Oxford & Cambridge
Eau de Parfum, Czech & Speake (2021)

When coming to characterise the EDP version of Oxford & Cambridge, you will find all you need in Rum's existing review. The O&C cologne in particular was noted for its design in a broad-brush sense, but suffered from poor longevity. Putting out an EPD version would therefore seem to be one of the biggest open goals in reformulation history. This, and the release of the new Amber 7 (q.v.) occasioned my purchasing of a new set of C&S samples.

However, sample testing was not positive at the beginning. The performance did not seem that different to the EDC. Could it be that this open goal had been addressed by Diana Ross, 1994 World Cup vintage? (Look it up on Youtube.) Thankfully, a full bottle purchase, with the larger atomiser and more generous spraying coverage, shows that there are no missed opportunities here. There is a highly satisfying glug of lavender, mint, and rosemary, gradually making way for gentle oakmoss. Late in the day, O&C remains apparent more as a mood than as sense-datum, revealing itself when it wants to.

In short, this is exactly what one wants from the EDP version of this already well-liked composition. Wear on occasions where impeccable taste and manners are called for. More terrifically tasteful, slowly generated good design from Czech & Speake.

The 2021/2022 Oxford & Cambridge Eau de Parfum comes at a time when well-established fragrances are being released in a new concentration (EdP, Parfum) for no apparent reason other than marketing, at the expense of the scent being 'tweaked' - something us fragrance freaks find quite insulting.

Fortunately with Czech & Speake, this is not the case. Their existing "Cologne" concentrations suffered at the hands of regulation, with some being weakened or diluted. The result is the overall scent deviating from its original formulation. The current Eau de Parfum revolution at C&S began with its signature No. 88 fragrance, which - to everyone's surprise - matched the original No. 88 accord much more closely. This has now been followed by Oxford & Cambridge and Cuba.

The modern version of Oxford & Cambridge cologne suffered from poor longevity/projection and its dry down did not feel quite right. Despite being one of the nicest herbal lavender fragrances currently on the market (dare I say a benchmark lavender fragrance) and having a genuinely calming and soothing nature, some may have hesitated to get a bottle.

The new Eau de Parfum, however, has once again turned the tide and the result is a fragrance that remains true to its original accord, subtle and (thankfully) does not vanish after 30 minutes. Most importantly, the dry down (which is the part most will end up smelling) is much more pleasant, woody, yet herbaceous, with the lavender accord sitting nicely on top. In keeping with the overall theme of this lavender concoction, projection is moderate but not monstrous as some might expect.

The progression of the Eau de Parfum is no different to its Cologne counterpart; it opens with some mint and rosemary, somewhat camphorous, but quite herbaceous before the lavenders kick in. The overall scent is supported by a delicate oakmoss, which is ever so slightly sweetened, but is by no means thick or syrupy.

Ultimately, this is a scent that you wear to stay close to you and in any season apart from in the extreme cold. There's nothing 'dressy' or fancy about it, but I suppose it can come across as sporty. It's very laid-back though and will work equally well in smart-casual wear or your typical jeans and t-shirt.

One final point. Given how calming this scent is, it's one of the best to put on when you are not sure what to wear, if you're having trouble sleeping, going through a period of stress, or are just not feeling well. Totally inoffensive and unobtrusive. Attention seekers need not apply.