Elie Saab L'Homme
Eau de Parfum, Elie Saab (2025)

ELIE SAAB L’Homme Le Parfum is a decidedly contemporary refined fragrance, minimal and urban in style and imbued with an aura of mystery. It has been launched in 2025 and crafted by perfumer Pierre-Constantin Guéros, featuring a blend of freshly citric-spicy and woody notes. It embodies the spirit of a refined and mysterious modern man in one of the many cities of luxury and crystals. It is a sophisticated woody fragrance with the essential oil of two types of vetiver as its dominant note (Haitian vetiver, more exotic, subtle, clean and linear, and Madagascar vetiver with darker, earthier-smokier, woodier more rugged character). It also reveals "strong" notes of cedar and patchouli, dry and powdery spicy notes and a tart and juicy opening bergamot. The fresh and fiery opening of bergamot and pink pepper contrasts with the powerful heart of vetiver, warmed by base notes of cedarwood and patchouli (slightly soothed by hints of smoky myrrh), which leave a unique and persistent trail. Dry down unveils a barely perceptible note of leather on my skin. It is a chiaroscuro fragrance but I would speak of a transition from light to shadow and not vice versa because the initial bergamot is fresh and almost luminous while it is the subsequent touch of black pepper that then determines the transition towards the darkness of the essential oils of precious woods and vetiver. The final myrrh, masterfully calibrated in minimal doses, supported by other synthetic molecules with silky tones and bringing a slightly smoky touch (which together with the woods and black pepper contributes to increasing the widespread shadowy tone of the dry down) creates a slightly more velvety final consistency with nuances of leather and silk while the vibe remains woody and boisé. Obviously, the combination of notes widely used in men's perfumery (in particular) such as bergamot, black pepper and essential oils of cedar, vetiver and patchouli make the fragrance somewhat generic. However, it must be said that the way they are blended into a muted, slightly metallic yet powdery, urban and mysterious finish with mild velvety nuances (vaguely reminding me of the 2024 Le Sel d’Issey by Issey Miyake or the 2023 Brunello Cucinelli Pour Homme but also the 1997 Lanvin L'Homme, more for the vibe than for the smell itself) makes the fragrance extremely interesting, elegant and almost special. ELIE SAAB L’Homme Le Parfum is an extremely versatile fragrance that can give its best both during the day (work, leisure) and in a romantic and intimate evening setting (a romantic dinner, a stroll through the old city in sweet company). The longevity is good and the sillage is more than discreet on my skin. The bottle's cap has a subtle leather-like texture and a monogram detail, adding a refined touch to the overall appearance.