Philosykos
Eau de Parfum, Diptyque (2012)

Poetic, green, fairy and somewhat kind of biblic (prophetic) this Diptyque-fragrance (in its Eau de Parfum ultimate denser and more solid version introduced on the market in 2012 after the 1996 antecedent Eau de Parfum-version) represents the enchanted aroma of a supreme elegiac sense of cultured refinement. Somewhat close to the more floral but equally musky green Profumi di Polignano Magnifico Extrait de Parfum (2022), despite woodier and more kind of lactonic, this Olivia Giacobetti's spark of olfactory poetry is the choice for romantic spirits with love for ancient wisdom and culture. With its sense of enchanted green musky silence and dreamy fruitiness Philosykos Eau de Parfum teleports us inside a antique Greek garden where was just gathered a symposium of old philosophers intent in talking about life and nature. What I love about this fragrance is the presence of a slightly lactonic coconutty feel in the middle of a figgy (and slightly grassy) fruity greenness as you can perceive the sticky serum leaking from mature mediterranean fig's peels and the bitter lymphatic vibe from the fig-leaves. A supremely figgy fragrance and a reference on this by now taking the world by storm olfactory theme. This ripe fruit is pulpy, vaguely earthy/bitter and lactonic with the typical aroma coming from a ripe fruit and the sticky leaves mixed together. Some musky elements lead gradually the transition towards a woody base (sandawood, cedarwood and possibly hints of vetiver) which is slightly coconutty, a tad spicy, soapy cedary and resinous at same time. There is something kind of carnal, pulpy and earthy sticky in this fragrance and I have no doubts on usage of the finest quality of ingredients. A perfect fragrance for a romantic lunch in a restaurant close to the sea during a breezy summery mediterranean day.

Ripe-green-cucumber peel. This fragrance conjures up cucumber for me and nothing else. Perhaps I am missing something but I cannot understand what all the hype is about with this fragrance.

For the first 30-45 minutes, I smelled vegetable bin and overly-ripe cucumber peel to the point where I felt nauseated. After an hour the landing is mild, subtle and mediocre wood, which I imagine is the sandalwood poking through.

Would never purchase this, or wear this. I imagine if someone wishes to smell salty, young, organic, aquatic, vegetal, watery, hip (?), etc this would work...but why?

Not sure who would wish to walk around smelling like vegetable peel (primarily cucumber, someone mentioned banana) all day long because longevity is rather high at 6 hours.

This is a hard pass. Simply not for me and not the way I want to smell all day long.

Philosykos is a pillar fragrance for not only Diptyque but also for what has become niche in general. While I have the EDP, it is much like the EDT used to be. It opens with the convincing accord of fig leaves and no sooner than this open blooms roundly green and fecund that the fig fruit comes through, not too sweet, and the subtle lactonic facets from both the fruit and the leaves. There are however, just the slightest raw, bitter undertones suggesting the ambience of whole fig trees.

Whatever sense of coconut here is that of the green and not fully ripened, thankfully, as I am not necessarily crazy about coconut notes in fragrance, especially when they are quite sweet and meaty and suggest suntan lotion or sticky sweets. This all seamlessly transitions to a well-executed woody accord that suggests hints of cedar and sandalwood but still has a green hue surrounding it.

I love to reach for this classic in the summertime.

Owned this one for a few years. Forgot to review this gem. That was a big mistake. Very authentic fig smell. Perfect for fall and winter wear. Best fig scent I've ever smelled!
8/10

Really, the genius of Philosykos is the realization that a mix of coconut and taragon somehow ends up smelling like fig (which doesn't have an essential oil or actually much of a smell until it's cooked). It's quite crazy that, through some kind of smell illusion sorcery, the combination smells both green and fruity.

This mix is supported by a milky sap smell and quite a bit of salt, which is suppose is there to subconsciously call to mind warm Greek ocean air.

To be honest, I don't really enjoy wearing Philosykos, but still recognize is as a great perfume. So an enthusiastic thumbs up, but not really my style.

Firstly, I will say that this is not my style.

Now I have got that out of the way I will add that this is a fragrance of the highest quality. Much like Nobile 1942, Diptyque use some of the finest ingredients in the business. I always find that with Diptyque there is a certain hygienic quality to their fragrances. They always smell so clean and pure.

Anyway....What you get up front is fig. It's one of the most realistic fig notes I have ever encountered. Just behind it in the slight distance is a peach note. It's not the flesh of a peach but almost like the stone of a peach. In the mid and dry down there is a woodsy coconut vibe and maybe some white floral's/powder?? There is a slight resemblance to Carnal Flower.

Comes across as quite stunning and totally original.