Perfume Reviews by NettyYeti

XX Intense by John Varvatos

I’m not as cynical as Varanis Ridari, but I admit XX Intense isn’t for me.

Pros: It smells pleasant enough. Performance is not obnoxious, so it doesn’t assault one’s senses. It is generally as good as most fragrances of its ilk (which isn’t saying much, but at least it’s not bad). It’s cheap on grey market sites and the occasional brick and mortar discounter.

Cons: I’m almost 40 and this wears like a 20-something fragrance. It’s pretty generic, all things considered. Pick any random fragrance at the Macy’s counter and you’re bound to smell something that serves the same banal purpose.

Overall: not bad but not needed.

Atomic Peach by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Phoenix Artisan Accoutrement’s most well-known scent is arguably Atomic Age Bay Rum. Fittingly, PAA has put together a fair number of flankers, to varying degrees of success.

In Atomic Peach, we have a rendition which is perhaps the most true to the original. This isn’t Bay Gum, where a very light bay and spice accord was attached to a predominantly bubble gum fragrance, nor the Yankee Candle amalgamation that is Blue Moon Bay Rum.

What I get with Atomic Peach is predominantly Atomic Age Bay Rum with a juicy (almost neon) peach accord rounding it out. The peach is cartoonish - a caricature of a juicy peach accord - but it adds a needed roundness to the bay rum backbone. It works surprisingly well (better than PAA’s standalone Immortal Peach). That said, I’m not a huge bay rum fan to begin with, and peach is far from my favorite note, so this isn’t something I would ever own.

Performance is on par with Atomic Age Bay Rum, which is good for an aftershave/cologne. It’s an easy wear and sticks around on hair and clothes.

Overall, I shouldn’t like Atomic Peach as much as I do, but I’d wear it sooner than I would Atomic Age Bay Rum or Immortal Peach. I think that says something; it’s better than the sum of its parts. That said, it’s a bit of a novelty fragrance. I’m going thumbs up here because I think it’s executed really well, but Atomic Peach will not be for everyone. I’d recommend sampling before buying. It was first released in Spring 2025 and made another appearance in Spring 2026, but (like many PAA seasonals) there’s no guarantee it will be back again next year.

The Cobra and the Canary by Imaginary Authors

This is one of the more linear fragrances from Imaginary Authors, but it is no less interesting for it. As of March 2026, it is newly discontinued.

With The Cobra and the Canary, I get mostly smokey, rubbery leather. The leather is not the rough variety, but is suede-like and accompanied by a Bulgari Black-like rubber accord. The general impression I get is less asphalt and more Goodyear tires mixed with a new car interior smell. The tobacco flower adds just a touch of sweetness and the orris helps smooth the composition.

Overall, The Cobra and the Canary is a somewhat uncomplicated fragrance. I don’t find it challenging (in fact, it is a breeze to wear), but I would wager there aren’t many who will find it enjoyable. That is to say, it wears a bit more like a novelty (something one might wear with a costume, for instance) and less like a personal fragrance one wears to garner (positive) attention. It’s not the most versatile fragrance.

Projection is average, but that’s just fine; I would like it less as a loud fragrance. At $115 for 50ml (and probably soon to be more on all the resale sites now that it is discontinued), I’d say you can safely pass. That said, I can’t think of a reasonably priced alternative given that the aforementioned Bulgari Black is also discontinued and similarly-styled, once-cheapies from John Varvatos (Dark Rebel and Dark Rebel Rider) are also fetching silly prices.

Neutral.

Every Storm a Serenade (2024 Version) by Imaginary Authors

I received a sample of Every Storm a Serenade from a generous Basenoter in 2025. I can’t confirm the year of the sample, but I assume it is the 2024 release because my experience doesn’t really jibe with reviews of the previous version.

With Every Storm a Serenade, I mostly get an accord not unlike Encre Noire Sport. I don’t detect eucalyptus or spruce in any significant way; this is mostly an austere vetiver with salty-sour aquatic flourishes. There is little progression. Performance is on par for the house.

I’m sure more discerning noses could find ways in which this fragrances improves on the $25 Encre Noire Sport, but I don’t find the differences worth the $115 for 50ml price tag. I’m not crazy about this style (and I don’t find the style lends itself to discussions regarding the quality of the materials or the intricacies of the composition, anyway), so my rating ultimately comes down to value: why spend 4x as much for half the juice when Encre Noire Sport will get you something just as good (if not better)?

