Création
Ted Lapidus (1984)

I found a sample of Lapidus Création in a bag of samples, and put some on expecting the worst. Love it--my eyes opened wide. The problem is, I don't know if this sample is vintage, or current... Although I would tend to think recent, as I only get fleeting "tart" opening notes (currant and citrus?) rather than the mango and other fruits reviewers have described. For me, after a riveting opening that deserves one's full attention, the soapy, honeyed carnation is the star of the show. Création is so much itself, so full-fledged, that it reminds me of vintage Diva perfume by Ungaro (although that latter is more rose-dominant). Oddly, for the barely fruit-edged, iris-y carnation, it also reminds me of Cartier L'heure convoitée. Création is a diva, for sure. I have just ordered (for less than 15 euros) a bottle of the EdT, and will see whether it is like this, or vintage and better.

The addition of galbanum to the fruit cocktail that opens Creation is exhilarating to me, accentuating the tart, the bitter, the sour that comes naturally to mango, passionfruit, and cassis. This is what makes it stand out to my nose: it is mouthwatering, and tropical in feel. Do not expect this to be anything like a modern fruity floral, however. It's as if it's a progenitor to Calyx, but still rooted in a 70s chypre hang-over, sharp, crisp and radiant yellow florals forming its nucleus. Most conspicuous to me is the big, wet narcissus and thick ylang-ylang, underlined with a gardenia creaminess and encased in the fruity tang. It is like a supernova for the nose.

This one is LOUD, rock-n-roll loud, but I approve of it in that same take no prisoners sort of way as the iconic Miss Dior. Even as it wings its way in saturated, day-glo splendor, moss and musk funk it all up and it feels even more thrilling. It's all underlined green, nary a sweet spot can be detected by the nares. It is only in its last hours of presence on this skin that the tart, bitter, sour quenching power subsides to a dissolving dryness, beautifully subdued and feeling like powdery wood. This is quite a contrast to its preceding (and perfect) pungency, but it's a stimulating shift, one we so seldom get from modern releases that seek to pacify rather than penetrate. It must be experienced!

[Original version, not re-launch]

l had a beautiful splash bottle of this in the late eighties. l'm guessing it's been reformulated since, but back then it was a very classic chypre-oriental, with bergamot, warm florals, a bit of fruit & a wonderful drydown of amber, sandalwood, oakmoss & civet. l'm so glad l was around to smell this at it's best. A very grown-up, rich & refined perfume.

This Delectable blend of Peaches Mango
Citrus Gardenia and Woods make this perfume great of Summer. better then
to the simular scent of Sand and Sable
Perfect for wear your White Summer cotton Dress walking across the pure
White sand Clear Blue Waters Sweeping at your feet Starfishes and a gentile
warm breeze. sweeping through your hair. Beautiful perfume

I get a watery floral (ylang ylang and lily) with traces of an oakmoss and musk base. Either my bottle/sample went bad or the oakmoss has been reformulated out. My sample does have some greenish notes towards the bottom but not in an outlandish chypre way.

Either Ted Lapidus did not get the memo about oakmoss or I purchased a pre regulations bottle. Upon my first spray, I felt a flood of recognition of my old friends oakmoss and bergamot. This fragrance explores the minty aspect of bergamot and the salty aspect of oakmoss. It soars through the lovely top notes, but it fades into a juicy fruit gum sort of thing that dissappoints. It is only at the end of this pleasant adventure that the perfume smells cheap (which it is). Three cheers for the top notes and a big boo for the bottom notes.