Reviews of Vanille Insensée by Atelier Cologne

Dry vanilla incense, like the actual thing from an incense shop. I do like it, but it's extremly dry, to the point of dusty. It doesn't quite make me cough, but I do think it's very simplistic and needs some tempering notes for my chemistry.

A great clone or alternative to Eau Duelle by Diptyque. However, I'm not sure if it's worth discussing any further since Atelier Cologne has suspended operations in North America. Eau Duelle is still the king, and it's readily available for testing, so go with that one.

Lime-forward vanilla. What you are promised is what you get. Light, easily wearable for work, completely inoffensive, and therefore versatile. Not really interesting, and quite linear, this is a safe scent. It's nice to have a vanilla that isn't sweet, and this is completely unisex. I have used up a 7.5mL that came as part of a sampler pack, and a further 2mL or so sample. Both were fine, but nI will not buy more of this.

Vanilla-infused turpentine. Musty, moldy antique wood furniture. I like it... I'd say this is a rather dark, woody vanilla, bordering on boozy at times. This house rarely impresses me. I find their fragrances rather mainstream, pedestrian, or boring. This one, intrigues me.

Wooden vanilla fades into a creamy, almost ice cream flavor later on, with sprinkles of pencil shavings. Ha! An unusual vanilla scent for sure...

This is lovely. My association with vanilla is that it's usually sweet and gourmand, but this is darker, more like smelling an actual vanilla bean, maybe with some dark rum. Subtle, not intense. If it didn't sound so cheesy, maybe it would be called "Vanille Noir."

A thoroughly cheap-smelling synthetic vanilla mixed with some smokiness; it's both bland and off-putting.

I'm inclined to be especially harsh here because of the absurd and disgraceful pricing. This is transparently cheap, nasty stuff being sold at entry-level niche pricing.

Whilst I am the vanilla pretty much straight form the opening blast, this turns out to be different from the usual sweet, rich and strong gourmand-style vanilla.

This vanilla is paired with a bitter lime, which gives the vanilla more brightness and a nigh-fresh character. There is also a persistent metallic-like undertone that I get throughout the development of this composition.

In the heart notes a fairly nonspecific woodsiness arises, and touches of cardamom and coriander add gently spiciness from time to time.

The base adds little new on me, except an amber impression of muted shrillness. The vanilla is still lingering on until the end, although the citrus element has more or less evaporated by now.

I get moderate sillage, adequate projection and an excellent ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This scent for warmer autumn day is based on a pared-down slim, bright and cool vanilla, an anti-vanilla as far the the traditional sweet gourmand versions go. The mighty drawback is it's egregiously synthetic and generic nature - maybe to an extent that it is insensée indeed. A somewhat mundane vanilla, which might of interest to people who dislike the usual heavy vanillas. 2.75/5.

Peppery, citrusy, woody vanilla. A tempered yet perceptible vanilla note of good quality thats not cloying or overly saccharine; woven in with a diverse set of citrus, vetiver and oakmoss notes. Well blended, very versatile and one of the best "dry" and "easy to wear" vanilla fragrances alongside Creeds' Sublime Vanille (which has a more upfront vanilla presentation).

A vanilla fragrance good enough to convert a vanilla-denier.

Excellent no frills vanilla, can be worn by both men and women, however I would love to smell this on a guy. Your not going to get the gourmand baking vanilla so prominent in other vanilla heavy perfumes. Excellent oak moss and vetiver notes, woody undertones.

This is a vanilla cologne for the warmer weather. Vanilla perfumes are usually heavy and sweet and more suitable for colder months, but Atelier manages to produce a blend for the warmer months. The citrus and woody notes surround the center staged creamy vanilla. It is a light gourmand, like a fresh chilled vanilla cream desert. It's moderately sweet, mostly linear and with medium performance.

Vanilla is a scent I often struggle with, particularly boozy vanillas or anything with even a vaguely cupcakey accord. This is dry, which seems to be a far less common presentation - certainly vanilla isn't something I particularly associate with the cologne genre. As others have said, Insensee means 'insane', rather than 'incense', although I don't find madness or excess in this at all - if anything, it smells rather introverted in character, despite having decent projection; lasts well too, being a Cologne Absolue. I loved it at first sniff and, from the fact that my first sniff was from an amber-coloured, rather ancient-looking sample, I can tell you that it ages well, getting deeper and a little warmer.
It opens with a full and vibrant lime, a juicy opening for a scent which dries down papery, dusty and (as ClaireV so insightfully pointed out) with something of the Communion wafer about it. Maybe it's the lapsed Catholic in me that loves this, maybe it's the bookworm...
It works well as a base under herbal freshies, too - a great way to transition them between seasons. I definitely get a spike of vetiver in the drydown, to my nose it shows as an earthiniess below the papery accord.