Thumbs down.

Fox in the Flowerbed by Imaginary Authors

Fox in the Flowerbed is a simple, refined, soapy jasmine fragrance. I’m not sure more need be said. It is overall well-blended and there’s little progression from top to bottom. It’s an effortless fragrance for almost any occasion.

Performance is modest, but it lasts the workday. As a nearly 40 year old man, I don’t feel uncomfortable wearing it, but I think most men would say it leans feminine. I find it almost luxurious, without the functional “women’s toiletry” connotations that sometimes come with jasmine-forward fragrances.

I wouldn’t personally buy a bottle (and it isn’t my wife’s style), but this is a really good understated fragrances.

Thumbs up.

Doppelgänger Continuum No. 2 by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Continuum #2 is PAA’s version of Creed’s Green Valley.

On initial application, I find Continuum #2 a light, dewy, “green” (not-quite-minty) fragrance. It’s not exactly like any Creed I’ve smelled (I’ve never smelled Green Valley), but you can tell we’re in the same waters as Millesime Imperial, Silver Mountain Water, and Himalaya.

The opening is my favorite part, but it’s pretty short-lived. I get around an hour of gentle projection. In the drydown, the connection to Creed is evident in its ambergris-ish base. I’m not a fan of this “DNA”, so it holds no appeal for me here. That said, this is nicely done.

Overall wear time is around 4 hours; this is definitely more on the “aftershave” side of performance.

Overall, Continuum #2 is a nice spring or summer fragrance for close quarters or for those who already own Green Valley and want some bath products to go along with it. It’s not my cup of tea, but personal taste aside, the only downside I can find is the performance.

Thumbs up.

Greenwitch Envy by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

My review for the EDP version of Greenwitch Envy is pretty much the same as the aftershave/cologne, so I’ll copy that below. Just know that with the EDP, the composition is slightly smoother and richer. It’s not markedly different, but it does round off some of the sharper edges in the aftershave/cologne that give me pause.

I gave the aftershave/cologne a neutral rating. It has a lovely opening ~2 hours, but the base grates on me a bit. The EDP makes for an easier wear. I’m still not quite sold on the base, but it deserves a thumbs up for quality and value.

*** My review of the aftershave/cologne: ***

Greenwitch Envy is an homage to Gucci’s Envy for Men. I can’t comment on the similarities, but feedback in the Basenotes forums from owners of Envy suggest it’s a successful recreation.

My impressions of Greenwitch Envy are largely positive, though I will admit it hasn’t “wowed” me. It opens with a soapy incense accord I find rather intriguing. It’s equal parts “old school fougere” (almost barbershop-esque) and modern dry synthetic incense (not unlike the norlimbanol “scratch” in Bleu de Chanel edt). I would have appreciated some lively, spice here, but the ginger is warm and muted; I doubt I would have identified it had the notes not listed it.

After about the first hour, you’re left with a fragrance with some nice balance: it’s both smooth and slightly soapy-sharp; it’s a bit warm, but paints with an almost neon palette; it’s sweet but not obnoxiously so. I can see why Envy for Men is appreciated, but for me this fine-tuning borders on generic. I certainly wouldn’t be offended if someone told me “hey, that smells familiar; are you wearing **insert generic 90’s fragrance**?”

The drydown is sandalwood, incense, and vanilla. Here, though it’s definitely not generic, I’m less enthusiastic about the composition. It’s less about the quality of the fragrance and more about my taste. The thing that makes Greenwitch Envy unique (but also the thing that gives me pause) is the thread of incense running through it. Performance is very good for the aftershave/cologne.

Given that Envy for Men goes for silly prices, Greenwitch Envy is a no-brainer for anyone looking to scratch that itch. For me, I’m content having sampled it and will revisit my sample in the future.

Atomic Apple Pecan Pie by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

This one exceeded my expectations. I anticipated Atomic Apple Pecan Pie being too much like a candle, wearing too heavily, or smelling too much like a bay rum. I actually find it rather deft and am pleased with both its nuance and comfortable performance.

The opening has an almost buttery quality reminiscent of flaky pie crust. The apple is here, too, but it’s not a juicy, candied, or obnoxiously surrealistic kind of apple. As the buttery aspects fade, a cinnamon spice note comes fairly strongly to the fore. At this point, it really does smell quite a bit like freshly baked apple pie. That said, it’s not SO gourmand nor SO realistic as to make me think of candles, bakeries, or Thanksgiving dessert. The overall effect in the first hour of wear is light, and there’s a crispness that makes this an almost year-round fragrance (though I think it’s best suited for fall).

