splash which puts it into the second half of the 80s.
Opens with a blast of barbershop and floral freshness that was unexpectedly loud. Bright is the best way to put it. Opening a new white bar of soap bright.
Once it's moved on, you get the beginning of the legendary dry down. With an almost cumin like amber musk that adds the maucho-ness much described elsewhere. The soapy brightness is still the star of the show though, and it melds into a masterpiece battle between musky earthy amber and clean sparkling soap brightness. This constant indecisive theme carries on for hours and sillage I would describe as moderate to strong (this does not turn into a skin scent)
An interesting scent indeed! Two thumbs up. Worth snagging a Vintage bottle without question, an easy but strong wearing and very much complimented masculine classic!
The green feels an appropriate color choice. I haven't smelled BRUT aftershave in years and year but I want to say this is a supremely nicer version with an orange peel oil spritz around the rim. That could be ...off though. People say soap and powder but I don't think that's right AT ALL. I find way less powder than an old spice type clean scent. This stuff goes beyond soap into Windex territory. That doesn't mean I don't like it. Air freshener purple flower but not floral. Ever notice rosemary smelling kinda like lemon? My Mom bought it for me and my Girlfriend loves it. So that's two female votes in favor of this flavor but I think it's a "Dudes Only" scent unless you're a head-to-toe lemon woman. It could layer on one of those overly lemmoned ladies. You know who you are!
I have the small logo r bottle. Seems to last just fine and does make my skin sticky where it lands.
I have the small logo r bottle. Seems to last just fine and does make my skin sticky where it lands.
Modern masculines from Paco Rabanne are not something I enjoy. One Million and it's flankers all choke me out, the Invictus line fills me with the burning fury of a thousand suns and my one bottle of Black XS from my twenties elicited a solid Meh.
The original Pour Homme is another story altogether. This is the first aromatic fougere I've purchased and it was love at first smell. My bottle is the modern formulation, but it's still incredible.
The opening is reminiscent of faberge brut... in the most complimentary way possible. The bracing hit of sage and rosemary (And I think bergamot, even though it's not listed) is gorgeous and the laurel adds a roundness that I really enjoy, it seems to pair up perfectly with the lavender and geranium. The development from the bracing opening through the soapy, powdery phase is gradual, rather subtle and just feels logical and beautifully done.
My favourite element, though, is undoubtedly the tobacco. It initially has a dry, papery quality that reminds me strongly of the note in Guerlain Vetiver and melds really smoothly with the honey, amber and musk in the base to give a sensation that is mostly rich, smooth and clean, with only a hint of sweetness and bitter dryness.
The only complaint one might raise is that this does smell old school. I think there's enough retro chic in the fougere genre to give this some legs and hipster cred, but even without that, I don't care. I can live with smelling old when it smells this damn good.
The original Pour Homme is another story altogether. This is the first aromatic fougere I've purchased and it was love at first smell. My bottle is the modern formulation, but it's still incredible.
The opening is reminiscent of faberge brut... in the most complimentary way possible. The bracing hit of sage and rosemary (And I think bergamot, even though it's not listed) is gorgeous and the laurel adds a roundness that I really enjoy, it seems to pair up perfectly with the lavender and geranium. The development from the bracing opening through the soapy, powdery phase is gradual, rather subtle and just feels logical and beautifully done.
My favourite element, though, is undoubtedly the tobacco. It initially has a dry, papery quality that reminds me strongly of the note in Guerlain Vetiver and melds really smoothly with the honey, amber and musk in the base to give a sensation that is mostly rich, smooth and clean, with only a hint of sweetness and bitter dryness.
The only complaint one might raise is that this does smell old school. I think there's enough retro chic in the fougere genre to give this some legs and hipster cred, but even without that, I don't care. I can live with smelling old when it smells this damn good.
Old school. Mine's an '08 bottle.
Spicy Geranium. Mossy-honeyed-musk to it, remindful of King Kouros at times. Soapy. Versatile.
An undeniable stalwart in masculine fragrance history.
Spicy Geranium. Mossy-honeyed-musk to it, remindful of King Kouros at times. Soapy. Versatile.
An undeniable stalwart in masculine fragrance history.