Ipazia
Cerchi nell'Acqua (2012)

Ipazia is a pleasant "exercise" of rebuilding a fairy conventional floral-woody chypre with a modern taste. The opening shows nuances of aldehydes, a camphor note of benzoin, oak moss (unexpectedly thick and rich), neroli, herbal-balsamic notes, and a subtle hint of leather. A light breeze of flowers, mostly rose, provides a clever and lively powdery feeling which blends and contrasts with the overall chypre-sque "darkness". It reminded me a bit of Eau de Givenchy among others, as it has no animalic or carnal notes - so it's not a "bitchy" dirty chypre - but it's rather played on flowers, citrus notes, aldehydes, benzoin and woody-mossy notes, with a bold balsamic feel all over. The mood is quite radiant overall, still somehow austere and sophisticated, but on the bright side. Not that original, though (Eau de Givenchy is just the first among many references), and perhaps just a little bit boring after a while... but well made for sure, pleasant, persistent and dense, and most of all modern enough to smell just like a "tribute" of woody chypres (and not a boring "rip-off"). This is one of those – good – scents that may appeal more to "non-fans" of perfumes, while many "aficionados" (like myself) may consider this a bit derivative.

7/10

The standout Ipazia's accord is a fruity-citric (basically lemony) amber floral "agreement" in which the typical balmy lemonade/floral-nectar yellow vibe is aroused by the interaction of mimosa viscous pollen, lemon and amber-benzoin. The rose (heady on the mimose side in the initial stage) provides a touch of soapiness while the note of tuberose (rising up gradually in order to become finally mastering) elicits a sort of sticky-resinous, highly spicy and almost chewing gum-like type of undertone. Frankly the opening (sparkling, floral, balmy, fluidy ambery) is more promising than the following evolution appearing vaguely candied and almost gummy-juicy in temperament. The muskiness grows up slowly along the trip subsiding the candied vibe and improving the final trail with a touch of smooth boise soapiness. While I unconditionally appreciate the Enrico Buccella's general work of olfactory research have to say Ipazia is at moment the Cerchi nell'Acqua's one which impressed me less.