As it dries down, Atomic Apple Pecan Pie gets spicier, but despite the name, it’s not the same kind of spice I get from PAA’s Atomic Age Bay Rum. It’s less piquant. The spice is all but gone in the base, where I mostly get a soft, vague sweetness, with perhaps a toasted nut or two. Here it’s a little boring, but pleasant. For an amped up version of this base, PAA’s Frosted Planet would be worth a try.

I wound up purchasing the EDP of Atomic Apple Pecan Pie (with a discount it’s ~$25 for 30ml) to see if it improved performance or enhanced the base; I find it smells and performs similarly. The spice is a touch heavier in the heart of the EDP, but otherwise it’s nearly identical to the aftershave/cologne.

Overall, I like this but don’t love it. Atomic Apple Pecan Pie is a seasonal/limited release. If you like gourmands, it’s worth a sample if it ever returns. For a less elegant take, there’s always Frosted Planet. Neutral.

Magi by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Magi opens with an accord that isn’t quite woody but also not exactly resinous. There’s a smooth ambery warmth backing it, but it’s overall a dry accord, for the most part lacking any sweetness (the tobacco does add some “glow”). Some light spices sparkle in the background, and there is a slight, almost-herbal note even deeper that I suppose is the chamomile (this is more evident in the drydown).

All told, Magi is a bit “old school” at the outset, reminding me of something my grandfather (or grandmother) might have worn (at times, it vaguely brings to mind Shalimar). If my description so far sounds chaotic, don’t be worried; this all occurs in the opening few minutes of wear and is actually quite interesting. Besides, this is a relatively quiet fragrance.

Once settled, Magi is subtly spicy-herbal, even more dry, and somewhat “green”. All that “amber glow” in the beginning has burnt off. Now it has the texture of a fallen, crumbling log on the floor of a dry deciduous forest. If you’ve smelled PAA’s Copalli or (to a lesser extent) Otra, this is in the same ballpark - it’s soft, woody-resinous (almost dank), and contemplative.

What I assume is the frankincense and myrrh dominate the drydown. I say “assume” because I’m not familiar with either note and this isn’t quite how I’d pictured them. The impression I get here is almost reminiscent of a sachet of herbal (chamomile) tea in an old wooden box. It has an “old book” kind of smell. The composition is very quiet at this point, though, so it’s hard to really nail it down. I get around 4-6 hours of wear time with the aftershave/cologne.

Overall, though this doesn’t follow popular trends or classic wetshaving tropes, it also isn’t all that adventurous. I don’t love it, but I also don’t hate it; I think Magi could have benefited from being more provocative, either in performance or scent profile. Alas, it is stuck in a sort of no-man’s-land of quirky banality, like canned cheese or boiled spinach.

My first impression with Magi was largely negative, but the more I wear it, the more I appreciate the opening. That said, I’m mostly indifferent when it comes to the drydown. It’s not full bottle worthy for me, but it’s worth a sample. This usually makes an appearance as a seasonal (Christmas) release, but it’s perfectly appropriate for spring and autumn use.

Tombstoned Immaculate by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Tombstoned Immaculate is a “mash-up” of two other PAA fragrances: Tombstone and Dapper Doc’s. I found each of these fragrances on their own fine but not full bottle worthy. Combined, I think there is more to like; when combined they make up for the other’s deficiencies.

The opening of Tombstoned Immaculate is a well-proportioned rose, lilac, and fig accord backed by a “flinty” (gunpowder) leather. At this point, it’s more wearable (for me) than the almost straight gunflint and leather of Tombstone and much more interesting than Dapper Doc’s tepid florals.

As the fragrances dries down, you pretty much get a more rounded off version of the top notes, with the florals subsiding and the gunflint less sharp. It settles into a nice leather fragrance, with perhaps a hint of geranium adding a bit of spiciness and a rugged musk for depth. Tobacco is a listed note, but I do not detect it. There isn’t much note progression, but it’s an enjoyable wear.

Overall, Tombstoned Immaculate is a bit dandy in the opening a a bit “butch” in the drydown. I’d call it stylishly masculine, though definitely not contemporary. Performance is good for an aftershave/cologne and on par with my experience with other PAA products.

