Chypre Mousse (new)
Oriza L. Legrand (2013)

I love this fragrance. This is one of those perfumes that I could see myself wearing as a signature scent, that is, if I believed in that concept. Nevertheless, I find it perfect for my taste - earthy, mossy, woody, expertly blended, smooth, excellent performer, versatile (your mileage may vary), high-quality, and with a mythical flair. It is such a unique perfume, especially for a chypre. There’s nothing quite like it. I could draw a parallel with January Scent’s Burvuvu, not that they smell similar, but both evoke a magical forest, especially the vegetation that decorates the earth and the trees. Or, an old closet with moldy clothes:).

Chypre Mousse stays true to the Chypre family by pairing moss and resins to create that characteristic velvety effect; however, it departs from the classical structure by avoiding the top note clichés, and to my nose, by choosing to implement more of the treemoss (Evernia Furfuracea) as opposed to oakmoss (Evernia Prunastri). This latter observation is important as I find the two materials to be rather distinctive, with Evernia Furfuracea smelling more intensely woody and nutty, compared to Evernia Prunastri. Indeed, I believe the fantasy “chestnut accord” in Chypre Mousse is a result of that. Moreover, I am inclined to suspect it is also how they managed to preserve the formula over the years, since treemoss is not as heavily restricted by IFRA as oakmoss. As previously mentioned, at the top, they opt for an unusual combination of fennel, mushroom, mint, and various greens instead of the classical citrus or fruit. It is invigorating and unique. It makes me think of the forest breeze and, simultaneously, the forest floor, as the mushroom is quite prominent. Speaking of which, the third major element of this fragrance, and perhaps the deal-breaker for many, is the raw earthiness. Here, the name does it justice, as it comes across as an “earthy mousse.” Taking some patchouli, soil, dead vegetation, and mushrooms, further whipping them into a thick mousse-like consistency, topping it with treemoss, and sweetening it with some resins. The mint is served as a side dish. If you think it sounds disgusting, well, I guess it comes down to how much you love earthy scents. To me, it smells delicious. You might also think it could come across as rough and abrasive, in which case, please refer back to the name. Yep, they thought it all through.

Chypre Mousse is the kind of perfume I expect to smell in the artisanal realm, executed with an expert’s skill and experience. Unique, bewitching, and distinctive. Lastly, regarding how it held up over these years (as I am always skeptical of chypres), I am delighted to say that the current iteration smells just as good as the earliest one (and this seems to be the case with all other perfumes from the house). So, as opposed to my initial fears, hunting for a vintage is not mandatory. Oriza L. Legrand offers some exceptional perfumes, value-for-money-wise only rivaled by Parfum D’Empire at this time, and Chypre Mousse is undoubtedly their Tabac Tabou.

IG:@memory.of.scents

This grew on me. I love fragrances like Encre Noire, and figured this would be very dirty/soil-like. I was initially let down by what it wasn't, while still impressed with it's uniqueness. It smelled like a wealthy person's bathroom in the Victorian era. It still smells like that too me, but I've come to appreciate and love every part of this. It opens up with a bracing mint chewing tobacco smell, and smooths out into a posh soapy wild fennel note that takes the lead. This is definitely one to test for yourself. Nothing else smells similar. One thing I've learned along the way is that sometimes a fragrance that is immediately likeable is one that will get boring sooner. In the same way you can't really trust that you'll love a particular fragrance forever, you can't dismiss a challenging fragrance that you may not initially vibe with. Sometimes something that takes a while to understand is usually complex enough to stand the test of time, and becomes a love instead of a like.

I’ll just say for now that this is unlike any other chypre —heck, it’s unlike any other perfume— that I’ve ever put my nose to. I fell for it from the moment I sniffed a 2-ml decant from Luckyscent last September. By the end of the year, I’d gotten a full bottle and it’d become one of my fragrances of all time.

I’ll also say that it’s clearly not for everyone. But if you’re into realistic evocations of nature, and I mean ones that include undergrowth, mycelium, mulch, damp soil, decaying leaves, resinous terpenes, and all the rest, then this might just be up your street, too.

The overarching themes are oakmoss and mushrooms, but the star of the opening is a glorious fennel on a herbaceous bed of mint, angelica, and clary sage. Then for hours upon hours you get a lovely, smooth, earthy, and agrestic vibe that brings forth chestnuts and labdanum and vetiver, all subtended by the oakmoss and the mushrooms. It is an outstanding scent that somehow both remains airy throughout and also lasts forever.

This is what perfumery should be all about: at once an objet d’art and also, in equal measure, an effortlessly wearable delight. Love.

Fairy forest. I can't place what I'm smelling at first. It is sweet and delicate, but also smells like a green forest floor.

The style is so refined, like the harmonizing of an orchestra. High quality ingredients (mix of naturals and synthetics). I can't call this vintage, because the feeling I get is magical. I don't usually like to wear "cold" perfumes but this is so beautiful. The light aromatic quality would be refreshing in summer.

Alchymia. Perfumare. Magnum Opus.

Another very impressive note content and structure with an Oriza L. Legrand perfume!
Only this time, unlike “Horizon”, the end result is more well-rounded and harmonious.

Looking at the earlier reviews, I get a strong feeling that “Chypre Mousse” has been reformulated yet again in the last years. For - and on - me, “Chypre Mousse” remains true to its name as somewhat of a gourmand chypre – a bold and interesting intersection, granted. But too sweet and linear on my skin (much better on paper though). I just can’t get my nose out of the thick layers of syrupy marzipans and minty dark chocolates with this one. I so wish its medicinal and balsamic qualities were more pronounced and earlier so, too. I get a hint of them couple of hours later, but they are too pale, weak and disconnected from the other notes, so the effort is not worth the wait.

And again – a very natural feel to this perfume makes me hold “Chypre Mousse” in high regard. Since this is the second time I encounter both the natural vibe and a very complex note structure, I can only dream of the wonders the original “Chypre Mousse” (and “Horizon”) had to offer.

Overall, a very rich and classy gourmand scent and fairly priced too. Definitely worth checking out if you are into that genre and “Chypre Mousse” performs in a more balanced manner on you, without going too sweet. In fact, it is so good, that it almost converted me.

Oriza L. Legrand, Chypre Mousse (New):
Composition: 8/10
Complexity: 8/10
Development: 6.5/10
Naturality: 7/10

I can't give Chypre Mousse a bad rating as much as I want to. Chypre Mousse has nothing to do with its namesake evoking "Cyprus Moss," an early 20th to mid 20th Century concept pioneered by Coty of woods over sumptuous oakmoss.

The instant fragrance, to me, is a rip off of 70s/80s powerhouse fragrances such as Boss Number One and Givenchy Gentleman. If you enjoy those types of fragrances, then Chypre Mousse will surely be up your alley.