Dianthus
Etro (2006)

A rather sour bergamot/patchouli chypre topped with plasticky hairspray aldehydes, leading to a peppery clove/carnation smell. I generally enjoy carnation perfumes, but the combination of molten plastic and the sour chypre notes are distracting. This is clearly Caron-inspired and I can't imagine reaching for this while the clearly superior Poivre or Nuit De Noel are still available.

I'm one who's never been seduced by dianthus/carnation - I think it's the spicy clove. And to me that's what stood out most about this fragrance. It was well-done, fresh, realistic, sparkling - I recognise its quality. I can't diss it for more than being what it is. Don't let my lack of appreciation of the carnation fragrance deter you from trying it, though. But FYI, that is what it is.

A very clovey carnation note dominates immediately upon application. I don't smell the citruses at all but the geranium comes through clearly along with the carnation. When I tested it again, I caught the red pepper note in the opening and the combination of carnation (clove) and red pepper is intriguing. It's quite a lively, enjoyable opening – bright, cheerful, sparkling, but it also presents some depth with the full tinge of aromatic, clovey, carnation. As the pepper note fades the fragrance gets a pleasant flowery feeling that reminds me that it is a feminine fragrance. Until now I questioned that. This middle accord is quite beautiful. The drydown that comes through for me is soft and musky… I detect a slight cedar note but mostly I get a comfortable musk that has a decent longevity.There are a couple of Etro fragrances I've loved but, for the most part, I've been neutral or only mildly impressed. Dianthus convinces me to perhaps reassess my attitude towards these Etros: I'm learning to appreciate the uniqueness and creativity of this label.

The lovely folks at Aedes sent me a sample of this along with some masculines I had requested. I have never been a fan of carnations, and would never have believed the could smell this good. The carnation/clove/orange accords are, for me, a new experience and I am enjoying it very much. Today in San Francisco we are having un-heard-of 94 degree weather and this fragrance could not be more perfect; it is a cool breeze stirring the leaves in a tree while I nap on a hammock. The clove (and a bit of leather?) also brink to mind the wonderful smell of an old book in a beautiful binding, making it almost masculine enough for me to wear ...

A brief dash of pepper lasts only a few seconds. Then a sweet, orangey carnation, blooms--and keeps blooming. This marriage of orange and carnation is warm and wonderful. The freshness of geranium and spiciness of clove provide coolness, but it is the orange which lifts this fragrance into the warmth and sun. Vanilla sweetens the whole and lends creaminess. Delicate, happy, lively fragrance. Carnation lovers, take note of this new 2006 fragrance. Those of you who think you do not like carnations, this one may win you over.