Givrine
E. Coudray (1950)

E. Coudray Givrine is a graceful musky floral with a final ordinary fruity soapiness with traces of powder. The scent, before unfolding in a really few time its musky soapiness, opens with a promising aldehydic accord of watery flowers, violet leaves, watermelon (may be red berries) and musk. The violet leaves-watermelon-lily of the valley accord is dominant (and ostensibly berrish) and It seems to detect a touch of cardamom combined with "liquid"-dusty frankincense and woods in a way to provide a sort of woodsy fluidity associated with the upcoming "cosmetical" soapy-floral vibe (in a way conjuring me more than vaguely the same vibe I've felt in the discontinued Armani Onde Mystere). I find this fragrance kind of romantic, subtle and dreamy but the general texture is not so articulated and stable (with its final little collapse towards a pale linearity) to make it deserving a full thumbs up. If you are looking for such a type of graceful (violet leaves veined) classic floral chypre I suggest the great Floris Royal Arms Diamond Edition.

Givrine opens with a graceful and lively accord of aldehydes, soapy/talcum notes, lavender, other flowers (I thought of gardenia, I read there's also peony and lily), perhaps ylang and a base accord of sandalwood, vanillin and light green-fruity-citrus notes. Pretty much it, a classic floral composition "à la Provençale", not that natural but rather on the classic French style, so with a round, slightly metallic aldehydes side, still elegant and refined, although a bit dull. However it manages to stay fresh, lively, aerial, silky and soapy, developing a slightly creamy and light powdery side while remanining bright and breezy. Pleasant, understated but well-made. A cozy late-summer afternoon in a country garden.

7/10