It’s not a ‘love’, but this is very nice. Thumbs up.

Solstice by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

The opening of Solstice is woody, in the vein of something like Creed’s Royal Oud, but without the sweetness. There is also something obviously coniferous here; it smells to me like arborvitae leaves and not the distinctly woody smell of cedar ships or a cedar box. I get no rose whatsoever.

As the fragrance proceeds to the mid notes, the sage becomes more prominent and the cedar muted, but that’s about the extent of the development. The drydown reminds me a bit of SJP Stash, but dialed way down and made a bit more masculine.

Sillage is low; others will only notice this on you immediately after application. As with most PAA aftershave/colognes, I don’t have any problems with longevity; it lasts the workday when I apply it to my chest. It’s not likely to get one noticed, however.

Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements says that Solstice was inspired by the Arizona desert and, in an accompanying video on their sales page, the perfumer notes how many of the ingredients are used in traditional ceremonies (sage, sweet grass, etc.). While I don’t have experience with either the desert southwest nor the ritualistic use of plants, I can’t say Solstice evokes that kind of imagery to me. It reminds me more of portaging in the boundary waters.

Solstice smells fine, but it’s not the kind of thing I’d go out of my way to experience, nor recommend.

Neutral.

La Tierra Mojada by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

The opening of La Tierra Mojada is a literal floral bouquet. It’s not super “girly”, but certainly unisex, if not feminine-leaning. I like a good dandy fragrance, and though florals like this don’t really bother me, La Tierra Mojada doesn’t ‘wow’ me. It’s just not ‘me’, so to speak. That said, it’s a pretty good fragrance overall.

The neroli throughout is not too prominent here, thankfully, but I don’t detect much more than the lively florals - sort of a dewy lily of the valley accord to my nose. My wife, in fact, noted (unprompted) that it smelled like lily of the valley on me. Performance at this point is very good for an aftershave/cologne - any more volume and I think it would ruin it for me.

As the fragrance dries down, I get more stem, root, and perhaps a touch of pavement, though the florals never completely subside. The vetiver isn’t prominent, but used well to add subtle depth and a bit of dirtiness.

The base is where La Tierra Mojada is most interesting, to my taste. Geosmin, for the uninitiated (I had to look it up), is the chemical compound responsible for the characteristic odor of earth. It’s difficult to describe, but I pick that up here, though it’s not the dry flinty earth of something like Terre d’Hermes nor the sharp stoniness of Tom Ford’s Noir Anthracite. Again, the florals predominate, but it’s at least not too linear.

Overall, this is a nice unisex offering for a confident man or any woman who doesn’t mind the odd marketing. La Tierra Mojada is a seasonal release from PAA; I wouldn’t recommend it as a blind buy, but it’s definitely worth a $2 sample.

Thumbs up.

One final note: PAA notes that La Tierra Mojada was designed to be worn in combination with their Mega Flora fragrance and another spring limited releases Terra Preta. You can read my reviews of those individual fragrances, but I’ve also worn every possible combination of these three and here is what I’ve found:

Terra Preta with La Tierra Mojada: Terra Preta’s “potting soil” accord overwhelms in the opening, but doesn’t add a ton of depth in the base, where I’d really appreciate it. This combination is less a “weaving” of the two and more an unrefined mashup. I’m not a fan, mostly because Terra Preta is my least favorite of these three and it’s prominent here.

La Tierra Mojada with Mega Flora: This combination is an intriguing green mix. These two together lean more feminine in the opening, as it’s mostly green stems and white florals, but I wouldn’t call it a “pretty” fragrance. A more noticeably pungent accord from Mega Flora keeps things fairly unisex, and the drydown feels almost soapy. The overall experience is nice, but not such an improvement over either fragrance individually that I’d consider a purchase.

Mega Flora with Terra Preta: This pairing is better than I anticipated. Mega Flora’s greenness helps tone down Terra Preta’s almost overwhelming accord, making it feel a little like literal potting soil and more in the realm of a very earthy vetiver. This actually may be my favorite pairing. It reminds me ever so slightly of Shalimar at times in the drydown, though the effect is less smolder and more boulder. Call it Shalimar L’eau, if you will.

All three and overall impression: Worn together, I find this triptych better than the sum of its parts. It feels like a complete and complex fragrance, like a better performing version of PAA’s Otra. Dosed with preferences in mind, the trio forms a nice little vignette of soil, stem, and blooms, and it’s kind of fun to get a feel for how each part contributes to the whole.

