Vetiver 46
Le Labo (2006)

Vetiver 46 by Le Labo (2006) is in the usual fashion of not smelling very much like the thing listed on the label. Mark Buxton as a perfumer has done a lot of interesting work, some of it marred by an eccentric personality and sense of elitism folks find difficult to stomach, and resulting in his move up market to work mostly with luxury brands like this one, but it is nothing if not eclectic. Here we see some of his career-defining work at Comme des Garçons echoed in the primary use of woody incense accords, and this really overshadows any vetiver in the composition to the point I'd not even call Vetiver 46 a poor vetiver fragrance; it just isn't one. Maybe a vetiver-touched incense and woods scent might be a better way to think about Vetiver 46? I don't know, it's overpriced and underwhelming in the usual Le Labo way regardless. Folks comparing this to Gucci pour Homme (2002) and Comme des Garçons 2 Man (2004) were automatic red flags for me.

The opening of this is smoky and peppery, undoubtedly from being loaded down with clove, olibanum, and black pepper. This smells very much like that churchy frankincense or Somali incense which is so popular in a lot of French takes on the subject going all the way back to Messe de Minuit by Etro (1994), not being so bleakly dry and harsh like some of the avant-garde work Buxton did on the subject for Comme des Garçons. Labdanum smooths, makes ambery in ways, while bergamot brightens and just a touch of cedarwood and vanilla help pulls the dynamics of the fragrance out so it feels more across a spectrum than just a sharp power chord of smoke and wood. The vetiver is only really adding some nuttiness at this point, with faint impressions of green. Performance is nice at least, being "just right" in that level of longevity and being noticeable without getting grating, something a lot of the Comme des Garçons work Buxton has done can't claim.

My bottom line is this comes across like a green-ish peppery and woody incense fragrance. Something like this would actually be great in an Essential Parfums bottle sold for just under $100, where I think it would be priced fairly and get some reach named after the primary materials (Incense Vert or some such). Just as Mr. Buxton would never lower himself these days to make a perfume for a brand selling based on value and accessibility (even if some of his better-known work amongst the public is through Cofinluxe, Oriflame, Paco Rabanne, and Burberry), Lauder Group would never go "oh hey something like this might have been better in the Aramis range" which it had at the time; now the company has literally zero designer-level fragrances anymore unless you count Tom Ford's overpriced garbage as that. Either way, this is a flush at its market placement. I'll compromise between my conflicted feelings and just feel indifferent about it. Neutral

First thought: I dont get any Gucci Pour Homme 2003 from it, i get tons of pine needles and some incense! Its a super sophisticated woody mens release, very classy, very nice. If you like Santal 33, Patchouli 24...Rose 31 even, lets just say all woody releases from Le Labo, this is for you! Imagine a smart casual dressed gentleman in a city, wearing this on a grey fall day. I get slight hints of Tom Ford Vert D'Encens actually, just more rounded and dressed up.

This fragrance offers a distinct burnt smoky incense note, complemented by a peppery cedar undertone. Interestingly, it shares a striking resemblance to 2 Man by CDG, which isn't surprising considering they share the same perfumer. There isn't much more to elaborate on, as it's about 90% similar to 2 Man. In terms of performance, it feels slightly stronger than 2 Man, although it still falls within the moderate range when it comes to longevity. Initially, it projects a bit more prominently, but after about an hour, it settles into a more intimate aura. Considering the similarities, I would recommend opting for 2 Man, as it offers a similar experience at a slightly lower price point. If you're looking for an even more affordable alternative, Bentley Absolute would be worth considering.

Dark, green woods, loaded with resins, and the smoky swirl of incense in the air. The vetiver seems scarce in this one, despite being the namesake ingredient. One of the better releases from the line to me, though redolent of CdG 2Man.

This is like Encre Noire with lots of smoke. Vetiver 46 is dark green, vegetal, inky, and surrounded by very classy smokiness. The potent green opening then lands on a nice comforting ambery base. A very classy scent altogether. A winner for team green.

Crisp, green, wet vetiver goodness with a woody twist.

Le Labo's Vetiver 46 has been a long-time welcome presence at the local Nordstrom's men's fragrance counter. Not too complicated and has some depth and character.