No. 22
Eau de Parfum, Chanel (2016)

Gorgeous. No. 22 doesn't get nearly enough praise or attention since No. 5 is the Chanel people constantly fawn over. Aldehydic, just like it's older and more lauded big sister No. 5, though No. 22's aldehydes are icy, airy, and crisp. If I had one word to describe this perfume it would be refreshing. The combination of those aldehydes, all of the florals, especially the ylang-ylang, and the vanilla and vetiver at the base, is amazingly breathable and somehow never delves into the realm of sweetness - which would be easy to do and easy to expect. The fruity floral ylang-ylang note somehow comes across as citrusy; you could be excused for thinking there is an ingredient meant to reflect bergamot or lemon in No. 22 - but there isn't; an awesome and unexpected feat. It's not light in its density or projection by any means, but despite the heft it is very nimble on its feet and never crowds itself or you. It's impossible to stop going back for another refreshing and intoxicating sniff to propel you into the light-soaked clouds. If you don't love No. 22, if it doesn't make you smile with tranquil joy and lightness of being, there is something wrong with you.

Review from a couple of years ago. I get a lot of aldehydes, but they aren't super soapy. Then an abstract powdery floral heart that isn't very sweet and from which I can't pick out any particular floral note. Apparently tuberose is in there, but it's not very prominent to my nose which tends to dislike strong tuberose. No.22 smells "vintage" to me and that's not a bad thing, I like it. There is a similarity to Chanel no.5, it's similarly abstract, but No.22 sings in a higher key if you like, is softer and more light-hearted. Chillier, too. The drydown is not woody like in No.5. Amouage Dia is spicier, warmer, darker especially in the drydown. I find them all beautiful but a bit different. It's just that No. 22 lacks a bit of warmth for me. I can see it being very suited for the spring season though.

This starts out beautiful on me I smell the bright aldehydes and the creamy ylang. Then all of a sudden the jasmine starts to unfold and becomes intensely indolic, and this winds up smelling like a creamy floral covered in urine.

I'm pretty sad about this because I thought I would really love this but sometimes jasmine can be a miss on me, and this was one of those times. If you don't have that problem I recommend testing because this still has the class of a signature Chanel fragrance, I can almost reach it but my chemistry messes it all up.

Longevity is good with average sillage. It's not as strong as I would hope for this price point on a supposed Eau de Parfum, but it's not bad either.