Lustre
Eau de Parfum, Amouage (2024)

Lustre is thicker and more cloying than Reasons. You’d wear Reasons for casual spring days or cooler summer evenings, while Lustre feels more suited for intimate settings or slightly cooler seasons—but still nowhere near as strong as Outlands.

Overall, this is a spicy amber scent with a somewhat synthetic mix of woods and tonka bean in the background. The spices remind me a bit of cinnamon, though it’s not listed as a note—and it’s nothing like Oajan or Ambre Narguile. Those come across as polished, refined, and elegant, while Lustre feels rougher and less cohesive. The supposed myrrh and benzoin don’t really shine here, nor do they make much of an impression. Instead, there’s a cloying, synthetic spiciness dominating the composition—persistent, loud, and not particularly pleasant.

There is a hint of smoothness underneath, maybe from orris or patchouli trying to add some weight and depth, but it’s overpowered by that harsh, buzzing spice that never seems to settle. It sits relatively close to the skin, but longevity is decent. Still, for $650 CAD, it’s a firm thumbs down. Lustre has truly lost its lustre. My nose actually feels relieved when I smell Reasons afterward—Lustre is just an intrusive, spicy mess. Seems like Amouage is just releasing frags just for the sake of it or to remain relevant. They should discontinue scents like these instead of Figment or Myths Man.

I'm not sure I understand the name Lustre because - if anything - this perfume does not give the impression of the radiance of some elegant material, or light bouncing from a surface. It's quite heavy, complex, and a bit thick and sweet as well. In the perfume's opening the cardamom and orris choreograph a lovely dance of spicy yet powdery floral accords. As the dry down continues the strength of the perfume swells into a bigger and bigger force of nature, but it does so in a way that is almost unnoticeable until it's too late. Within a couple hours the woods, vanilla, patchouli, and myrrh are rising fast and strong into the air around you. It gives a distinct incense impression, but give it a few more seconds thought and you realize that it is actually a bit sweet and a bit earthy (the vanilla, tonka and patchouli doing their thing). I don't know what to do with this perfume; it is not saying anything new, and it doesn't fit the brief. If anything, it's dated and very safe. Every ingredient is top tier quality; the evolution is captivating, with each phase feeling completely seamless and natural; the performance is incredible; the composition is coherent. Luster, it does not. Magnetize and compel, it does not. Familiar, safety, and boredom, it does.