Orchid Mantis
Extrait de Parfum, Zoologist (2025)

I like this. It is a floral-tropical forest fragrance. It is difficult to identify individual notes, but it is a blend of flowers sitting in a green forest that is tropical in essence. I don't notice any powdery smell, fortunately, which is kryptonite for me. It has quite a strong sillage and projection and will be noticed by people around you. Fortunately it is a good! smell. It is perfect for me when I walk around in my tropical garden, though I don't think it will fit in every context. To me it is a unisex fragrance.

This opens with one of the best photorealistic floral notes I’ve smelled—it’s vibrant and beautifully done. But it quickly shifts into a classic chypre structure, turning somewhat soapy and slightly vintage. The sillage carries a more modern impression with hints of those yellow florals, but up close, it's mostly green moss and white florals.

Sometimes it veers into cheap soap territory, though in certain moments I get a soft, powdery floral that's a bit more tolerable. I don’t pick up much distinct ylang ylang—if it's there, it’s subtle and blended in with the jasmine and orchid. Ylang ylang usually has a very specific, sometimes even funky quality, but that pungency isn't really here. There's a soft touch of rose and a bit of oakmoss in the base, adding a general greenness without being overly earthy.

I wouldn’t say it gives a greenhouse vibe—there are definitely better fragrances out there that evoke soil, wetness, and lush greenery. This one ends up being more about soapy florals. It’s a bit disappointing after such a strong opening. Performance is solid, and it leans feminine but could be unisex—definitely skewed toward a more mature audience. Best worn in cooler seasons since it might get cloying in the heat. If you’re into vintage or classic-style florals, this could work for you. But if you're after something cleaner or more modern, you might want to pass.

Exceedingly bright, citrus-green opening. Very impressive! The basil note adds something interesting to the mix.
Middle notes are a blend of flowers with ylang ylang and jasmine being the "loudest". Later, a powdery orchid show up.
Sweet blend of notes in the base. Green, yet earthy. Orchid and patchouli last at least 24 hours later. Four and a half stars... Oh, hell. I'll give it 5 stars.

green white floral

Orchid Mantis is the latest creation for Zoologist by perfumer Tomoo Inaba, with his other two being Nightingale and Moth.

This review is based on my initial wear and is a first impression.

OM opens fresh, green, and dewy, and then dries down to a powdery floral. The floral notes have Inaba's signature treatment, with the delicate fluffiness found in Moth and the waxy blend with the subtle fruit found in Nightingale. The main differences between OM and his other two creations are 1) the fresh green aspect, and 2) the lack of darkness in the base, which was incense and oud in Moth and prominent moss and patchouli in Nightingale. OM mostly has clean musk and a touch of moss in the base, at least on my skin.

In general, this is the most approachable of his three creations, but there is something interesting lurking inside the floral tornado. To me there is something metallic, maybe chlorophyll?

I like this green floral more than Dragonfly, but I prefer Moth and Nightingale so far. Maybe I will change my mind after more testing.