Perfume Reviews by VanAllan

Cubata by Jacques Zolty

A boozy tobacco scent with above average performances. Honey, dirty spices and rum envelope the fresh tobacco leaves core over the development of fragrance on skin, completed with a sweet spicy woody (amber, tonka and gaiacwood) in the late drydown. My personal rating 8. 5/10, recommended for tobacco scents aficionados.

Philippe II by Charriol

This was a nice surprise for a big Kouros fan like me, the resemblances are uncanny, what we have here is a more basic/fresher version of the mighty King, without the famous incense, honey, civet and musky-ambergris base as the fresher character continues into the drydown with a classic vetiver, patchouli and fir balsam combo. Good projection and longevity for an affordable edp version. Recommended for fans of classic masculine scents.

Severo by Jacques Zolty

A photo-realistic scent featuring a Cuba Libre cocktail-like aroma with lime, rum and cola apparent top notes. Slightly smoky birch with bitter davana and a dash of pepper in the middle keep the whole boozy accord out of a sweet path leaving space for the musky-ambery drydown which completes this summery-joyfull scent feeling. Athough a bit 'synthetic' overall, Severo does its job well enough to put me in a relaxing mood and bring a smile on my face everytime I'm wearing it. Cheers! and enjoy !

Les Eaux de l'Est : Buveur de Vent by Liquides Imaginaires

Dusty woody leather...
A strong aromatic-dusty fougere opening with bitter-spicy undertones, skillfully mixed in middle stage with leather and woody supporting notes (cedar, cypress and oakmoss).
Just dipping along dry-down into light sweet territory, but overall remains a masculine (and slightly bitter) spicy-woody-leathery scent. Good performances, a classy non-sweet composition in a beautiful bottle, recommended.

Noir Epices by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Formal orange peel...
A strange name choice for a very uncommon scent that debutes with a peppery orange rind combined with the fresh-aromatic side of clove and nutmeg. Here at top I perceive it more as a metallic-aldehydic than a woody-spicy type. Rose stem is also present along top spices, but it soon gets envelopped in a sweet touch of cinnamon and geranium, everything packed over the scent's evolution in a distant woody-earthy-sweet background (ubiquitous Malle's patchouli, creamy sandalwood and cedarwood).
What I realised over the first wearings is that I never smelled this combination before and took for granted Mr. Malle's own declaration about this scent being 'one of the most enigmatic scent of our collection'. It is an original creation, I give him that.
More so, in this great formal Roudnitska creation, the dusty orange peel never really goes off, it gets intensified in the middle by the aromatic fresh spices and then slightly changed by the creamy woody notes.
Very strong presence in the first 3 hrs., it mellows just a bit at the 4th hour mark, but overall it performs very good in terms of projection and longevity. My humble rank 9/10, recommended to both genres for its unicity and performances.

Dûsara by Anima Mundi

Aromatic dusty woods...
First encounter reminded me of a different version of L'AP Timbuktu (without incense).
Green citruses and woods, surrounded by dusty amber-saffron, that slowly progressed into a sandy oud-semi-sweet-cypress dry-down. Hard to describe actually, it never gets too sweet, just projects an aromatic dusty warm musky woods composition. Above average performances, a good recommendation for fans of L'AP Timbuktu and/or FM French Lover (I own and love both). My ranking 8/10.

Daring by Isabella Rossellini

This marvelous (and sadly discontinued) creation is one of my all-time favorite scents for my better half and (happily) still one of her signature scents.
The superb combination of peppery coriander, mellow jasmine, smooth-aromatic peony and the wonderful earthy sweetness of honey is pretty addictive and seductive, nothing harsh or too sweet here, but in addition, everything is packed harmoniusly and wrapped in a woody resinous alluring vale of myrrh, white musk and sweet sandalwood.
Longevity is very good (over 6 hrs.) and the trail left behind tells a beautiful story of an elegant and warm-hearted lady.

