Enigme
Pierre Cardin (1992)

While this is clearly a delineation of 80s woody, spicy powerhouses that combine both chypre and fougere elements, Enigme is a forgotten gem that seems to find all the telltale components elevated to a rapturous level. A spicy, aromatic opening? But of course. A heart of rugged, yet quenching florals, including carnation and geranium? Naturally. Oakmoss? We've got that and plenty of it, along with all the labdanum, the musk, and just about anything firm, bold, and fixative in the dry down.

"But how does Enigme stand out?" you might ask. Perfumer Alberto Morillas has sheered out these elements expertly, in a way that would make sense if there were successful progressions to this style, as this was released in 1992, a turning point in fragrance history where this wasn't exactly the direction, as clean, aquatic, bright, and fruity was de rigueur by this time (think Kenzo Pour Homme, Cool Water, Minotaure). Enigme was far too dense and therefore was deemed archaic, which is a shame, as it could've been wildly successful had the love affair with calone and dihydromyrcenol had not yet taken center stage. This was ten years after Drakkar Noir, so there was plenty of time to improve upon this style. I personally find this far more satisfying of a wear, with no rough edges, and more compelling as it sings with a bit more gusto and clarity (while still carrying that brazen edge). I compare it with a similar out-of-step release Montana Parfum d'Homme in that both exceeded their forebears but were a little late in their arrival. Therefore, both are ripe for rediscovery at a time where we are revisiting with enthusiasm these beefy aromatic juggernauts.

Also, it goes without saying that the bottle is one of my favorites of all that are in my collection.

I've bought this fragrance in France for a few years. I must say it's horrible !