Spicebomb Extreme
Viktor & Rolf (2015)

Varanis summed it up perfectly: this isn’t a more intense take on the original, just a smoother and more refined one. If you already own the original, it might feel a bit redundant, but if you don’t, this could easily be the one to go for. The performance is solid, and honestly, it’s one of the better designer releases out there. Nothing comes across rough or overly synthetic. A niche house could’ve released this and priced it higher without raising eyebrows.

I’ve smelled a lot of fragrances at this point, and the Spicebomb DNA still feels unique. This version basically polishes the original and takes it to its best form. Yes, the genre is crowded—Oajan, Ambre Narguilé, Tom Ford Noir Extreme—but Spicebomb still keeps its own identity.

I tried this early in my fragrance journey and dismissed it, but coming back to it now, I appreciate it a lot more. My only challenge is figuring out where it fits in my collection since I already have Noir Extreme Parfum, and I’m eyeing Honey Aoud from Montale for that cinnamon craving. If you don’t love heavy cinnamon in this style of fragrance, this one could be perfect—it’s balanced nicely with tobacco and vanilla and never gets overwhelming. It’s also not as thick or dense as Tobacco Vanille, but it still holds its own. Overall, performance is good, and if you’re getting into fragrances, this is a great one to have in your lineup.

Unlike the original, which is far spicier and more lively, the Extreme version is warmer, more rounded, understated, moderate, and mature. Having both the original Spicebomb and Extreme is not a mistake.

Both fragrances are for winter and evenings but not for the same occasions.

When to rock the original V&R Spicebomb: Winter and evenings. Hanging out, wandering around the city outdoors, clubbing, city holiday events. When not to rock it: Office, important meetings, whether private or business, school, or university.

When to wear V&R Spicebomb Extreme: Winter and evenings. Dinner parties, movie dates with your significant other, dinner, house parties with more mature guests, church, visiting her parents (phew). When not to wear it: Professional settings or anything related to work, school or university.

In short, Spicebomb Extreme is simply more mature. It doesn't have the dominating notes of paprika and pink pepper as in the original. Also in the original version, the vetiver is evident. There's no explosion of citrus in the opening burst. The notes of tobacco, vanilla, and bourbon add more warmth to the overall fragrance, while saffron still lifts it to keep it at least slightly sharp.

Originality: 7/10
Scent: 9/10
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 7/10
___________________________
Subjectively 8/10
Objectively 9/10

Recipe: “Spiced Saffron Vanilla Cake”

Ingredients: Spicebomb Extreme

If I was a barista who worked the espresso bar at an overpriced bakery in a gentrified mid-city downtown district area then this would be my signature scent.

2 / 5 stars

It smells like root beer and coca cola poured over a pipe that smoked vanilla-scented tobacco. It smells decent but it's not something I'd want as a personal fragrance because it would turn heads in a bad way.

Olivier Polge delivered Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf (2012) unto the men's designer fragrance market to replace the failed Antidote by Viktor & Rolf (2016) as one of his final acts before leaving Givaudan to take over at Chanel, and the cuncompromisingly peppery tobacco that was this scent made huge waves. With Polge no longer available to perfume flankers to the line, several other Givaudan perfumers initially stepped in to try and replicate Spicebomb's success with flankers that were cut close to the original cloth. Spicebomb Fresh by Viktor & Rolf (2014) was first and "bombed", making it a pricey discontinued unicorn these days, while Spicebomb Extreme by Viktor & Rolf (2015) seemed to deliver what guys wanted from the original: more smoothness and sweetness for increased sex appeal. We all know that many guys outside the "FragComm" buy perfumes to get laid or impress a rival in the workplace; it's no secret nor shame as there are literally men's fragrances going back half a century with names like Jovan Sex Appeal (1976) and One Man Show by Jacques Bogart (1980), and to that effect designers or mass market perfume brands are painfully aware that no matter how artistic or pragmatically all-purpose they try to make a fragrance for the "typical guy", they need to consider the sexual conquest or social climbing aspirations of the average Western male buyer. The original Spicebomb, for all its shock an awe, was ill-suited and not congenial enough, so now we get Spicebomb Extreme.

Whoever perfumed this stuff understood the assignment, smoothing out the harsh wrinkles of the black and pink pepper overdoses that defined the original pillar. The tobacco is still very much a part of the DNA, while the drier woody and leathery bits are gone, and on paper Spicebomb Extreme is about 80% the same, to the point of feeling redundant to those who do not "weaponize" their fragrance as a "come hither" tool for the dating scene. Those who do will clearly prefer Spicebomb Extreme over Spicebomb proper, as it opens immediately with more lavender and an almond-like note seemingly ripped from Gucci Rush for Men (2000) and Azzaro Visit (2003), perhaps even Parfums de Marly Pegasus (2011). This sweetens and smooths the peppery aspects, as just a touch of nutmeg and cumin add a rounder, thicker body to the heart. Clove is here too but not in heaps, while the tonka-lead tobacco is bolstered by added vanilla to boot. In the base is the same woody-amber melange that defined the dry-down of Spicebomb, with any discernable leather note being excised. As a result, Spicebomb Extreme really is not more extreme, but rather friendlier and indeed better for romantic liasons or cold weather nights. Still, your prospects better be into spicy fragrances because this one is still very much a "spice bomb" otherwise. Performance is long and eau de parfum concentration curbs sheer projection some in favor of longevity on skin.

I personally have no need for any more fragrances like this in my collection, and most of what I consider intimate and romantic for my purposes as a gay man over 40 with particular tastes would be seen as funky, rude, dated, or tacky because of all the animal musk notes and swirls of rose, patchouli, fruit, tannery leather, and jasmine indole many of my romantic evening favorites contain. Once things like Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men (2008) and Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme (2009) became the gold standard among the general male populace for date night, I took my check and left the restaurant, but I can still very much appreciate quality when I see it. Therefore, Spicebomb Extreme is wonderfully well-done and indeed more interesting than most things in its vein. For my dollar, I'd revert to L'Occitane Eau des Baux (2006), which was doing the vanilla tobacco pepper thing long before anyone else, and even had its thunder stolen unfairly by Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (2007), but I see zero fault in choosing a fine variation on the theme as Spicebomb Extreme happens to be. My only concern would be finding this scent at a decent discount, as it seems these days that designer fragrances online are getting less and less markdown from major discounters, while their shipping times take longer and longer, completely negating the point of shopping with them. Time equals money and if you're going to wait two weeks just to save twenty dollars, you might as well just pick it up at retail and have it in hand. Thumbs up

Extreme here means: remove all the citruses from the original, and punch up the woods in addition to the spices. Works well, but misses some of the delicateness of the original. It's like more bass was added and the treble dialed down.