Marbert Homme
Marbert (1988)

Launched in the late 1980's by the German house Marbert, Marbert Homme, in its kind of mossy-leathery moody (kind of woodsy and obscurely boisé a la Cartier Santos 1981) and severe (though finally mild and well rounded) vest, reflects a period when men’s fragrances used to focus on virile power, emphasizing confidence and assertive masculinity. Definitely this fragrance is widely regarded as a son of its era (bold personalities, optimism, rampant families, hand tailored night gala suits, great enterprises), a time when fragrances were designed to project authority and gentlemanly virility. Marbert Homme is still today relevant and appreciated by enthusiasts of classic 80's perfumery and traditional barbershop-inspired scents. The fougére structure or several mossy spicy master creations (immensely popular aromatic fougére a la Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir 1982 or mossy spicy creations a la Cartier Santos 1981) used to master the scenes back in that time. On this context (and waving in the middle between an aromatic fougére structure and a deeper mossy spicy charismatic aplomb a la Jacques Bogart One Man Show 1980) Marbert Homme settles leisurely within that tradition, offering a reliable, solid and distinctly authoritative scent profile. Marbert Homme is a classic uncompromisingly masculine fragrance launched in 1988 by the German house Marbert. Marbert Homme definitely belongs to the aromatic fougére family due a traditional masculine structure built on lavender, herbs, oakmoss and woody notes but it definitely unveils as well mossy spicy traits and a well rounded leathery mossy slightly vanillic (milder) dry down turning it finally kind of subtle and discreet though still mossy and spicy. Very “classic gentleman” in character it draws inspiration by several iconic fougéres of the era which with it shares the bold aromatic opening, a mossy depth and a strong masculine distinguished presence, though Marbert Homme is often described as slightly smoother/milder and more understated. The fragrance opens with a fresh and slightly sharp burst of bergamot-lavender and green herbal notes, giving it a clean and barbershop-style introduction. In the heart you find spices (such as cinnamon and clove), floral nuances, and woody tones, which add warmth and complexity. The base is rich and long-lasting, composed of oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, amber and musk, creating a dry, masculine, slightly mossy trail typical of classic mossy fougéres. Still today perfect for business-formal settings or evening wear this big fragrance is epitome of classic masculinity and respect for barber-shop tradition though with a tad of well rounded spicy-soapy mildness. Performance (either longevity and projection) is on the average for an old-school eau de toilette.

Marbert Homme by Marbert (1988) comes out of the built-in sprayer with a big "whoa" and then just continues to impress. It pains me to think this house was once in the same lock-step with Jacques Bogart before moving into obscurity, pumping out prize fighter after prize fighter full of charm and vigor for not too much coin, especially in the men's aisle. Marbert Homme was yet another sucker punch to the jaw following Marbert Gentleman by Marbert (1986) just two years earlier, and Toro by Marbert (1980) at the decade's beginning, after passing the Balenciaga fragrance license on to the aforementioned Bogart on the heels of their own final effort of Balenciaga Portos (1980). Marbert didn't even try to hide the fact that Portos was an alternate formula for Marbert Man by Marbert (1977), and had the same relative border shape and color surround the "Portos" logo as Marbert Man itself. By then they were just maximizing return on investment and dump dead weight.

In a similar way, Marbert (who was financially struggling at the time) looked to higher-end designers for much of its inspiration with Gentleman being a shade of both Boss by Hugo Boss (1985) and Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent (1981) before it. With Homme, the target was getting in the neighborhood of things like Santos de Cartier (1981), Calvin by Calvin Klein (1981), and One Man Show by Jacques Bogart (1980). To that end, this is a big spicy mossy amber and leather chypre fragrance, with lime and galbanum up front, carnation in the heart mixed with sage, coriander, and jasmine, plus a huge slug of castoreum coated in oakmoss, amber, sandalwood, and patchouli. Toss in a little fruit and you'd end up with Maxim's pour Homme (1988), which could very well be a mod from the same brief. Marbert Homme doesn't have the biggest projection past the first hour, but it has sustain for eternity, and is so much smoother than many of its higher-profile brethren.

For people who think the castoreum and herbed baseball bat to the head that is One Man Show is just too much, if you don't mind subbing in more oakmoss and spice, Marbert Homme may be right for you. much like Enrico Coveri pour Homme (1988), it also seems to refine the formula Calvin by Calvin Klein introduced, by finessing some of the oriental amber elements that made Santos memorable into the mix, while tossing in some of the green leather that had been making the rounds not just by One Man Show, but by things like Dior Jules (1980) at the end of the previous decade. Of course, Marbert wasn't that big of a deal anymore outside it's home turf of Germany, and with much cleaner scent profiles sweeping through by the end of the 80's, it was washed away like so many other late-stage powerhouses. Leather, patchouli, and oakmoss basically define 80's powerhouses, so there's no new ground here; but it is done oh-so-well. Thumbs up

This perfume, Marbert Homme, is a winner. To me, it's a subtle one in the same way I experience Cartier Santos. It seems to become a skin scent fairly quickly, and then it smells super agreeable in the faint, deep base. Faint, but heavenly. A bit like a faint, dressy Old Spice.

This has a super confident smell, the way I perceive it. I couldn't take it very seriously if someone told me they didn't like it. It smells just right to me. I don't think I'm going to hunt down a bottle because I already have so much perfume and most of it I like just as much as this, but otherwise, this is something I would like to have and wear on a regular basis.

If you like One Man Show , then you will like this ... Its similiar but different enough to own both & if you like numbers in your rotation or a slightly different but just as impressive aura as OMS then hunt this one down .... A big thumbs up from me .. cheers

Picked this up at a ridiculously low cost and was pleased... Aromatic and powerful, but less of an old men's scent than Marbert Man, this one being darker, leaning towards a more Oriental and Gothic side, with several notes so strong and oily almost on the verge of being unbearable. However, applied sparingly ( cause even two drops of it can almost outlast a day and be felt from a long distance), the smell surprises with musky sweetness and rich, deep woody notes. Long and almost difficult dry-down, but bearing unexpected delights after a firstly almost painful encounter with harsh, heavy and stuffy notes.