N°19
Eau de Parfum, Chanel (1971)

Today I get play one of my favorite games: a multi format vintage vs. new comparison. The beautiful lady walking arm-in-arm with me today is none other than No. 19. On the back of my left hand and that wrist is an EdC from probably the late 1970s/early 80s, on the upper part of that arm is a new EdP, and on my right hand and arm is an extrait from the early 1990s. Sometimes I feel like the luckiest guy in the world. Curiously, No. 19 doesn't get much love, in fact it seems to get quite a bit of hate. I've heard some people say that if No. 19 was a woman, she would be a frigid "b" with no friends. Though I understand what they're saying, I think that's overly harsh and a classic case of being misunderstood. To me this character is more prim and proper rather than cold and mean; it's the difference between us loud and brash Americans versus British royalty, let's say: just because the Brit royalty is typical stiff-upper-lip and very proper doesn't make them cold and mean. This difference of character perception can also be seen across the formats and vintages I'm wearing today. Take my very old EdC vs. the new EdP as an example: though age has most assuredly tempered Ms. 19 in the EdC format, that hyper green claw-like galbanum top note is far smoother and well-rounded in the EdC than the EdP. The EdP is claws out, right from the get-go, and, as you would expect, those claws stay out for longer. Rather quickly, the EdC dries down to a very pleasant and soft powdery woody floral chock full of iris, lily, sandalwood, and oakmoss (real oakmoss - have I mentioned how much I love opportunities to smell real oakmoss?) - making this the easiest of the No. 19s to wear, and that's really the whole story of the EdC beyond this point. The EdC is desperately pretty, calm, and friendly after the last dry down and for the few hours beyond. After about an hour after application, the EdP's claws are still out but they've been filed down, and it's definitely more apparent that the use of synthetics is more prominent in this new EdP versus the old EdC. This is as you would expect, but I must emphasize that the "synthetic" quality of the EdP is more than you would expect. Now, I have a different frame of reference here because I'm smelling a very old EdC side-by-side with the new EdP, so don't take my comments to mean that the new EdP has an offputting fake quality to it, because it still smells amazing; if you don't have an old formulation to compare it to, you are likely not going to notice the synthetics much. The filed-down claws of the EdP that I mentioned are no longer in the form of a sharp green galbanum, but vivid, saturated, thorny florals. The EdP is all about the heart notes of rose, a rooty iris, jasmine, lily, and ylang ylang - but, again, be careful when you go in for a sniff or you reach your hand into that bouquet because there are thorns there. These aren't gentle florals by any means; they aren't going to actively scratch you, but they are fully capable of defending themselves if needed. Ms. 19 is no longer in fight-or-flight mode, but she still has her guard up. Those ylang-ylang and jasmine notes in the EdP are a tour de force team, all vivid and saturated colors of white, green, and yellow.

But what about the extrait?! Yes, I know you want to know what the extrait is doing. Frankly, I'm at a loss for words with the extrait, but I shall try. It is just so, so, so good. Absolutely stunning. The extrait opened with the same hyper green galbanum note of the others - the EdP more specifically - but the galbanum is not claws-out like it is in the EdP. There are no claws here. The galbanum's personality is softened and gentrified by some of the most beautiful jasmine, iris, ylang-ylang and rose notes you will ever smell. Every note of the EdP (and EdC for that matter) are presented and accounted for in the extrait, but if I were to rate the materials/accords on realism, quality, and execution, the extrait would be 10 out of 10 while the EdP and EdC make do at 6. I love the EdC and the EdP, so this should hopefully place in understandable context just how good I think the extrait is. While the EdC and the EdP are playing around, drying down and doing there thing, at nearly three hours in the extrait is only just warming up. Remember what I said about No. 19 being prim and proper and not cold and mean? Picture then a beautiful, regal, proud and strong woman in the finest handmade dress and you have the extrait. Monica Belucci in Valentino, basically; the extrait smells the way she looks. It will be a couple hours more even at this point before the extrait begins moving, after the EdC and the EdP have mostly worn themselves out. One curiosity to definitely note, and it should also be mentioned it's quite a hot day here in my part of California, the bergamot and neroli of the extrait have a far greater voice on the blotter than they do on my skin. The same could be said for the EdP as well, but the voices of the bergamot and neroli of the extrait are still greater than that of EdP's.

We're going to fast forward to the end of the day, many hours later. The EdC is long gone, the EdP is a very pleasant skin scent of soft sandalwoods and much more pronounced notes of vetiver and animalic musks than the EdC. And the extrait... it's still there. While I'm worn out from an afternoon of running around, this lovely lady on my arm is still there, energized, and ready for an evening soiree. The galbanum and florals are gone, but the vetiver, woods, and mosses are still going. Partly why the extrait is my favorite of the No. 19 formats is because Chanel have made it act like a proper extrait should. While the EdC and EdP tire themselves out in hours, launching themselves into the air and drying-down like they're in a race (a bit exaggerated, but you get my point), the extrait stays close to you. Very close. Insanely powerful, but close. That measured approach to its energy and output, like a real extrait in the classical style should be, is exemplary to the personality I find in Ms. No. 19. She's not cold and mean, she's elegant, proud, strong, and confident - with you for the long haul, so to speak. Those are my favorite kinds of people. And that's why No. 19 is very likely my favorite Chanel perfume.

