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Costume National (2011)

A bitter fruit and flower unisex mix, with decent sillage and longevity. It's not original or appealing enough for me to bother.

The opening is pleasantly "mainstream", a clean floral accord, a plummy grapefruit note, patchouli, tonka, vanillin, white musks, a fruity touch of galaxolide (the "shampoo" note), a milky and transparent modern concoction with metallic aldehydes and the – frankly anonym – "chic" factor given by a general, restrained, sophisticated "contemporaneity" – which is not to be intended in terms of avantgarde or "research", more just conformism to a glossy, mainstream, up-to-date concept of elegance. A hint of calone gives the right amount of azure "airiness" to the composition. I also detect a minty note, which contributes in creating a balsamic, thin fresh "breeze". Finally there is also a darker fruity heart, with hints of honey and woods, that together with patchouli and some floral debris will remain on the drydown. Not bad, but... "Been there, done that".

5,5-6/10

As well as usual for Costume National this new release is extremely chic but the glamour vibe in this case, rather than being mysterious or milky-lush (Scent Intense or 21), is indeed utterly fruity-floral, joyful, cool and synthetic (chic-synthetic and "modern"). There must be hidden somewhere something invigorating and fresh not listed. There is a notable energetic rose-jasmine in the air and a strong initial citrus-grapefruit mark with a touch of greens aromatic so airy and fresh. In a second phase the strong immediately plain floral touch is flanked by a bold patchouli and by a soft caress from the powdery white woods and from the dry amber (in moderate amount) with a final blackcurrant influence that reminds me vaguely the Opium Pour Homme's silky dry down. Despite the ambery and woody dry down the juice holds on to be light, airy, averagely dry and cool with a really impressing projection and a remarkable patchouli-floral sophisticated link. Another good juice from the Italian brand for a temperamental kind of woman even if 21, Scent Intense and Scent are more original and inspired.