Clandestine
Guy Laroche (1986)

Watch the Jayne Kennedy Tab soda commercial on YT, do it, it's a hoot.

This is what Clandestine is like to me. Maximum shoulder-pad, angular, neon, stuffed to the gills with opulent, syrupy decadence. A big fat plum, juicy and tart pineapple, a vat of honey, a carnation crack of the whip, drenching fleshy, fecund flowers like tuberose and ylang-ylang. There's an overdose of heliotropin that collides with a civet-amber.

It is over the top, and it fascinates me.

Clandestine is an iconic piece of fragrance from the venerable french house of Guy Laroche. I approach this creation with huge respect and connected struggling memories about times in which my mum was a dynamic "cultural events-planner/organizer" women full of charme, measure and charisma. She used to organize cultural meetings and gala events in aristocratic locations and amazing bourgeois villes (rich of golden frames-pictures, valuable chandeliers, tapestries and silverwares). The general ambiences were filled by the aroma of super chic perfumes (exaling from "appalling" fur-covered and jeweled 70 years old heavily dressed up matrons) as the soapy floral Clandestine, a light charming fruity/floral/organic chypre in the middle of the milky way running from Caron Bellodgia to Paco Rabanne La Nuit, Rochas Femme, Lanvin Arpege and 1000 Patou. The general classic structure of this "creature" is soapy-musky, benzoinic and fruity-floral. I detect in the air a severely "military/ortodox" classicism a la Caron or Patou. An image of bold elegant charming woman on her 50's jumps ideally on mind with dazzling gleam. I get initially a particularly classic chypre "jasminey-aldehydic" twist (a la Caron Fleurs de Rocaille and vaguely N. 5 Chanel) supported by a more modern fruity-floral radiancy a la Jean Patou 1000 for women. Despite its glorious gorgeousness (classic and animalic) Clandestine appears by soon surprisingly wearable and light. In the opening I detect (for a few time) a touch of "sugary" heliotrope (with its confetto-twist) a la Farnesiana, L'Heure Bleue, Habanita or Tocade (supported by dusty-powdery iris and benzoin) but the effect is fleeting, immediately overwhelmed by opaque rosey soapiness, sharp/leafy florals (carnation), hesperides, soapy ylang-ylang and oakmoss rising from a more "neutral" background. I detect in particular the ylang-ylang's musky-soapy presence which is flanked by tuberose, rose/jasmine and carnation (overall representing the musky backbone of this glorious chypre). Aldehydes, musk, ylang-ylang and hesperides fix a super stiff/old-school soapy-musky structure which is definitely the main olfactory theme, something being furthermore twisted and enriched by a vaguely sugary-plummy-vanillic-tuberosey more "tasty" (benzoinic/fruty/floral), coloured and modern effect. Dry down is all about soapy-musky amber which is nuanced by exotic ylang-ylang, fruity tuberose, classic dry leafy florals and patchouli. Clandestine combines shadowy soapy opacity with a brighter fruity-floral exotic musky spark. I have to underline that the Clandestine's "radiant side" is something still "actual" and wearable. Another pillar of a left back gorgeous classicism which still performs amazingly on the right woman (beautiful, radiant, dynamic, fashinating, cultured and reassuring).

A lovely, rich fruity-floral - plum and jasmine mix divinely and intertwine for hours, at least with the pure parfum.

Worth seeking out on Ebay - no further info is available as to the notes involved or its history.

Sad - it's one of the very best fruity florals I've experienced - it has depth and longevity.

Clandestine is a peculiar sort of young and playful chypre, with naughty and dirty nuances made more "colourful" and light by a wild, teenish-irreverent soul. The structure itself is quite classic: the opening is fruity-plummy, suddenly darkening towards a warm floral-resinous accord with also benzoin, aldehydes, lavender, rose, carnation, herbs and the usual composition of chypres – just without leather (at least to me). The result is however more dry, metallic, "angular" if compared to more opulent chypres: to this extent, the bottle quite fits the scent. I appreciate the contrasts between the musky-dirty side and the flowers, it has a certain sensuality but as I said, somehow young, even "naif", like a young girl which wants to feel more mature and play the "lady" card. Carnal, but friendly and somehow fun too - I can't explain why I get this feeling, but as I said, this feels playful to me. I guess this may have to do with the era this went out – 1980's hedonism and the "discovery" of younger targets by brands and agencies, versus the mature, "vamp" lady of the '50s... I see why this chypre smells a bit different from the more classic and austere (or overly "sexy") ones. Finally a dark and long-lasting drydown. Not memorable to me, but nice.

7,5/10

Fruity (plum?) & rosy, w spice and a touch of musk. Rich & not dry, complex but smooth & rounded, nice flavor! reminds a little of Rochas Femme but rosy. Seems like a daytime scent.

I have over 183 bottles of perfumes, some are blah, some I keep for the bottle or a memory. I am not sure what it is about Clandestine I love so much. Reminds me of my childhood between Africa and Europe... My uncle introduced me to many perfumes as he worked in advertising and was constantly getting free bottles from the sponsors. Clandestine was one lucky acquisition. It is in fact as the name suggests. So secretive, deep, sophisticated, unravels but doesn't reveal too much. It is a perfume for a woman who commands presence yet isn't center stage. Not the bold blonde in the red dress to whom all the men are clamoring. It is more a provocative brunette perfume. one whose eyes speak both of melancholy and mischief. One who is both adventurous and a recluse. One who isn't easily approached, an other worldly woman. I love it.