Perfume Reviews by HouseOfPhlegethon

Patchouli Mania by Essential Parfums

Earthy Patchouli.

Hazelnut and cacao are front and center in the beginning. The, some tea appears. It becomes earthy, with the nuttiness always present. I smell the clearwood. ( I had to google what that note was.) This is a gentle fragrance, even with fifteen sprays.
After a time I smell a bread note, something starchy.
Everything begins to fade around seven to eight hours, to resemble a soapy, patchouli accord.

Pleasantly wearable. Public friendly.
Three and a half stars.

Berlin im Winter by Baruti

Aromatic Balsamic

I have wanted to test this for awhile. Finally got around to buying a sample recently. It was love at first sniff.
A magnificent blend of notes. Just my style.
It's a little bit skanky. Has minute, delicate flowers in the background. Incense vibes float above everything. Sometimes I smell coffee, or something like coffee beans roasting.
There is a damp and dark accord as it progresses. Leather and olibanum may be the culprit.

There is an ambience of a smoky, crackling fire in a stone fireplace, in an old cabin. Definitely feels like winter.
Of course, I had to buy a full bottle almost immediately! Five stars, naturally.

Intimate Silhouette by Christian Siriano

Sweet Woody Floral.

A nutty-wood, fizzy jasmine thing. The sesame seeds are interesting.
Much Tonka creeps in almost immediately after the top notes begin to fade.
In time, it's a steady diet of jasmine, amber, vanilla, and still strong Tonka.

Twelve hours later, or so, it is a creamy, cashmere wood base. Still, the Tonka. 3 1/2 stars.

Black Anubis by Sphinx

Herbal scent with light citrus. It's very fresh.
A dusty rose emerges with a touch of nutmeg.
Fades into a mild wood and leather base. Leans unisex.
Comforting.
3.5 stars.

Basilica di Assisi by Filippo Sorcinelli

An all, mixed-up ambery, sweet incense blend. Loads of styrax, dried fruit, and patchouli. It's warm, both dry and damp, at the same time.
Later I smell a candy accord like those chalky, hard candy bracelets and necklaces I used to buy / wear, when I was a little girl.
This fragrance "thins out" for lack of a better phrase. I don't know quite how to describe it. It is still very amber-laden, still sweet. It reminds of something - Opoponax, I believe. It throws me off and still intrigues me simultaneously.

The sweet incense and resinous balsamic quality lasts well into the morning.

This is one of the more "sweet" scents I've tried by Filippo Sorcinelli. Voix Humaine 8 was another. This one, is much better! For me, this a perfect Oriental and it is full bottle worthy to me.
5 + stars!

Triskell by Anima Mundi

Aromatic Woody.

Very aromatic. Artemesia, is king. There is a faint, soil quality to this. Bergamot here, isn't too bitter [to me]. It blends well with a spicy note and sharp cedar.
Stays linear for hours.
Fir balsam dominates in the base, with hints of musk.

Smells like walking by a wooded area in early Autumn. 3.5 stars.

Amethyst Exquise by Lalique

Woody Floral.

Dry, earthy berries.
An equally earthy orchid and rose accord in the middle, as well. Never sugary.
Pale sandalwood with muted gardenia in the base. I don't smell any vanilla or benzoin until nine hours after application, then it quickly fades.

This is a light, unassuming fragrance. It is slightly more enjoyable than the original Amethyst. It actually does smell like "purple / amethyst".
2 .5 stars.

Noir Premier : Plume Blanche 1901 by Lalique

Nutty floral.

Dry. Lots of violet leaf, almond, and cardamom.
Soft jasmine and peppercorn appear, while maintaining the almond vibe.
Much later, all heliotrope, for hours.
In time the base is still heliotrope-laden but, fainter. A pale woody note, plus musk are also present.

This fragrance is like a fine, scented roll, of drawer-liner paper. Pleasant. Not overly spectacular. One can spray with abandon as it isn't a strong scent.