Rumz al Rasasi 9325 pour lui by Rasasi

I bought this last month out of curiosity, as I found it pretty cheap and it resembles Aventus pretty much, especially the fruitier batch of it. What I really like about, it keeps those Aventus' smoky-fruity top notes a long time (with a slight addition of some lime in the beginning), so even if it doesn't evolve too much, for me it's a good thing in this case.

Longevity/sillage are also pretty effective, I got around 6-8 hrs, depending on the amount of sprays. All in one, it's one of my best blind buys this year.

La Nuit de L'Homme Frozen Cologne by Yves Saint Laurent

A brighter and more 'energetic' version of the already classic La Nuit, for those occasions when you don't want to wear something fancy or too elegant, but still want to smell good...and it really delivers in that area.
It also appears more 'natural' and for sure fresher than the original, and imo, this addition makes it more wearable and suitable for almost all year round.
Middle and base notes are still carrying La Nuit genes, but I find it less formal (sweet) and easier to wear. I own and love both versions for different occasions or moods. Longevity and sillage seems somehow milder but more than reasonable. My personal rank 8.6/10 ☣☣☣☣. Recommended.

Noir de Réminiscence by Réminiscence

I've (kind of) blind bought Reminiscence Noir, after asking opinions from other reputable members and it took me at least 2-3 full wearings to actually love it.
It's an unusual scent, a very smooth combination of fresh and oriental notes: moist-resinous eucalyptus with a fresh bergamot welcome you in top notes, followed by a smoky unsweeten balsamic incense middle stage, very realistic (reminds me our orthodox churches in a Sunday). Base notes are come their way much further, with sweet flowers, amber and a faint vanilla, all surrounded by the dry incense vale.
A good quality not-so-known scent and a valuable addition to my collection. My personal rank 8.8/10. Recommended.

L'Eau du Navigateur by L'Artisan Parfumeur

My first 'niche' fragrance and one of the few scents in my collection that blew me away instantly. After reading all I could find about it and decided for another blind buy, I couldn't believe at first wearing it is a fragrance created during the 80's !...it has so many great notes I usually appreciate in a man's fragrance: bitter roasted coffee, spices, leather, dry floral, incense, tobacco - everything packed harmoniously and delivering a stunning and intriguing oriental scent.
When I wear this, I imagine myself on a chill morning in a torn leather jacket on the upper deck of an old sail, drinking coffee from a tin can and enjoying the smell of Eastern spices coming from under the deck. In this regard, for me, L'Eau du Navigateur is more than a fragrance...it's a marvelous adventure of senses.
My humble ranking 9.5/10. Highly recommended.

Eau Sauvage Parfum (original) by Christian Dior

Another marvelous fragrance from Dior.
I think it's important to keep in mind that is not an 'intense' version of the traditional Eau Sauvage. This one is pretty much different and, imo, the main difference here is the masterfully simplicity of combining three wonderful masculine notes (bergamot, myrrh and vetiver). The result: a balsamic, exotic, sweet-citrusy masterpiece and, in my opinion, the reason of the success of this release.

More oriental and a little bit darker than its Extreme predecesor, with a wonderful myrrh note, very well combined in the whole of the composition, surrounded by a zesty citrus top and an earthy vetiver base. It lasts 6-10 hrs on skin, with a noticeable presence in the first 2 hrs, a versatile and compelling creation. My personal rank 9/10.

Eau Sauvage Extrême (new / Intense) by Christian Dior

A (somehow) modernized version of the classic Eau Sauvage, for sure aimed to younger people, as it presents sweeter and fruitier top notes with smooth lavender and patchouli mixed in, followed by aromatic-spicy notes (basil, coriander, rosemary) combined with some musty-green aldehydes, mellow jasmine and a creamy sandalwood that lead the way to the longlasting base where it loses some of the fruity-aromatic accord in favour of woody-honeyed notes (oakmoss, cedar, patchouli, smoky amber).
On my skin it has a wonderful evolution, similar (to a certain extent and adequate proportions) with Guerlain Homme Intense, Hermes Voyage EDP and Chanel Allure Blanche.
Great projection/sillage in the first 1-2 hrs. then close to skin, lasting on me up to 6-8 hrs. Overall a solid quality fragrance from Dior at a fair price.
My personal ranking 8.8/10

