Kéora
Eau de Toilette, Jean Couturier (1983)

It is true that Kéora's lineage can be traced back to the iconic ambers such as Shalimar, Emeraude, even Tabu, but what Keora shifts forward, among considerable benzoin and assortment of spices, are ample yellow flowers. Mimosa and Ylang-Ylang color it a warmer, brighter hue, their radiance reaching through its dusky richness.

A column of woodiness strikes through Keora and the savory ripeness of animal notes, including an ambergris accord, just touch the surface, contrasting with its resinous sweetness. It seems to have gotten lost in the swarm of resurgent ambers released in the late 70s and early 80s, but is so deserving of merit for its diversion from its time-tested template. It's lovely.

First released by Jean Couturier, and specifically his Grasse-trained wife Jacqueline Couturier, in 1983, Keora came in a beautiful oval bottle with a sculptural glass top in the form of a nesting bird. Keora is a great India-inspired amber oriental with significant vanilla, leather, lots of flowers, and abundant spices ranging from nutmeg to ginger to saffron and pepper. Mimosa is quite present in Keora, as in Le Galion Sortilège; I would suggest that these two have some of the truer mimosa notes out there. There is, in my experience, a BIG difference between more recent, spray-format reformulations of Keora, which may lack richness and spice, and the old versions. Among the old versions, which I believe are all splash, sometimes the lid is a PLASTIC bird. Tacky, but the juice is still awesome, just like what I remember from the glass-lid bottles. A bit of a happy medium between Opium and le Must de Cartier, but also 100% itself. It is powerful yet wearable, with its symphony of diverse notes, and almost a faint premonition of later gourmand scents.

This is a real insider tip and worth tracking down. A handsome flacon, similar to the art decco Patou pour Homme flacon.
The juice itself - a rich smooth vanilla oriental. Quite spicy, with the merest hint of sweet pink bubblegum. Goes in the direction of Shalimar.