However, considering the aftershave/cologne is priced at a $26/100 ml, you’re looking at $78 to achieve the effect. That’s not unreasonable, but it’s a lot to ask when the individual fragrances (and some of the “duets”) don’t quite stand on their own. The price of admission jumps even more if we’re talking the EDP, but YMMV.

Mega Flora by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Though not a “love”, Mega Flora is an unexpected “like” for me.

My first impression of this fragrance came in warmer weather, where green stems really came through in the opening.

Having now tested this in the springtime, I’ve grown to appreciate some additional nuances more apparent in cooler weather. Overall, Mega Flora has a similar effect to PAA’s Otra: the green notes are not really “florist’s cooler” so much as they are “spring twigs”. That is: the greenness here is more woody than it is vegetal, though plenty green in effect.

This one also plays a bit differently depending on where I wear it. On my wrist, I get an almost Acqua Allegoria Herba Fresca effect, though again more woody-vegetal than crisp-green. Under my shirt (on a masculine chest) where my fragrances tend to wear warmer, deeper, and more rounded, Mega Flora takes more of a floral turn, reminding me (conceptually) at times of lily of the valley on a forest floor on a crisp spring morning. Again like Otra, this isn’t a loud fragrance, so don’t let the name or this impression scare you away: this is a solidly unisex and fairly versatile fragrance.

Speaking of performance, don’t expect to be noticed wearing this unless in close quarters. Mega Flora would be a nice option for doctor’s offices, airplanes, or classrooms.

Mega Flora works best for me in the spring, when temperatures in the Midwest are still a bit chilly but warmer days are on the horizon.

One final note: PAA notes that Mega Flora was designed to be worn in combination with two other limited releases: Terra Preta and La Tierra Mojada. You can read my reviews of those individual fragrances, but I’ve also worn every possible combination of these three and here is what I’ve found:

Terra Preta with La Tierra Mojada: Terra Preta’s “potting soil” accord overwhelms in the opening, but doesn’t add a ton of depth in the base, where I’d really appreciate it. This combination is less a “weaving” of the two and more an unrefined mashup. I’m not a fan, mostly because Terra Preta is my least favorite of these three and it’s prominent here.

La Tierra Mojada with Mega Flora: This combination is an intriguing green mix. These two together lean more feminine in the opening, as it’s mostly green stems and white florals, but I wouldn’t call it a “pretty” fragrance. A more noticeably pungent accord from Mega Flora keeps things fairly unisex, and the drydown feels almost soapy. The overall experience is nice, but not such an improvement over either fragrance individually that I’d consider a purchase.

Mega Flora with Terra Preta: This pairing is better than I anticipated. Mega Flora’s greenness helps tone down Terra Preta’s almost overwhelming accord, making it feel a little like literal potting soil and more in the realm of a very earthy vetiver. This actually may be my favorite pairing. It reminds me ever so slightly of Shalimar at times in the drydown, though the effect is less smolder and more boulder. Call it Shalimar L’eau, if you will.

All three and overall impression: Worn together, I find this triptych better than the sum of its parts. It feels like a complete and complex fragrance, like a better performing version of PAA’s Otra. Dosed with preferences in mind, the trio forms a nice little vignette of soil, stem, and blooms, and it’s kind of fun to get a feel for how each part contributes to the whole.

However, considering the aftershave/cologne is priced at a $26/100 ml, you’re looking at $78 to achieve the effect. That’s not unreasonable, but it’s a lot to ask when the individual fragrances (and some of the “duets”) don’t quite stand on their own. The price of admission jumps even more if we’re talking the EDP, but YMMV.

Bay Gum by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I’ve waited a good year before writing this review. Many in the wetshaving community spoke glowingly of Bay Gum when it was released in the 2023 PAA advent calendar, and I blind bought a bottle when it was fully released nearly three months later. My initial reaction was disappointment, so I’ve given this some extra time to make sure I’m coming at it unbiased. Ultimately, though I actually find Bay Gum rather agreeable, I’m also not eager to recommend it.

Bay Gum opens with a semi-sweet, lightly spiced accord of the eponymous ingredients: bay rum and Juicy Fruit gum. However, I wouldn’t call it bay rum with fruity sweetness so much as Juicy Fruit with a touch of bay and spice (you’ll be hard pressed to find any rum). I think this distinction is important to make; this is a “Juicy Fruit” fragrance first and foremost.