Derby by Guerlain

A woody-flowery-chypre masterpiece from the former times which managed to retain the glory of this genre: artemisia, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood are the most evident to my nose, all packed in a natural efortless blending to entertain your nostrils and reminds you how real men's fragrances used to be. Guerlain is one of my preffered houses and its releases never failed me. My humble rank 8/10

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

An iconic fragrance and a reference in the scent world, which I used to hate when I was a student (when a lot of foreign students wore it way too loud making it unbearable for most of us).
I tried it again couple of weeks ago and it caught me because on one hand my nose has 'matured' meanwhile along with my increasing collection and on the other hand this reformulated version is (fortunately) more bearable for me, so when I got the chance I bought it happily.
Coriander, sage, bergamot with a touch of honey sweetness is what I get from the start, followed quickly by a mellowing flowery combo of geranium, patchouli and carnation, with the top aromatic-sweetness still in background. In the next 2 hrs the scent matures in its leathery-animalic-musky base, very mature and compelling.
A great 'barbershop' style frag for me which I really like it a lot and even if it's kinda 'weak' now (for other collectors who used to treasure its vintage version's power) it suits me well and so others noses around me. My rank 8/10 - a keeper in my everyday wardrobe.

Signature pour Homme by S.T. Dupont

Got a small (30ml) bottle a week before Christmas, due to its good price and the reviews read all over.
An elegant oriental fragrance that features (on my skin) mostly its flowery spicy-balsamic-ambery notes, in this order. Less vanilic/flowery than Jaipur PH and more spicy-ambery than Jacomo for Men. Heliotrope, birch, incense and benzoin are also present but more in the background, giving to the whole a nice sweet-balsamic support. Pretty linear development from the spicy semi-aromatic top to the creamy-ambery drydown, good for close encounters and cold weather on special occasions. My rank 7.7/10

212 Men On Ice (2010) by Carolina Herrera

Simply marvelous! The touch of black pepper over the violet, sensual licorice and smooth musky woods make this discontinued flanker more special than the original in my book and turns an everyday fragrance into a sexy nighttime beast. I was very happy to put my hands on a full unopened bottle of this beauty, great longevity, silage and I see it entering proudly in my top 20.

Narciso Rodriguez for Him by Narciso Rodriguez

A beautiful strange fragrance and even though very typical of aromatic-fougere type.
I bought this 2 weeks ago and eager to try it I sprayed 3 shots and was hitted instantly by a dark cloud of grey amber, violet leaf, patchouli & musk that almost choked my senses. It's like a dirty oily concrete perimeter that surrounds a violet & patchouli garden under a spring rain and I just Love it !.
The spray mechanism is very effective so I would say a max. 3-4 sprays in a normal day to get the whole feeling experience. Ambery, fougere, wet, musky, aromatic, dark, long-lasting...it has them all !.
My personal rank 8.8/10. Nice job Francis Kurkdjian !

Must de Cartier pour Homme by Cartier

One of the reasons I didn't tried before this beauty is Must de Cartier pour Femme which my wife got as present and we both hated it, until it 'walked' away to her sister.
Yesterday I've come across in local Sephora over a lost-on-the-rack tester of this (along with only one very expensive bottle) and gave it a try...Ohh my!... what an alluring and elegant smell!. Smooth cinnamon over an oily barbershop vibe (I think anise, olive leaf, cinnamon and ginger are masterfully blended in top-middle notes) lending to a not-so-sweet woody-oriental base ('dirty' Cartier's signature patchouli & musk, some tonka, little vetiver and a wonderful creamy sandalwood) which I liked so much.
Rather average projection but pretty long-lasting and one of the best classic orientals in my book.
Needless to say I hunted for few hours one of the last bottles online, which will be a staple in my wardrobe. My rank 8.6/10.

