Black Shroud
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements (2022)

If I had to describe Black Shroud in 5 words or fewer: classical, unisex, sultry, dandy, sandalwood. Many would call this dated, but I think it’s pretty timeless in its elegance. It would smell sexy on a woman.

The notes are not entirely distinct to my nose; it’s a bit of a “kitchen sink” fragrance and everything is well-blended. I can detect sandalwood in abundance from top to bottom, but everything else is a bit of a mash. PAA lists mint and menthol as opening notes, but they’re not all that evident to my nose. The rose, likewise, is blended so well that it doesn’t come across as rose proper - rather a melange of floral notes a la something like Caron’s Third Man, though less “gummy”. The overall effect is somewhat “soapy”, but in a sensual way. To that end, there’s something ever so slightly dirty here, as well. Vetiver, indistinct woods, and a touch of vanilla round out the base.

Black Shroud is powdery in effect, to the point I think some will make the association with baby products. Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements notes that it is an homage to vintage Woodhue by Faberge, but I can’t comment on that. I do think that fans of fragrances like the aforementioned Third Man or perhaps even Samsara might find Black Shroud intriguing. It definitely strikes me as very “French” in style.

Performance is respectable. I get 6 hours of wear time with adequate projection for my taste. It is fairly dense. I can smell it on my shirt the next day, but with a few exceptions, PAA aftershave/colognes are not loud, so set your expectations accordingly.

Now, all that said, would I purchase a bottle? Although $25 for 100ml of aftershave/cologne is relatively affordable, it just isn’t a fragrance I’d wear regularly, as it feels best suited to more formal situations.

Still, thumbs up.