I don't know if my nose has changed or Chanel no. 19 has, but it finally fits me. I love powdery green aldehydic fragrances like Climat and Chamade. Chanel no. 19 never quite worked for me because the leather and oakmoss notes in the EDT were too dry, far too cold, abstract, and unyealding for me. The EDP as far back as 10-20 years ago was less austere and dry, but also sort of watery. I craved that aldehydic crunchy, powdery snow-like affect that no. 5 and no. 22 give off by the shovelful.

I recently came back to the Chanel boutique and tried on the Chanel no. 19 edp, and came back later to buy my very first bottle after decades of admiring it from a distance. Now I'm getting piles and piles of snowy powdery aldehydes with loads of galbanum. Early spring greens coming up through mountains of fresh snow. An earthy woody note gives a warmth that doesn't mix with the rest of the composition as much as it sits below it, offering a dark mulchy contrast to highlight its icy greenness, and a hint of leather puts it back on the high street with high heels and luxury handbags.

This is the Chanel for me this summer. It cuts right through the heat, but remains the epitome of sophistication and classic French perfumery. In fact I bought this not long after the great François Hardy had her final transition this summer, and I was inspired by her cool, chic, aloof, but utterly relatable and human qualities when I went out to seek a new perfume. I don't know what she wore, but I would easily believe it if someone told me Chanel no. 19 was among her favorites.

"The Outspoken Chanel". Straight from Tokyo vintage No.19 parfum comes to me, and she is fine. Lots of powder, galbanum, rose, moss and leather with none of the soap that, I find, makes No.5 too challenging. Younger, more relaxed and carefree than other Chanel perfumes, this was Coco Chanel's last fragrance she was directly involved with, and it is her best. This is a floral heavy chypre, meaning this is most certainly not unisex at all. Strictly for the ladies and girly boys like me!

I am writing this review without ever experiencing the vintage original. And my first experience with 19 was the poudre version, also modern formulation.

At first, I couldn’t really detect a huge difference between this and Poudre. I actually had to spray them each on their own arm to smell the differences. And while I do think they definitely have similarities, there are distinct differences between them.

I do think the opening is similar, too similar for my enthusiastic novice nose to detect any noteworthy differences. But as they start to dry down, I do notice that Poudre really jumps into that soft irisy powder. The Iris is the star of the show. While 19 still has Iris, it fervently holds on to that little bit of greenery from the opening, as well as allowing some other soft florals to come forward. Here, the Iris while still present and noticeable, is a little bit more like a supporting character. These two fragrances, in my mind are definitely sisters, impossibly beautiful sisters. You think you are in the presence of the prettier one, until you put the other one on. Both absolute winners in my eye for truly remarkable fragrance. Both leave me wanting more when the scent eventually fades.

One thing I don’t really get… and maybe it’s because green fragrances really haven’t been considered “in style” in my lifetime… is the almost constant references to this being cold and bitchy. To me it is not. I get beauty, intelligence, confidence, and timeless sophistication. And that’s really with both 19 edp and Poudre as well.

I don’t think anyone ever made a perfume more perfect for daytime wear than No. 19.

Despite its reputation as a cold, austere, and bitchy scent, I actually find No. 19 quite undemanding, even in its vintage iterations, but maybe that's simply the case with fragrances we love. I find myself gravitating toward it on weekends, when just relaxing, housecleaning, or running errands. It’s my go-to fragrance for casual and unfussy days.

It’s also somewhat seasonless, as the extrait has enough heft to work in winter. I wear and love No. 19 year-round.

I also find that compared to many other green florals, No. 19 stays quite ‘green’ quite deep into the drydown. Because of this I consider it the ‘queen of green’, and it’s a top favorite in the green category. I know galbanum is a top note, so am unsure if the lasting green effect here is perhaps an illusion, caused by its marriage and blending with other notes.

In any case, I consider No. 19 both a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, and hope to never be without it.

This review is based on the vintage extrait and EDT.

The world is changed.

Much that once was is lost, for none now live who remember it.

Thousands of years from now, a Gandalf-like perfumer combs dusty archives, looking for clues. Looking for answers. What were these great works of art like before we changed them? Before we lost them?

Chanel No. 19 is the best fragrance ever created. There's nothing better. I wish everyone could have the same experience I did: I was fourteen or so, having fun in a cosmetics store, smelling different perfumes and suddenly-- there it was. Heaven. Perfection. Clear and simple and exponentially better than anything else.

I hadn't read a thing about it, and I only discovered years later that Chanel No. 19 is considered to be a "bitchy" or cold perfume to be worn by heartless cold bitches. This is not true. Don't believe those reviews. Those are words written by damned souls.

It's easy to hate something because it's beautiful. I can forgive this kind of jealousy; it's so transparent.

Harder for me to forgive are the changes to Chanel No. 19 itself.

No, stop. I don't want this review to be yet another ode to the past, another "back in my day" whine, a howl about how the band is much better live and how you kids will just never know what you missed. More and more that kind of review disappoints me. Because things change. The world changes. Perfumes change too. I'm getting older, you're getting older, there is no Santa Claus and the cup of coffee you just drank is *much* closer to your last cup of coffee than it is to your first.

Still. It's hard for me not to cry about this one. It is my precious and I do collect it to somewhat ruinous effect.