Also, am I the only who just loves the Atelier bottles? Like pebbles, there's something really comforting about them in the hand - just the right weight and those rounded corners are lovely.

Vanille Insensée is a light and spicy vanilla that leans towards green freshness, unusual for a vanilla fragrance. The drydown becomes less green and fresh, more of the spice and vanilla.

Projection is very good.

One spray of this and I was reminded of a Bruno Acampora oil (Vanyl) which foxed me a couple of months ago as I felt it was a 'green' vanilla in the sense of not sweet. Just read Kotori's review of Vanille Insensée here and she mentions that it smells like the pods rather than baked goods made with vanilla - that is spot on! I had become so used to vanilla being sweet and body lotionish that I'd completely lost the association with the real thing. So VI is a cool rather than cozy vanilla, and I like it. A couple of hours later, it's humming along and exuding a feeling of calm and wellbeing (not cookie scented at all!).
Although it's not something I'd rush out to get for myself, I'm very happy to try it and if I ever wanted a vanilla of this type it'd definitely be a contender.

Ahhh... it makes a lot of sense to know Ralf Schwieger created this one. The style reminds me of Fils de Dieu or the Merveilles line. "Insane Vanilla" is a vanilla-dominant cologne (as in eau de) with a contrasting orange peel note and some supporting jasmine, moss, and woods. The jasmine blends well and whispers softly, never once attempting to overthrow the vanilla. It is a cold vanilla, based on the pod, not the extractor any baked goods featuring it. In the sense of coldness and darkness, it resembles Eau Duelle EDT by Diptyque, though not in the actual notes (other than the pod-based vanilla). This is one of my favorite ever vanillas, which I've learned after a two-year long vanilla quest. Very intelligently composed and modern.

Very nice vanilla that has that old book smell (Not a bad thing). It does have that Memoirs of a Trespasser vibe.

Vanille Insensee by Atelier Cologne is one of the only three vanilla-centered fragrances that I would consider adding to my collection. The list also includes Salimar EDC and L de Lolita Lempicka (sadly discontinued). Lately, it seems like half the beauty and bath products on the market are laced with vanilla, and I can see why–it is universal, comforting, and not “perfume-y”. On the other hand, if I am going to burn a hole in my wallet and purchase a fragrance, I except something more than vanilla extract. Vanille Insensee reminds me of a vintage perfume that developed for several hours on the skin. The top notes are long gone and only a hint of floral accord remains. What is left is a gently humming benzoin-laden vanilla with a dose of subdued “oakmoss”, a touch of vetiver, and airbrushed musk. That being said, VI is far from vintage with its burnt sugar turned up full blast and the civet strategically omitted. Even the moss accord has been declawed and given a bath.

VI is very approachable, yet it provides the wearer with something more than vanilla scented body lotion. My favorite part is the freshly cut hay accord that is screaming for help under the pile of sugar and moss/musk.

4/5

UMMM - Vanille Insensee - a favourite from the house. Sampled over 2 consecutive days, and it has bowled me over both days! The note list doesn't make much sense as I don't really get corriander, lime, vetiver or oakmoss. What I get is a fantastically intoxicating vanilla with a citrussy-floral orange blossom type note, this juxtasposition created a 3-dimensional scent with lots of shadows, brighter areas and hidden corners.

The Vanilla is clearly the star of the show. This is a straight-up vanilla scent. It is a lot like opening a tube of raw black sticky vanilla pods and giving it a good sniff - quite a multifaceted smell, a little dark, a little smokey, slightly powdery, even boozy with a kind of burnt-sugar and plastic that raw vanilla can give , thankfully not over-sweet. The supporting notes keep the mind engaged. One of the best vanilla interpretations I've come across. Probably slightly feminine leaning, but distinct enough for a man to carry off. I got a similar vanilla from Lush Vanillary but that one went a bit too cup-cake, this one is more like a light dusting of vanilla infused icing sugar: quite airy, light and transparent. Above all a sensual-romantic classy scent: reminding us that - when fully ripe - natures vegetation can be just as seductive as animalic displays!

Overall 82/100. Somehow not doing so well on other reviews, but I'll trust my nose here.Closer to the very best vanillas (Guerlains, Mona di Orio etc) than designer efforts. The real magic is in the first hour, then it may resemble a refined Le Male given an unlimited budget. I'd be delighted to have this smell associated with me.

Just another cheap little vanilla. It's that dumb marshmallow frosting vanilla, with isobutavan added for a hint of nuts and creme soda, and a touch of boozy immortelle that's trying its best to class things up but fails.

