Lôence
Santi Burgas (2015)

It opens with a big, natural blast of patchouli and a nice blend of frankincense, cedar and some juniper. As it dries, the patchouli takes a bit more of a backseat to the sweet frankincense and "woods." This is nothing super complex, however it was exactly what I was looking for. It is awesome for what it is and I now happily have it in my collection.

Frankly, i don't get anything but patchouli and a very loud annoyingly monotone synthetic wood note. Don't know what it is, but even if it's an intentional overdose, it's an overdosed overdose.

Unwearable for me.

Loence is the base for all the fragrances in the Santi Burga's Loant Collection. Stating to the brand's website, it can be used as a standalone or as a layering base to mix with other compositions from the aforementioned range. I opted for the stand-alone option and there you go...

A blast of dry, camphorous and almost minty patchouli joined by loads of cashmeran and incense. There's some of the aromatic quality of the juniper but for the most part, it's all about patch, incense and synth woods. If you like dry stuff, it smells nice but I don't see any particular twist to make it properly stand out. As simple as it sounds and with a sort of mainstream-ish texture. Not much to add.

Loence opens with a relatively transparent sharp, fresh quick blast of juniper with a slight aromatic patchouli undertone. Moving to its early heart the aromatic patchouli takes control, now joined by radiant frankincense rising from the base. During the late dry-down the composition gradually jettisons the patchouli, leaving the frankincense to meld with a natural smelling woody supporting accord through the finish. Projection is on the low side of average, but longevity is excellent at around 12 hours on skin.

There really is nothing much to say about Loence except it is a major disappointment. The key heart accord that pairs aromatic patchouli with radiant frankincense conveys an aroma not unlike generic bathroom cleaner or even, dare I say, bug spray. The late dry-down is much more enticing as the frankincense drops the patchouli, instead paring with a natural smelling woody undertone that works much better as support, but by this time it is just too late to salvage the composition, sadly. In short, maybe Loence would work wonders fumigating a room, but as a perfume one would want to wear I would have to say it is a failure. The bottom line is the 119 Euro per 50ml bottle Loence may have some use in the world, but in my mind it isn't as a perfume to be worn on skin, earning it a "poor" 1.5 to 2 stars out of 5 rating and a significant avoid recommendation.

I have nothing to add to Darvant's resonant review except to say that it resonated all the way from Span to my doorstep. I am wearing Loence and find it deeply satisfying, like two other frankincense fragrances I own. Wearing it is like an invitation to prayer.

Thank you, Darvant, for your enthusiasm and clarity of perception. Thanks to you, I own the full sampler.

What expectations does one have prior to trying a perfume that's been deemed the 'flagship' item of the perfume house, is limited edition and most importantly,a hefty price tag?

Needless to say, expectations are naturally going to be high.
This is the flagship perfume, it's priced like perfumes from other established perfumers & perfume houses. Oh and a fancy wooden cap.

To succinctly put it, Loence is a diet Sahara Noir with a teeny bit of juniper berries & wood accord(cedar wood dominated).
Projection was good till it abruptly died prematurely.

Quality of Omani frankincense is excellent, then again it's not a particularly ingredient. We buy it by the kilogram here in the gulf. Nonetheless, excellent quality.
It is completely void, though, of Somali & Indian incense. Maybe it's physically there, but the Omani frankincense envelops them in totality.

I was so underwhelmed that I chose to wear something from my wardrobe the next day, instead of trying the other 7 samples I bought.
I mean, if the limited edition flagship was so underwhelming, what is one to expect from the regular line? I'll eventually get round to trying them, but I'm not in a hurry.

Further to this, why make such a simple composition the flagship?
Considering that Tom Ford just recently swept the market with his reference frankincense Sahara Noir.
I'd have delayed Loence or not deemed it the limited edition flagship perfume.

An emerging perfume house employing established perfume house prices in mediocre scents.

Hopefully the other perfumes in the line redeem Loence.