Armani Code Colonia
Giorgio Armani (2017)

Armani Code Colonia, with its icy-salty-metallic, somewhat airy, floral, vaguely cologney and freshly cedary appeal, represents a significant deflection from the classic (darker, less woody with its central touch of guaiac wood, focused on the main interaction of citrus, olive-flower, tobacco/amber and soft leather) Antoine Lie's Armani Code/Black Code (2004)-formula. This new Colonia smells kind of more aligned with such of "new age not traditionally barber-shop/cologney floral aromatic airy/bright and woody colognes" a la Dior Homme Cologne (2013) or Mercedes-Benz Cologne (2016). Armani Code Colonia, announced as a simplistic composition more easy to wear, has been issued on the market in early 2017 with hight (partially not fulfilled) expectations. The nose performer Antoine Maisondieu aimed to introduce a touch of floral/metallic freshness and hints of aromatic woodiness to the classic formula by adding a touch of aromatics and synthetic floral molecules. Actually he performs a significantly brighter type of aromatic fougére with hints of orange blossoms, a cedary woody undertone, a vaguely minty character and a touch of lingering saltiness. The floral aromatic vibe is utterly enhanced by salicylate molecule, a quite fresh floral synth note with vaguely metallic sparks and ylang-ylang's echoes. Opening is quite bright, spicy, citric and aromatic with notes of bergamot, mandarin and pink pepper. This opening gradually introduces a quite floral slightly balsamic central stage mastered by salicylate and orange blossoms (elements replacing the silky oily olive blossoms of the original Armani Black Code-formula). The final stage is basically woody (more woody than ambery imo unlike the original Code and without any trace of "hairy" tobacco) with hints of tonka and heliotrope providing hints of bright airy mildness (more veiled in the original Code-formula). The aroma remains cedary/salty/balsamic and definitely floral till the end of the trip. It seems vague ozonic patterns could have been included in the blend. This creation is not groudbreaking but is not definitely uninspired. It preserves a fougére structure but adds to it a woody floral (vaguely exotic) aura and hidded salty elements, finally deflecting towards a sweeter floral aromatic woodiness whilst the original formula was more focused on warm amber and dark tobacco. Colonia is an elegant bold virile composition which could be better exploited in hot climates and for outdoos spring-summer events.

Shades of Pi Neo
In a bleu flanker that fell
Not far from both trees.

The smell of this cologne wouldn't be offensive if it weren't so powerful. Overwhelming to the extent that even one spray is too much.

Full disclosure here: I am not a huge fan of Armani Code/Black Code (2004). My original reason for being neutral on that scent was the middling combination of scratchy ambers and powdery "olive flower" note that when mixed with the guiaic wood note and tonka, didn't do anything special but annoy me on skin, but when smelled from afar was quite pleasant enough to at least not think ill of the wearer. A lot of people love Armani Code, and many flankers expanding the line attest to that, so my indifference is a minority opinion. Still, flankers these days are often known to be altogether different creatures compared to the pillar release, so investigating them even when the pillar is not to my liking is usualy in order, which is how I discovered I liked Versace pour Homme Dylan Blue (2016) even though I hated the pillar Versace pour Homme (2008) for being the embodiment of marketing-designed drivel. Armani Code Colonia (2017) seeks to be the Versace Man Eau Frâiche (2006) to Armani Code's Versace Man (2003) if we are to continue the metaphorical Italian fashion house comparisons, but it doesn't really save the nameplate for me. Armani Code Colonia firstly isn't really a traditional eau de cologne, but also isn't even really a take on a cologne much like Dior Homme Cologne (2014) or Chanel Allure Homme Sport Cologne (2007) before it. The overall composition by Antoine Maisondieu, a perfumer capable of greatness but often shackled to low-rent briefs from designers looking to maximize market penetration and short-term profit, is exactly as you might expect: uninspired and completely missing the plot of its very existence. Forgettable is a word I could use, but I've a duty to expand on why I think that, so bear with me.

Going in, I expected a lighter and "fresher" take on Armani Code that potentially leans unisex due to the market labelling, but what I got instead was indeed a lightened "shell of Armani Code, with all the interesting bits also parsed out alongside the irritating bits. The olive flower is gone, but so is the guiaic wood, instead being a phoned-in "amberwoods" fragrance with tonka sweetness that sabotages the freshness of the opening in the end. Bergamot, mandarin, and lemon start out then burn off, only to be followed by pink pepper, a note widely-abused in post-aquatic blue masculines since Bleu de Chanel (2010) made it trendy. There's neroli in the heart to say "hey I'm a cologne" but it is drowned out in benzyl salicyclate actualy listed as a note. A word about salicyclates: They're used very heavily in perfume and are allergens that gets listed (alongside geraniol, oakmoss, linalool, and the like) in perfume ingredients found on boxes, but never are they a note on their own because like other aromachemicals of their ilk, they act as enhancers and do not have noticeable aromas unless highly overdosed, and like Iso E Super, can cause anosmia. Naturally, when you use something like benzyl salicyclate as a main heart note rather than as a buff for a more-distinct floral note (as intended), you get that crappy dryer sheets vibe that soon becomes tuned out for your own wellbeing by your nose-brain. Supposedly there is heliotrope listed in the base, but with restrictions on heliotropin, all I get is sweetness primarily derived from it, which then tamps down the hay-like clary sage. The base is then just modern tonka, "amberwood" (a monstrosity of an ambroxan-based note from Symrise), and white musks. Wear time is about 7 hours and performance in the projection/sillage department is moderate, so at least they got that part of the "cologne" aspect correct. I'd also call this casual all around.

Armani Code Colonia strikes me as another "fragrance for someone who hates fragrance" kind of deal, something you can spray on and forget about but say "hey it's Armani" when the random person tries to compliment you, but never have to worry about being "the cologne guy" let alone smelling it yourself because people have to get in close to even do that. Stuff like this has an audience, so I won't knock it if you're only into fragrance for this token/pragmatic sort of reason, but if you're into perfume for personal enjoyment at all, you'll be hard pressed to find much of value here. I've really resisted saying "boring and generic" as descriptors for Armani Code Colonia because ironically, using those terms in a review makes the review itself boring and generic, plus of no use to anyone, but at least I can say this fails so hard at being an eau de cologne that it isn't even unisex. I also call the freshness into question, which is a huge important factor to a proper eau de cologne, because after that brief citrus dissipates, I'm left with sweet detergent notes and cloying laundry musk with scratchy hints of the thankfully-subdued "amberwoods" accord that provides the backbone here. Using this in the dead of summer is no different than applying a similarly-sweet clubber just more lightly, making Armani Code Colonia feel like a huge mislabeling or just a massive misfire that somehow passed the snoozing quality testers. There had been little talk of this flanker before I went to try it, and beyond a few YouTubers saying "it really isn't that bad" (always a cognitive dissonance red flag in my book), nobody has had anything to say one way or the other. Well, I'm here to report that Armani Code Colonia is just awful, and there is no way around it for me, but test and determine for yourself. Thumbs down.

IMHO the perfect fresh but not overwhelming scent. Perfect for post evening shower or Church, office, or anywhere you want to smell fresh without drawing too much attention.

It doesn't smell bad, and it is not weak. Actually suprising since it is a cologne. But sweet and unimaginative. Doesn't feel like Code. All the Code flankers are blah.