3.25 stars

Bianco Latte by Giardini di Toscana

Burnt caramel. Honeyed vanilla. It's too sweet, almost sickening.
Musk invades twelve hours later. Burnt caramel odor dissipates.
Not a fan. Smells "cheap". Too costly for what it is. I've smelled way better gourmands of this ilk.
I'll give it one more day to see if it improves...
2 stars.

Les Eaux de Peau : Blanche Bête by Liquides Imaginaires

What a wonderful blend of notes! Flowers - not overdone. Coffee, with a splash of milk. Vanilla - everywhere.
This fragrance settles into one of the milkiest, creamiest, thing I've tried of late. Ultra feminine. It's a white, fluffy cloud of sweetness but, not overly sugary.
Later, there is a vague coconut-like note.
In about eight hours it is all vanilla and musk, and it begins to fade. I shall use more sprays in the future to get more longevity, maybe?
Four and a half stars.

Dali Haute Parfumerie : Calice de la Séduction Éternelle by Salvador Dali

Chewy, then almost sticky, or waxy, undertone of a classic, Oriental-type fragrance. Kinda hard to describe. It is textural, but not. It's weird.
Dominant patchouli, amber, labdanum notes in the first fifteen minutes.
The flowers are too mixed to pick them out individually. It becomes sugary in time - amber, vanilla, combine well. This profile last about 10 to 11 hours.

This reminds me of Coromandel, overall.

I will admit, I purchased this for the beauty of bottle. Did not expect to be smitten with fragrance. 4/5 stars, baby!

Boutique by Perfumology

Brief apple note, to start. Then, musky fruit. Dark, almost woody floral scent. It is masculine / unisex in nature. Eventually I smell whiskey even though it is not a listed note but, I smell it anyway. It is rather pleasant. Settles down with woodsy / cedar vibes. Faint vanilla and iris accord.
A great blend of notes.
Next morning, a vanilla musk, almost amber-like accord remains.
Starts out intense. Mellows nicely.
4/5 stars.

Loubidoo by Christian Louboutin

Strange... I don't smell any strawberry in any way, shape, or form. Unless, it is supposed to be tart? Otherwise no. This is a dry, rose scent. Turns woody and dry with a definite cedar presence. Stays the same, always. Linear.
It's "nice". That's about it.

2.5 stars. Overpriced.

Transilvania by Calaj

A true, gothic fragrance. Relentlessly dark. Every single notes presents itself, at one time or another; pretty much in order of the notes listed. This scent takes me back in time memory-wise. I think it reminds me of the combined smells from a long gone "head" / tobacco shop. Black cherry note is perfection. Does not smell like cough syrup at all. More like a real cherry or a cherry-flavored hard candy. The flowers are deep, resinous - not feminine at all.
The base is a complex merging of animal magnetism, incense, and sweet-like balsamic richness. Not for those who detest strong / oriental type fragrances. Use sparingly [one or two sprays]. This, is one of the best scents I've purchased in years!

Eventually the honey and vanilla blanket the darker "base" notes. It feels warm and comforting. The civet note is masked by something, but I don't know what. It's there but, disguised.

Lasts well overnight into the morning hours. Softening. Gentle gothic subtleties.

Five strong stars.

Mudéjar by Majda Bekkali

Big blast of grapefruit and pepper. Short-lived but, beautiful. Mellows quickly with bitter fruit and pale cedar.
Base notes are light, well-mixed.
Even with 13 sprays, this never gets loud. More of a skin scent.
Nice for warmer months, I suppose.
Eight hours later, a clean, soapy sandalwood and suede-like leather appears.
Easily wearable in public places.
Love the bottle design!

Edit: 17 sprays, does the trick! Now, I can really appreciate this scent.

4 stars.