So what does that mean, exactly? For those familiar with PAA, I find the opening similar in style to PAA’s seasonal release Clown Fruit. That one already gets compared to Juicy Fruit gum, so no surprises there. Bay Gum, however, is much less rich than Clown Fruit, lacking the combo of (among other things) burnt sugar, oak, and tobacco. In its place, we have instead a very mild bay and spices accord I don’t think many would confuse for bay rum.

This opening accord is predominantly what we get as the fragrance wears, eventually fading into mid notes of mostly that Juicy Fruit. It actually wears pretty well in warm weather, despite the spices and the (relatively dry) sweetness.

As for the base, it’s pretty light. You know the almost-powdery feeling and smell of a piece of fruity gum right out of the wrapper? That’s the impression I get in the drydown. Not sweet pink bubblegum like that pictured on the label, but confectioners sugar lightly dusting a pale yellow stick of un-chewed gum.

The fragrance was apparently inspired by someone chewing Juicy Fruit while wearing one of PAA’s bay rums. All-in-all, Bay Gum captures the Juicy Fruit part of the brief, but I find the bay rum is really lacking. And this is coming from someone who isn’t crazy about bay rum!

Wear time is pretty good; the flavor should last all day for my hairy-chested brethren. Projection is right in my wheelhouse: noticeable to the wearer, but not obtrusive. Best suited for spring and summer, I think, though this one is fairly versatile.

Overall, Bay Gum is a nice fragrance but not nearly as quirky or complex as I’d hoped. I’ll make use of my aftershave/cologne, but had I purchased a sample instead, I don’t think I would have bought a full bottle.

Neutral.

Planet Phoenix by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Planet Phoenix opens in a way that reminds me a bit of honeyed patchouli - very earthy-green, almost minty, with a touch of sweetness. This is my favorite part of the fragrance and it lasts a good hour with pretty good projection.

As the fragrance mellows, I’m reminded of L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme in a way - is that star anise and a touch of dustiness? The similarity is fleeting, but that was the first place my mind went. PAA calls planet Phoenix an attar, so perhaps I’m not too far off in the association.

The real star of the show, however, appears to be the frangipani. Though I’ve never smelled it on its own, I understand it has an almost powdery, peach-like aroma. In Planet Phoenix, it adds a soapy element to an otherwise sumptuous, somewhat resinous fragrance. This, combined with the labdanum, is what I believe is causing my mind to think ‘patchouli’.

Rounding out the notes are a touch of neroli and orange in the opening and some subtle, clean oud in the base. There’s nothing here that should cause non-fans of these notes to balk; they mostly round out the top and bottom.

Projection is respectable, and it lasts the workday. I could vaguely pick up the impression of earthy-ambery labdanum on my skin the morning after. Overall, this is a fairly simple but also unique (to my nose) fragrance well worth a $2 sample. I’ve added the aftershave/cologne to my collection.

Awesome Sauce by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Awesome Sauce is green, minty, and mentholated in the opening. There is a noticeable (STRONG) cooling effect on skin, making it a great wear for warm weather.

Overall it’s a bit less citrusy, slightly more “green”, and a bit smoother than Proraso Green Splash. Awesome Sauce also lasts longer, but otherwise it’s a pretty spot on rendition. The 100 ml aftershave/cologne from PAA will set you back $26, which isn’t significantly more than the Proraso.

Shave Chaser by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

This one is a little different than my (modern) bottle of Skin Bracer aftershave. It’s got less lavender and the mint is more mentholated and less “green”, making Shave Chaser less “smooth” overall. There is also something vaguely sweet (almost candied) in the opening.

Once things dry down, however, it’s a nice (and longer-lasting) homage to the classic. I wouldn’t say it projects more, however, so whether or not $26 for 100ml of “aftershave/cologne” is worth it to you probably depends on your feelings about the original.

For me? I’m perfectly happy with my $5 Skin Bracer aftershave.

Neutral.

Danaid Foil 50 by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Danaid Foil 50 is PAA’s homage to Tom Ford’s Ombré Leather. It is a seasonal/limited release that typically appears around Valentine’s Day.

If you’re looking for an easier to wear, slightly more masculine version of Ombré Leather, look no further. If you want a more spot-on rendition, try Cremo’s Vintage Suede instead. Both are extremely affordable and have their own merits.