Right now, in any town in America, you could go to Ross or TJ Maxx and find a candle or a room spray that smells like this for less than $5. This is the dictionary definition of what "cheap" smells like.

Oh, i was so happy to finally try this one... it sounded like an interesting vanilla. And then, the disappointment. It smells like Demeter! A lot of alcohol and the same "backscent". I think my mind's tricking me into this because of the coriander. It's quite weak but long-lasting. Try Eau de l'Angelus for something similar but much more qualitative, cheaper and potent. I get many compliments with it.

If you want to smell like singed, buttered tonka this stuff will knock you out. The quieter dimensions at work (especially the moss) keep things in check as best they can, but it's a tough sell to make a truly interesting vanilla-centered fragrance. Not at all a bad scent, overall. Fans of VI looking for a little more dimension may have some fun looking for old samples of Scott McClintock.

This soft-spoken offering from the typically soft-spoken house of Atelier Cologne made me eat the following words, which I've repeated many times:

"I've never smelled anything similar to any of Imaginary Authors line."

Well, now I have. Vanille Insensée is not as unique overall as Memoirs of a Trespasser is, but the dry and mellow vanilla smells as if it comes from the exact same aroma chemical. Honestly, the whole thing smells a lot like MoaT.

As for what I smell, it opens with the signature citrus/bergamot opening that Atelier is so fond of. The same opening that I can barely detect. About 10 minutes in, I get the type of vanilla I mentioned earlier (dry, mellow) with some nice green/watery notes (not aquatic, though) that come forward as it develops. There is a nondescript floral note that I can't put my finger on, but I don't get any jasmine. It settles down into a woody, dry vanilla base.

This a vanilla I can wear. It's not sicky sweet at all and like MoaT, comes across as gender-less.

Like almost everything I've tried from Atelier Cologne (I bought sample set of the entire line) this is pleasant and unlikely to offend. It doesn't particularly wow me though, and neither does Memoirs of a Trespasser, for reference.

Kind of strange that the name contains the word "Insensée" because I detect no incense here. Although, when I type it into Google Translate, it comes up as "senseless". So harsh Google! It's not that bad.

Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee is a creamy vanilla, somewhat gourmand-like, drawing from many different concepts: woody, smoky, and definitely floral.

I didn't get too much citrus in the opening, despite the note listing. The experience started mainly with the vanilla itself, which didn't wait for the dry down. Similarly, I account for the amber's presence throughout the life of the fragrance due to the creaminess of the vanilla. The oak stands in the background throughout, anchoring the fragrance with a dryness that doesn't let it become a fleeting floral nor an overly cake-like gourmand.

To compare to other vanilla-focused fragrances, Vanille Insensee contains some of the booze of Perry Ellis Oud Black Vanilla Absolute, some of the florals of Dame Perfumery Blak Floral, and the darkness of Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser, perhaps the insensee (incense?) reminding me of the prominent myrrh note in MOAT.

Now I'm not sure Vanille Insensee is as good as of these fragrances since it doesn't really commit to any one direction all that much, but that might make it all the more agreeable among vanilla lovers and non-lovers alike, the latter since it's relatively easy to wear.

On performance, Vanille Insensee projects more and lasts longer than most of its Atelier Cologne freshie brethren, so it definitely feels more valuable, and at an unusual steal at FragranceX for only $84 for 100ml.

Usage-wise, men and women alike can use this throughout the year. I imagine it can remain under control in warm weather but not disappear in cold weather either, so I'd speculatively regard this is a solid year-round option. Not my favorite vanilla but one I might consider adding.

8 out of 10

I'm really starting to enjoy Atelier Cologne's fragrances. They all seem to be slow burners: I'll spray one on, then think "Hmm, not much to that," and then about an hour later I'll notice a really nice, beautifully balanced fragrance emanating from about an inch from my skin. Vanilla Insensée is no exception. It starts as a sweetish vanilla with a lick of lemony jasmine, and then it ends in a light, woody bit of pie-spice. Quite a polite vanilla, really, in a world full of bombshells, beasts, and layer cakes--but not prim or shy.

Light, refreshing Vanilla...

This is a vanilla that is in keeping with the spirit and direction of Atelier Cologne in that it is an eau de cologne with a vanilla aspect to it. That means that it is not a perfume with a heavy vanilla note. Instead it is one which is surrounded with citrus notes.

The lime and oakwood are the main notes, along with the vanilla, are what make this. I also detect the citron backing up the lime, and the subtle jasmine, giving a dirty quality to the mix.

I think this is a vanilla for people who don't like vanilla in perfumes. A very wearable vanilla for men and a unique, refreshing choice for women. Not bad at all!