Primo
Eau de Parfum, Trussardi (2024)

Trussardi Primo Eau de Parfum, with its fiery rocky soul, is definitely a brand new approach to modern perfumery by Trussardi and represents a brand new modern vest for the perfumery-section of the Milanese Maison. Trussardi Primo was launched in 2024 (the nose behind Violaine Collas - Amouage, Armani, Milano Fragranze, Atckinsons, etc.) and it is in my opinion a darkly mineral-sugary-aromatic-peppery chypré for man (with aromatic fougére and semi-oriental elements in its formula). This fragrance unfolds and recalls far mineral, leathery, resinous, coniferous, woodsy echoes of creations a la Micallef Red Colorado (2023), Prada Luna Rossa Carbon (2017), Davidoff Hot Water (2009), Gucci Pour Homme (2003) and Boss The Scent Elixir (2024), the former somewhat like ideally combined together (being Primo ideally like a sort of modern dusty sugary Durbano Black Tourmaline 2007 without the smoky-liturgic approach). "Primo" is probably a word on behalf of primordial by reason of the wild arcane nature of the message behind and of the perfume-formula itself. The note of maple sap (with its coniferous-resinous-honeyed taste and combined with tonka beans, mineral, aromatic and woodsy notes) is the real protagonist of the perfumed affair with its sugary dusty mineral molecular aura. Pimento on the other side provides a sort of counteracting "humid-liquid" cardamomish effect with refreshing vibes from lavender while minerals shape a general rocky molecular wild atmosphere all around. Finally earth, rocks, crystals and vague salty molecules from a stormy sea mingle together in order to appoint this fiery wave "straight from the volcanic primitive islands". Along dry down I detect kind of dusty mild pencil shavings/woodsy resinous nuances a la Gucci Pour Homme (2003) or Bottega Veneta Pour Homme (2013) but even in a more mineral stormy way. At the very end tonka bean grows up more concretely so enhancing a sheer nutty chocolatey tone and a more gentle background. This fragrance, due to its innovative pyramid, is definitely a courageous and pioneering tribute to a intimistic, minimal, resilient idea of masculinity from a new era and probably a Trussardi's brand new message to a new age brave imagine of a man. Performances are more than stout and projecting on my skin.

Nice scent, zero lasting power, minimal projection. Don't think it's very unique, it follows the current westernized oriental trend. Not worth full retail. Still waiting for Trussardi to come up with something worthy, original, and highly enjoyable.