Calèche Soie de Parfum
Hermès (1992)

Straight-up Dial soap. This could be useful when I can't be arsed to take a bath. Thankfully this was a gift, because I would never spend Hermès level cash to smell like a 99 cent bar of soap. I remember the old-school edt smelled like this as well. Not terrible, but definitely a work fragrance, where I don't care that much to wear something really nice.

I'm generally not a fan of re-workings and modernised versions of existing fragrances - especially classics like Caleche. However, in this case, Soie de Parfum (wherever did they get that name?) suits my skin far better then the Eau de Toilette.

Still unmistakably Caleche, Soie de Parfum simply smells more "rounded" than the edt, which tends to become rather sharp and sour on my skin. Sadly both concentrations lack much of the floral notes of the pure perfume, and are more about citrus.

I wouldn't say that Soie de Parfum (which, in theory is Eau de Parfum) is any stronger or longer lasting than the edt; rather a smoother (ok, that's where they got the name from) and less sharp version of exactly the same fragrance. Unmistakably Caleche, it suits my skin far better than the edt; however, the apparently discontinued pure perfume was my favourite.

A dense aroma of orange and bergamot hits me in the opening hit me at the start, and in immediately encased in the liberal lashing of aldehydes. Fairly soon an heavy rose notes arrives and merges with the top notes.

The rose intensifies as the drydown progresses, with the classic Damascene notes being lighter brightness of the May rose. The rose mix is rich, smooth but never really dark or heavy, and the rich sweetness is always balanced and never cloying in all its intensity. Later on an iris impression is added in too, and an almond-like undertone adds an added velvety characteristic.

The base adds wood notes, mainly cedar with the sandal being rather too weak on me. Touches of a mossy hint come and go, but in face of the heart notes it is virtually untraceable. Glimpses of vetiver add a bit of brightness towards the end.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and six hours of longevity on my skin.

This rich prefume-like creation is a scent for spring evenings. It is intense, displaying confident elegance and is sweet and floral at its core. The performance is good but not outstanding.
3.5/5.