Opus XIII : Silver Oud
Eau de Parfum, Amouage (2021)

This is probably my personal favorite oud out of everything I've tried so far, including stuff from Bortnikoff and Areej Le Dore, because while it's technically not as complex or as high of quality as some of the more artisanal, limited releases, it's still an authentic oud scent with lots of depth, and I actually enjoy wearing it in public, it satisfies my cravings for animalic oud but it fills me with confidence rather than making me self conscious.

As a matter of fact, I don't think I've ever encountered a scent that is as good at including the raw, challenging aspects of oud while remaining civilized and presentable, that doesn't go down the cliched route of rose, oud & saffron. Silver Oud is not that, there's neither rose nor saffron. The Oud doesn’t hide, it’s the star of the show, it’s merely accompanied by the other notes as it gradually reveals its different facets.

The opening is indeed a challenging, untamed barnyard oud, smells a bit like fertilizer, but it's not the most extreme I've ever come across.
This stage is brief but intense and it actually smells much cleaner in the air than up close, especially after a few minutes.

As it settles down, it unfolds into a deep, charred, mineralic, woody, musky scent with a gentle touch of vanilla, and at certain points, confusingly, it reminds me of roasted marshmallows. If I really try to pick it apart I can detect something that reminds me of the licorice note from Royal Tobacco.
Most natural Oud scents I’ve tried tend not to have particularly strong projection, but this is an Amouage, so fittingly, it’s ridiculously strong, and even a single spray goes a very long way, so proceed with caution.

If you like oud, then this is hard not to recommend.

Here's the deal with Opus XIII Silver Oud: you better love oud, for all of its beauty and also its funkiness, and you better love leather the same way. OXIIISO opens with the oud notes that many wish did not exist, that cherry cough syrup accord - sickly, cloying, turned cherry fruit, chemicals and alcohol, and a medicinal camphoraceous note. I love it, but be warned, it's powerful. Once these notes calm down an earthy patchouli becomes more noticeable. After about 1.5-2hrs, the woody notes of oud and cedar take a more active role but the star is a smokey and animalic leather (birch tar and castoreum). It really is that simple, folks, I don't have much more to say other than my final impressions. Firstly, there can be no doubt that Amouage can consistently be relied upon to use top-tier materials and OXIIISO is no exception. Though I'm sure there are a few synthetics in this perfume, at no point did I ever think I was smelling anything synthetic; it is very convincingly natural-smelling and very convincingly of the highest quality. Every accord is rich, smooth and well rounded, and powerful. Finally, though, I must say I'm disappointed. This doesn't live up to the vision of the Opus line. This isn't an Opus, to the dictionary definition of the word nor to Amouage's original intent for this line, it's just a "quite good" oud-leather perfume. It doesn't shake me, it doesn't compel me, it doesn't move me, it doesn't surprise me, it doesn't make me weak at the knees, it doesn't... well... it doesn't do much of anything for me. For a perfume of this price, with the name Amouage, and line-name of Opus, it falls short. This would make a lot more sense in Amouage's Main Collection for a considerable drop in price - at which point I would say that, yes, if I was in need of a big, natural smelling, Arabian oud-leather perfume, I would have to seriously consider OXIIISO over most other oud-leather perfumes. But it's not in the Main Collection, it's an Opus, and very seriously expensive. There are many perfumes out there that will accomplish the same goal at a much lower price. "But I want an Amouage-style oud leather..... Oh wait, I have Interlude, which has a lot more interesting things going on and is just a much better perfume overall. Oh wait, my bottle of Aoud Cuir d'Arabie just caught my eye too."

From Amouage:

"A protruding depth of Patchouli (molecular distillation) and smoky Cypriol (essence) confuses the senses. Instead of a top note, a wide variety of woods appear, foreboding a deep evolution. An exquisitely rich Oud Assam (essence) dances in unison with a leathery Madagascar Vanilla (absolute), while Ambrarome, birch, castoreum and Guiac Wood leave dark sillage imprints on the skin, blending in an endless finale."

To me its a nice smelling thing that's somewhat addicting. The opening is a bit harsh but only for a minute. Otherwise its a scratchy patchouli with smoky Cypriol. Soon an almost rubbery oud note appears which is sweetened ever so slightly by an unlisted berry-like note. Raspberry?
Vanilla comes to play but it isn't overbearing and blends well with the overall vibe. The patchouli is at times chocolatey but this is no gourmand.
Performance is dynamite in the longevity department and just fine sillage-wise.
This is top tier Amouage.

The burnt birch note reminds me of Tauer Lonestar Memories, but while Lonestar Memories is strident and repulsive to some, Silver Oud is perfectly composed while still displaying the powerful complexity of smoke and oud. Great scent, I kept smelling my wrists over the day - and exceptional longevity, as it was still present the next morning. I'm not going to buy a $500 bottle but a few 2 ml samples might be a good option at comparable price per ml !

To me this is a masterpiece

On my skin - the opening has a dark smoky incense, with a touch of sweetness that my wife described as "burnt marshmallow". You get not-so-little hints of oud in the most fantastic ways, reminds me of some of the pure oud oil samples I have. There is an animalic warmth that I think might be castoreum, as there is a similarity with some materials in TF Oud Wood Intense which I believe heavily relies on this ingredient.

The longevity is INSANE - this stuff is like glue, it lasts through showers and sweaty workouts, very strong juice with high performance / sillage, however I would expect absolutely nothing less for the price tag.

Cecile Zarokian stans unite! Great stuff!