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme by Guerlain

Received weeks ago this beauty in mail...after a long staying in my want list and shopping for others just because they are discontinued and harder to find, I decided to finally add this Guerlain masterpiece in my collection.
A modern and also fastidious fragrance for gentlemen, suitable almost all year round (well, maybe except warm days of summer), beautifully evolving on skin and keeping you constantly amazed. It has all the way that 'guerlinade' signature, that sensual 'je-ne-sais-quoi' which makes wonders on your and others nostrils.
This creation has everything I could demand from a fragrance: complex evolution from bitter-citrus top going through smooth flowers ending into sweet-cocoa-like-woody drydown, wow factor from ladies, is long lasting, has good projection, elegance and modernism.
My humble rank 9.5/10.

A*Men : Les Parfums de Cuir / Pure Leather by Thierry Mugler

Sitting in front of my computer 1hr. after testing this with a generous shot on my wrist. I was very curious to try this as I'm not a fan of original A*Men, but I just love B*Men and TOF.
I simply cannot classify this so called 'leather' edition as Leather, because what I get from it is a sweet-milky-suede poured on top of a smoother A*Men, that intensifies on my skin the caramel and patchouli notes. Very oriental-gourmand I guess...
I also think this flanker is the closest related to original, so for now I'll pass. In MY book, is still a step behind B*Men and TOF.
I keep the generous sample SA offered me, who knows, maybe some colder day will do better justice for this. 7.8/10 for now.

Voyage d'Hermes Parfum by Hermès

Better in my book than many similar mentioned fragrances, especialy EDT edition and Cartier Essence.
Strong bitter-fresh-spicy combo at top (coriander-plenty, make me think of Eau de Cartier Concentree, pepper and some bitter fresh notes from juniper), stayed on my skin more than 1 hr., until the green flowery middle notes take the stage (beautiful rose-like feeling, it remembers me in some aspects of Burberry Brit, or an aromatic tea-like the one in Gucci PH II) putting some of the spices in background, but still going strong.
After 3-4 hrs, the base kicks in and the amber-y/woody notes melt the whole in an elegant aura that remains on skin a long time, asking to be sniffed more and more. Unisex?!...who cares? My personal rank 9/10.
I love it by now and thinking at the moment when I will own and enjoy it, I only can say: "The best is yet to come" :)

A*Men Sunessence Orage d'Ete / Summer Storm by Thierry Mugler

This beauty came in my mail 2 months ago after a blind buy based only on reviews found online and recommendations from other users. Taking into account the fact that I don't like A*Men, I can say that I really love this limited edition, as it has very little in common with original.

A sharp & tonic opening, perceived as fruity & little sweet, very appropiate for spring sunny days, followed by a spicy patchouli, smooth coffee & some woods combination, very very good indeed.

As a limited edition I couldn't be more happy that I didn't miss it (like I did with others wanted limited flankers) and I can throughly recommend it to those who think original A*Men is too much for them.

Longevity is not an issue by itself...personally there are many times I don't want a fragrance to stay with me all day and get tired of it, so I would say about 4-5 hrs, with a noticeable presence in the first two. My rank 8/10. A truly nice surprise...

Prada Amber pour Homme by Prada

Prada Man is one of my favourite after shave applying fragrances when I dress up a clean shirt for work or even casually after a long shower in a sunny Sunday morning. Clean, luxury soapy, little herbal, complex development and long-lasting, it makes me feel relaxed, clean and confident.
Personally I have no issues with its so called feminine side because it delivers fully a soapiness -freshness that I expect from it and that's enough for me.
Worth mentioning that after testing about 10-15 'new' fragrances I bought relatively cheap a big splash bottle and I use a few drops over a neutral moisturizing cream that make miracles on my skin: projection is very good and the overall feeling is fantastic. I just love it. My rank 8.5/10.