Danaid Foil 50 focuses more on a rough leather and fresh violet. It still has that “oily” texture of Ombré Leather, but it’s a brighter, lighter wear. The leather is also less smooth and more “rough cut”, which makes it a more casual wear. Where Ombré Leather is smoothly blended, there is more note separation in Danaid Foil 50.

In summary, this isn’t an exact clone. Call it Ombré Leather Cologne (it is an Aftershave/Cologne after all). That said, it’s no slouch in performance. Though more of a deft wear, my wife commented on it after a full 10 hours. I actually prefer it to Ombré Leather for everyday wear.

Tribute by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I go back and forth on Tribute. Some days I like it, others I don’t.

Off the dipper stick from the sample vial, I found it a nice, soapy, almost-ambery kind of smell. Nothing ground-breaking, but enjoyable.

On skin, Tribute opens with more of a pronounce almond/cherry note backed by dry sandalwood. After things settle down, it’s predominantly sandalwood.

Overall, this is a nice fragrance, if a bit simple. I don’t think PAA does sandalwood as well as they do other notes (resins, for instance), but then I’m not exactly a fan of it as the main player in a fragrance anyway.

Performance-wise, Tribute is the kind of fragrance you can easily lose track of during the day. I actually enjoy that aspect of it, because it does give off a sort of “well put together” vibe.

Tribute was discontinued in early 2025, but if you’re itching for a sandalwood fragrance from PAA, their Supreme Sandalwood Science is essentially the same, minus the cherry/almond accord.

Neutral.

Doppelgänger Black Label by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

A Sauvage for those who don’t like Sauvage?

Doppelgänger Black is, according to the brand, an homage to Dior Sauvage. To my nose, though, it is more akin to a Dior Homme 2020-style fragrance than Sauvage. It’s much quieter than Sauvage and is missing that sharp metallic accord.

Regardless, you should know approximately what you’re getting here: bergamot, pink pepper, and fake woods (is it ambroxan? cashmeran?...who cares).

Projection is low, but it lasts the workday. I’m ambivalent to this style and indifferent to this release, in particular. If you like this type of fragrance and are looking for bath and body products to complete your routine, maybe pick up a sample and see if it suits.

As for me, I’ll pass, but it deserves a neutral rating for affordability, wearability, and versatility.

Cavendish by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

Cavendish is not overly complex, but is executed with levity.

I mostly get the smell of raw (unsmoked) tobacco with some light leather and a touch of vanilla. The smoke is subtle, if there at all. There’s a bit of subtle cherry-like boozy sweetness in the opening, but it’s short-lived. Overall, this is a tobacco fragrance through and through.

I find many tobacco-forward fragrances a bit too heavy for my tastes, but the aftershave/cologne wears very comfortably. Projection is modest and wear time is a solid 6 hours; this is a cozy fragrance for cold evenings by a fireplace.

Overall, Cavendish is not a fragrance I’m jumping to add to my collection, but for dyed-in-the-wool tobacco fans, it’s a must-try. This was PAA’s second ever scent, and they offer all sorts of ancillary products to suit your needs.

Thumbs up.

Blue Moon Bay Rum by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

My wife’s initial impression: “that smells like Christmas potpourri.” I mostly concur; the opening blast is a sweet blueberry intermingled with sharp conifers. It’s very sweet, but it’s a dry kind of sweetness.

After a few hours, the blueberry fades, the spruce mellows, and the overall vibe, unfortunately, is “Yankee Candle” for me. Here, it’s kind of a sweet coniferous “blob”, with little note separation or nuance. If there are any spices here, they come across more like incense (a la norlimbanol).

The drydown is tolerable. If you use your imagination, I guess it kind of smells like bay leaves and spruce, but this is no bay rum.

Performance is very good for an aftershave/cologne. I get all-day wear time with just a few splashes; this would be unbearable to wear as an aftershave. Fans of PAA’s Douglas Fir or (especially) Hinoki and Sage should get along with Blue Moon Bay Rum just fine.

This was the first fragrance from the 2024 PAA advent calendar to get a full release, largely due to the positive feedback on social media. To be frank, I just don’t get it. While Blue Moon Bay Rum smells fine (in an obnoxious air freshener kind of way), there’s nothing remarkable about it, and the functional connotations are a bit too strong for my taste. While not a strong thumbs down, it’s a thumbs down from me nonetheless.

