Interlude Black Iris Man
Amouage (2020)

Amouage has done it again with this third Interlude. My wallet cannot take much more! So, what have we got here compared to the original and 53? Well, it's very obviously Interlude Man but a successful attempt at beautifying it, or, thinking of this trio as a trilogy of movies or books, closing out the story. I liken 53 to an apocalyptic forest fire of resinous trees. It's all smoke, heat, rage, and white-hot sharp edges. Black Iris is after the fire has gone out and the forest begins rebuilding. The smoke and resinous notes are still obviously there, but it lacks the heat and sharp edges. A spring rain has come to quench the charred earth and now we have flowers and trees rising up from the ashes to rebuild the landscape. The violet leaf, orris, and vanilla play critical roles in this flanker, and they are allowed to do a lot of work without taking full center stage most of the time. Since this perfume is called Black Iris, you can correctly assume that the orris is the star, and it is: the cold, starchy, floral orris removes a lot of the heat and "danger" from the original DNA of Interlude. But, the way Black Iris plays out is interesting because at certain moments it's almost indistinguishable from either Interlude or 53, and at other moments those three accords become quite prominent and the difference from the original and 53 becomes very clear. On the final dry down, the vanillic amber, patchouli, and woods are most prominent; the forest has regrown after the fire. This is probably the most disappointing part of the perfume, though these three ingredients are of excellent quality and composition, surely there must be a better and more creative way to convey a feeling of safety and "conclusion". The ending of the story is a bit cliched. However, Pierre Negrin has done a masterful job of taking his original composition and letting the story evolve in new and different ways. Amouage and Negrin have executed one of the things they do best: create a perfume that has free reign to speak, think, feel, and evolve, just like a person. It's in those moments that I've fallen in love with Black Iris in a different way than the other two Interludes. Black Iris is the calm after the storm, the interlude (if you will) between the chaos and the clean blank slate from which a new landscape forms.

Never thought I would describe any version of Interlude as gorgeous!! But here we are.

I respect the original. So unique & interesting. But I just found it almost unwearable. With the inclusion of iris, it completely changes the demographics. Some would still consider it slightly challenging, but it comes across as more classy and elegant.

Longevity is still off the charts. I have a carded sample at home from when I first sampled it. That was 3 weeks ago and still smells as if it was sprayed this morning.

Very impressive!

As other reviews have noted, Interlude Black Iris seems to be an attempt at dialing down the original Interlude Man and making it any easier wearing scent. To my nose, the opening is not as jarring as with the original and the dry down is similar, but perhaps a more blended version of incense and leather. The Iris (Orris) is present and smooths the overall fragrance out without being prominent or detracting from the original. I personally like Black Iris better, but I'm sure many would prefer the original. No reason to own both IMO.

The opening is certainly attention grabbing; sweet, exotic, a little flowery, but smooth. The dry down smells classy, complex, elegant, expensive. At times a touch syrupy and cloying, but that's fleeting. Overall it's not understated, a distinctive type of perfume people would comment on and recognise if they knew it. A small amount of this for the office or a formal party would be ideal. I wouldn't use this as day-wear, it's far too expensive for starters.

Has a hit of orris/iris at the beginning that mellows the Interlude DNA a bit and lends a barbershop air, but it goes away fast and leaves Interlude Man but slightly more leathery and a hint less dark tar wood. I like it, but I like Interlude Man more as the leathery barbershop aspects here make it lean more masculine than the original. This would be fabulous on a man, but I need less barbershop in my scent. Not that I'm throwing the sample away or anything: I'll wear it out around the house.

Familiar, challenging opening that continues on for hours followed by a sexy, sweet drydown that forgives any disagreements you had with the original Interlude Man.

The same dark, smokey, leathery, earthy experience of the original Interlude Man is present during the opening but there's also an iris note. After the opening fades a little, I get a minty scent that starts to develop. Even further into the development, I start to smell some warm vanilla and nutty sweetness. This continues on and eventually becomes the main notes, supported by the dark, earthiness that calls back to the original. It's that combo that gives you this refined, unique sexiness.

For me, the opening is still a bit challenging, albeit better than the original, and lasts too long but the drydown, once you finally get there, is very good.

Performance is outstanding, with very good projection and. All-day longevity.