Musk Vernaculaire by The Unleashed Apothecary

This one is hard to find - discontinued.
This must be over-sprayed. Otherwise, it is faint. A skin scent. I used ten sprays to get the full effect.
Starts with an animalic, hay note, slightly urine-soaked. Very musky. Like a 70s musk. Slightly sour floral notes. More musk later.
Strong civet note. Amber sinks in eight hours later.
It reminds me of Zoologist's Civet with less flowers. Best not to wear out in public.
Four and a half stars.

Punk Motel by Coreterno

Rose and bergamot combined with salicylates create an ethereal, mineral quality. It's ghostly in a way. Begins as a skin scent.

Sillage is minimal for an hour or so.
After some time musk moves in. It grows stonger. It's sillage, is stronger.
This scent is an experience. It's surreal. I would not have named this Punk Motel. It is more like a room in a nearly vacant, country Inn, somewhere in New England of all places.
It brings up childhood memories of staying at Jackson Falls House in New Hampshire in the early 70s. Waves of aroma from crisp, clean bed linens. A scent memory? I digress.
Ambrette and vanilla later on, makes it muskier, milky even.
Next morning, a mineral quality, still musky, almost Linden flower aroma remains.

I sampled this months ago and frankly I can't recall my reaction to its smell. I think I must have been "in a mood" upon initial application. Surely I would've remembered this atmospheric, haunting fragrance?

First fragrance in some time to evoke such emotions in me. May be full-bottle worthy. 4.5 stars. Two thumbs up.

cK one Shock for Her by Calvin Klein

Passion Flower dominates for about 6 hours. It is really all I smell for that time period.
Eventually, I get berry and chocolate although they are mild.
The next morning I smell amber and patchouli mixed.
This a so-so fragrance only because the top and middle are so linear. I believe this perfume would make a good layering scent with something I already have. Perhaps a strong rose perfume.

3/5 stars.

Aldebaran by Marc-Antoine Barrois

Smoky paprika mixes with strong tuberose. This, lasts for over five hours.
Tuberose eventually becomes indolic but, never all that nasty. Something like a tea note shows up mixing with the tuberose eventually. Very faint tonka bean arrives, in time. Tuberose settles down becoming milky.
If you do not enjoy tuberose pass, on testing this.
This fragrance starts out "hot"; it "cools" down later.
Love it! 4 and a half stars.

Lavande / Lavender by Provence Santé

Notes are Lavender, Rosemary, Pine, and Musk.

Starts with a realistic lavender note for an hour or two.
Then it mixes with some rosemary and pine. Stays linear all night.
Next morning it's all herbal (no more lavender) with a hint of soft musk.
Not bad - it needs more lavender throughout IMO.
3/5 stars.

6 Hours To Rio by Frapin

Hard to pick out individual notes with this one, in the beginning.
Then, Ambrettolide is very strong, over time.
This scent is brash, woodsy, hints of ginger. Cinnamon-like at times.
Hours later, loads of vetiver and sandalwood.
In the end, this reminds me of Dior's Sauvage but, less intense.
Three out of five stars.

Comète Paradis by Parle Moi de Parfum

This a mellow, almost gourmand blend. Coconut-y, buttery, tonka is [tolerable, for me], and it has a splash of vanilla. It is a cross between a suntan lotion and a tropical drink. The first four notes remain the same for hours and hours.
The next morning, some of the buttery-ness remains, with the addition of musk and mild sandalwood.
A pleasant fragrance. Not full-bottle worthy for me.
Tonka note is well done here. It does not overpower.
Three and a half stars.

Ink by Akro

Bold vetiver blast at first. Something like burnt tar creeps up. Vetiver still front and center. There is a whiff of black ink, as well. Smokiness smolders for awhile.
Stays fairly linear for hours. Still, with the vetiver being omnipresent.
Eight to nine hours later it stays the same, except for a hint of wood.
It's just okay. Three stars.

Espresso by Demeter Fragrance Library

Dark coffee. Slightly sweetened. A bit of something nutty. Cream-like undertone.
Sweetness eventually fades and I'm left with just a black, coffee note.
Longer lasting than most other Demeter frags, at seven hours. A fairly realistic coffee scent. Four stars.