For a much better “holiday” fragrance, stick with Burberry London.

CaD by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

I’m not *that* familiar with the story behind CaD, but I understand the name is an abbreviation for “cease and desist”. Apparently Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements was a little too on point with the original name (“Barbersoul”).

A lot of shaving/grooming brands have their version of this kind of fragrance, often marketed as an alternative to YSL’s Rive Gauche. I’ve never smelled Rive Gauche, so I can’t comment on any similarities, but I can compare it to a few others in this style I’ve tried. Unless otherwise noted, my review is of the Aftershave/Cologne.

Compared side-by-side to Fine Accoutrements’ American Blend Aftershave, CaD is more mossy (even noticeably minty in the opening). After about an hour, American Blend Aftershave exhibits a sharper anise (almost Azzaro Pour Homme-like) accord, while CaD stays mossier and smoother. The two are relatively close in the drydown, with CaD maintaining the same mossy-green texture and American Blend Aftershave picking up some greener facets, as well. Of the two, I much prefer CaD. American Blend Aftershave is more of a white t-shirt kind of fragrance, while CaD is more for the office (but by no means formal). American Blend Aftershave last but a few hours.

Up next: CaD EDP (which I purchased blind). Overall, the EDP is richer and darker in the opening, adding a bit of “brown” to the Aftershave/Cologne’s “white”. While I find the Aftershave/Cologne has an almost Mousse Illuminée-like quality (or is it Bon Monsieur?), the EDP loses some of that mossy sparkle in favor of a soapy-pungent woodiness more in line with fragrances like Bois du Portugal (though by no means equivalent in depth, structure, or quality). The drydown of the EDP is for the most part similar to the Aftershave/Cologne, but noticeably flatter.

There’s no great way to sample the EDP, so if you’re on the fence (or have some PAA rewards you’re looking to spend), I’d actually say to go with the Aftershave/Cologne. I’ve no issues with performance with either concentration, but the Aftershave/Cologne already lasts all day (and then some) when applied to my (admittedly hairy) chest (though projection is modest). The EDP, due to its “flatness”, is actually worse in my experience, and tweaks the formula enough that I wish I’d bought the Aftershave/Cologne.

Finally, Dua’s River Fougere: this one is head and shoulders above the rest. It has the same mossy facets of CaD, but is luxuriously rich and sophisticated. Unlike CaD EDP, it jumps off the skin. There is an amber-like quality to River Fougere which brings to mind fragrances like Beau de Jour (which I won’t include in the comparisons here because I find it different enough to be its own thing). If CaD is an office fragrance, River Fougere is for board meetings. That said, you may want to go lighter on the trigger, as performance is exceptional.

Overall, on the spectrum of “classic Barbasol-like fragrances”, I place the aforementioned fragrances thusly:

Beau de Jour < —— > River Fougere < —— > CaD Aftershave/Cologne < —— > CaD EDP < —— > American Blend Aftershave < —— > Azzaro Pour Homme

This isn’t a ranking, just a sort of comparison of which fragrance (to my nose) smells closest to the next. If you’re more of an Azzaro guy, American Blend might be worth a sniff. If (like me) you prefer the richness of Beau de Jour, River Fougere is my recommendation. CaD occupies a sort of middle ground that should appeal to about anyone, but falls short of “wow” for me.

Thumbs up for the Aftershave/Cologne. For the EDP: neutral.

Avo Nice Shave by Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements

The opening of Avo Nice Shave smells slightly creamy with a burst of green fruit. It is reminiscent of kiwi, perhaps, but with a jolt of something neon. Avocado doesn’t really come to mind, but neither does it smell like any of the other listed notes. There’s not much progression as the base approaches; it mostly gets lighter, with an almost spa-like soapiness reminiscent of a nice shampoo.

All-in-all, it’s not the most dynamic fragrance - and I almost tire of wearing it for that reason - but performance hits the Goldilocks zone for me: not so strong that it’s uncomfortable or overbearing but strong and long-lasting enough to make a nice clean impression well after application.

My wife commented - unsolicited - the first time I wore it that it reminds her of a bright blue drink. She commented another time I wore it: “is that the one that smells like ‘cool blue’?” Avo Nice Shave isn’t likely to make anyone’s top ten list, but it’s a really nice fragrance for all-season casual wear. I’ll likely pick up a bottle the next time it’s in production.

Thumbs up.