Bergamask
Orto Parisi (2014)

At first i didnt care for it, but now i recognize why i dig it so much. It has the standard Orto Parisi industrial rustic musks, but this one has beautiful semi-candied citruses that are very addictive and easy to like. I find it simple, yet very well done and easy to wear.

There is something intriguing about Bergamask that has made me try it maybe ten times. But I finally resign: we will not be lovers. It triggers a kindergarden memory in me, more specifically the scent of plasticine that I think sticks with the musk. It is far too waxy, as if the stop motion crew of Aardman spilled a hot cup of Earl Grey Tea over the entire film set. Bergamot and tea over plasticine. I can see what Gualtieri is trying to do, because the impression of “dirty” and “corporal” that he seeks is not off the mark. But as happens quite often with modern aromachemicals, the petrochemical connotations are too strong and synthetic in an off-putting way for me.

Bergamask has really grown on me. Initially, I was not impressed--the opening smelled like a citrus-scented industrial cleaner. The sharpness of the citrus, however, was weirdly addictive; not especially pleasant, yet repeatedly intriguing.

Over the last few months I've discovered that the real magic, however, is in the dry-down. The citrus endures for the life of the fragrance, but it's soon joined by an animalic muskiness that works really well with my skin chemistry, almost like a natural body scent rather than a perfume: dry grass, a hint of something feral, whiffs of citrus and sandalwood.

Gualtieri's creations always seem somewhat messy, especially compared to buttoned-up designer frags or the pristine perfumes of the French houses that have clearly-delineated stages, but in this case the messiness compliments the theme of the fragrance: a rural Italian village dance in the middle of summer, clean sweat mixing with sun-ripened bergamot.

I dismissed Bergamask after a 1ml sample, but soon found myself missing it and ordered another one. Now that sample is almost gone, and a 2ml is on the way. I suspect a full bottle might be my next purchase.

At $195 for a 50ml bottle, it's expensive, but uniqueness and beast-mode performance make this one a 10/10. There's nothing else like it on the market.

Edit:

I was out of town on business this past week and didn't bring my Bergamask sample along. I missed it so much that I finally decided to splurge for a full bottle. Amazing stuff.

The first entry in the genre of "barnyard lemon", that is, if the barn was a place where you gave a country girl a good tumble in the hay. The bergamot has an almost invisible transition to an incredibly musky sandalwood affair, but every time I notice that it has already taken place it catches me off-guard, like a pleasant suckerpunch.

Strange yet freakishly appealing orange centered niche juice that's nuclear powered and extremely difficult to wash off. It also costs nearly $200. All of that aside, the unusual scent clings to you like super glue. Wish more fragrances behaved this way. Like it a lot

8/10

Orto Parisi Bergamask is a muscular and sensual modern reinterpretation of mediterranean aromatic/hesperidic older formulas a la D&G Pour Homme (original italian formula) to quote one (but more contemporary scents a la Askett&English Absolute jump on mind as well). Now therefore I have to specify this is not a light hesperidic fragrance, on the contrary this is a woody musky organic accord (more than vaguely conjuring the oceanic and equally animalic and spicier Geza Schoen Kinski) with a solid hesperidic/herbal aromatic soul and soft floral nuances. A powerful, stout, heavily hesperidic and masculine musky-woody accord based on herbal leafy italian bergamotto, spectacular neroli, aromatic lavender and animalic woody (mostly sandalwood I suppose) musk. All the other elements are revolving around these main key notes. Bergamask is definitely a mediterranean kind of fragrance with its sunny yellow main accord but the dominant muskiness is carnal, substantial and somewhat polarizing. I wonder if hints of other "animalics" are secretly supporting the general animalic muskiness. I love this southern bright kind of radiancy and its final "olfactory basement" of resinous/musky/sultry sensuality. There is definitely a floral presence all around which is mastered by neroli and romantic-melancholic muguet which is kind of vaguely "pungent", spicy and seductive. The yellow combination of neroli and herbal lime/bergamot appoints and characterizes the central olfactory vibe over a bright citrus initial burst while the juice gradually settling over a warmer soapier musky base utterly rounded up by cedar (cerdarwood and sandalwood under my vulgar nose) and soothing balsams. I wonder whether a touch of soapy tobacco (I get it) could have been secretly included in the italian formula. Bergamask is a sunny hot bold fragrace for open chested southern (well built) "rhythmical" seducers unbuttoned shirts, well tanned in their sweaty skin and flower in the mouths. Longevity and projection are incredibly powerful on my skin.

PS: To the reviewer who writes about "Citronella...." have him the patience to wait catching the brief evolution of this olfactory stout accord (one of my most complimented lately) and try him to pick up in the hands a real italian bergamot fruit in order to experiece its natural "kind of herbal-medicinal" sparkling vibe. For the other one hurrying up to scrubb it off from his skin and coping with the Bergamask's nuclear power I'd say that definitely, when you don't appreciate a fragrance, its nuclear durability could turn out as a real shortcoming for you (but just in this specific case). Synth musk? Yes, clear, what did you expected to smell?